you have a bathroom atm??? ... lol using the common names.. limits us to guessing.. but presuming it is an amaryllis ... if you trim the leaves you will kill it ... it flowers directly from the bulb ... with barely no leaves ... and when the flower is spent .. it grows the leaves.. to store food for the next flower show mine in MI is on the bakers rack in a south window ... it just bloomed.. and it will sit there with its ugly leaves until next feb.. when it will bloom again.. as an indoor bulb.. i tend to keep it VERY dry .. if in fact i water it at all all summer ... usually thinking it dead ... i think it would prefer the direct sun thru the window.. more than the bathroom atrium [???] under lights ... if you have that option ... a good sign of lack of proper light.. is the failure to produce a flower.. but whether that is your lights.. or the prior owners neglect.. we will not know .. but lets blame them.. lol ... as it did not store enough energy last year.. to produce the flower this year ... it could also be put outside in very bright shade for summer ... frankly.. for the one week flower.. it really isnt worthwhile to fool with .. but grandpa gave it to one of the g-kids.. so what can i do ... in other words .... its simpler to buy it as a live bouquet.. and throw it out after its done ... unless you simply like the challenge ... and that is on the approved list ... just dont expect much of it for the 51 weeks it isnt in bloom ... it aint gunna be pretty ... ken Here is a link that might be useful: google brought up this reference

Add me to the list of frustrated OTR microwave owners. I had to laugh/wince when I read the above comment by a fellow GE owner that theirs "doesnt even have enough bottom suction to hold a piece of paper up against the bottom intake vents," because that's exactly the experiment I've done. Mine is set to vent to the outside too (in a condo) rather than recirculate, which is ultimately just a giant waste of the cabinet above my microwave. Mine's a GE Profile PVM9195SFSS with a 400 CFM blower and a "Boost" mode. Boiling a pot of water results in nearly all of the steam going straight up, with some of it condensing on the front of the microwave and the rest going toward the ceiling. A friend of mine with a GE had her front control panel go out, and the technician said that's a common problem due to...yep, you guessed it. Condensation. For a truly miserable experience, anything seasoned with a little oil on a skillet spreads noxious fumes throughout my condo. The whole place stays hazy for half an hour or more. One trick I've learned that helps just a little bit is to open the microwave door when venting. More steam gets sucked INTO the microwave and then up and out than ever gets sucked up from the underside. I have an extended warranty, and I've thought about calling a repair technician, but based on what you all have said, that sounds like a waste. When I had a small dishwasher issue, the technician ended up doing more damage the first time than he fixed, so I'm wary.

"Desert grasses" are prairie grasses like western wheatgrass, canary wheatgrass, and blue grama. Here's a picture of such a lawn taken by bpgreen of his lawn in Salt Lake City. He also added some strawberry clover in his seed mix, so those clovers are not a weed in this case. The choice of wheatgrasses should be made on which ones thrive in your area, but your area is much the same as his area, so those should be good for you. He starts to water some time in July and waters once a month. These grasses are all bunch type grasses so they must be reseeded every fall (August for you) to make them become more dense. He seeded (and reseeded every year) right into his Kentucky bluegrass lawn. About the only drawback for prairie grasses is the formation of shaggy looking seed heads every month. He mows once a month to keep the seed heads down.

Yeah, I can already hear the excuse coming because if I didn't know what happened, I would have pronounced it dormant. due to the location and visual from a distance. Unfortunately, proving that will be almost impossible. Most herbicides can and will burn the lawn if the temperature is above 80-85 when applied and in sunlight (and blanket spraying is not recommended at any time unless the problem is also very wide-spread). You know that now...they should have known that, but, as Sherry noted, they had a timeline and probably a boat payment to make. Spot spraying herbicides later in the evening can be OK if you know your lawn is up to it. But that's only true on established lawns, is very herbicide-dependent, and not something I'd do over a wider area. I did it on my own a few days ago in two tiny areas of less than a square foot to remove a piece of nutsedge and a tiny bit of creeping Charlie that had gotten started in a dormant bit, but I was very careful not to overspray and I was using an herbicide that's not particularly known to cause damage even in heat. The good news. Some of that is going to recover because it's top burn. The blade and crown burned, but from the before shot, the grass very clearly has lots and lots of carbohydrates stored in the roots to use to regrow the crown and blade. That does take a lot of energy, and some time, but keep that watered and it should work. The bad news: These idiots managed to hit this at, quite literally, the worst possible moment on the calendar when carbohydrate reserves in the roots are at their lowest point, so some of it is NOT going to recover. I can't see the grass type at this distance (and I'm pretty visually disabled so have trouble with plant ID even up close sometimes unless the color stands out), but hopefully at least some of it is Kentucky bluegrass. Bluegrass spreads when well-fed, so your Labor Day feeding will encourage that to fill right back in. First, fire them. Or restrict their care to mowing it if they do that. Taking over your own care is very easy if they won't do it right. Second, water. Keep the soil damp to moist for a week or so in the burned area to see where you are, if rainfall doesn't do it. Just moist, not wet or soaked or squishy or puddled or... This is the one case where I'm actually going to recommend shorter, frequent watering. Thirty minutes, every other day? If it works to keep it damp, sure. But just for a week--we do not want to set off a fungal infection in that yet and the lawn is stressed. Cut it off dead after that and resume weekly watering unless... Third, seed. If you're really not seeing recovery when you spread the dead stuff and look down, you might want to reseed. Normally I'd give it longer, but you're on the clock here, and Labor Day is really the outside acceptable date for reseeding (you could re-sod that area much later, however--out to about September 20th or so). If it comes down to that, get back to us. There's a whole rigmarole for that. And for general lawn care if you choose to do it yourself--it's pretty easy--or just dictate what they're going to do in the future (which they usually will disobey because...hey--boat payment). Watering: Weekly, deeply, if rainfall isn't doing it, a full inch at a time in most soils, but there are some exceptions, a very few. That's the general rule, although during very hot periods, you can certainly nudge that down to every 5 days or so and I won't argue. (How do I do it personally? I don't water. My bluegrass lawn is allowed to go dormant and return when rainfall returns, but it's fully mature and healthy enough that this is not a problem). Feeding: Four times yearly (three can be acceptable). Memorial Day, Labor Day, October first, and when the last mow of the year is done, give or take some. The first three can be organic or synthetic, the last has to be synthetic. Either one of the last two is optional as long as the other is done, so a very cold year may end in October, or a year where you're not sure may end with delaying October's feeding but doing the shutdown feeding later in October or early November. For Maryland (and up here in PA), both can almost always get done as even December features green grass these last three decades. Weed and Feed: Never. It does neither job well as the appropriate weeding time is not the correct feeding time. Spot spray weeds, if any, as they appear. Try not to apply synthetic feeding to a damp lawn as it can burn the lawn--which is how Weed and Feed is supposed to be applied. Really, once established and healthy, lawns are mostly butt work. You sit and look at it because it mostly does its own thing. Those two weeds are the only two I've sprayed all summer, and they're only there because the lawn is partially dormant and rains just resumed. If I'd ignored them, the sedge would have grown, but the Charlie would get choked out.