You're pH of 7.6 really isn't too bad for most vegetables but a downward adjustment would increase nutrient availability and, most likely, yield. I would add sulfur prior to the next cropping cycle. I would do about 15 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. tilled to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. That will adjust your pH downward over time and it will happen pretty dang slowly. Remember that lime buffers against that change and since you have a lot of it, you're soil is strongly buffered. Clay is another thing that will buffer against pH changes and if you have a clay soil, that will also work against your downward pH adjustment. Another test next year to see where you're at would be in order. For nitrogen, as mentioned above, blood meal would be a good choice. 10 to 15 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. tilled to the same depth should be about right for new plants. If you're looking for one material that that will provide nitrogen while acidifying, blood meal will do virtually nothing, particularly considering your buffering capacity. You would have to move to synthetics to do what you have in mind. Two options would be ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) and sulfur coated urea, which is usually around (40-0-0). Ammonium sulfate = fast release, sulfur coated urea = slow release. Good rates would be 7 lbs. and 5 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft., respectively. Both of those would also give your sulfur level a little boost as well. But be aware that the pH change would rely on regular re-application of those acidifying fertilizers over a very loooooong time (again, buffer). The sulfur really would be a better route for you. On a side note, as your instincts have already told you, BER is not always due to low calcium in the soil. Un-even watering (too wet, followed by too dry, repeat) is usually what leads to the problem. Yes, it's a calcium deficiency in the tissue but variances in water availability to the plant plays a major role in the uptake of that nutrient.

I got my soil results this morning. Of course I just fertilized yesterday with 47-0-0. Should I go with something like 0-0-28 or 0-0-50 from Lesco? By my math 12.5 lbs of 8-0-24/1000 sq ft would be 3lbs of K/1000 sq ft. Is it OK to apply that much K at one time or should I spread out it's application?

A pH of 6.85 means you have a slightly acidic soil. It is considered ideal for most plants. At a pH of 6.85 your plants will be able to absorb the above minerals as they need them. You need a balanced fertilizer of nitrogen for healthy green leaves, phosphates for root development and potash for strong stalks. Bagged fertilizers will have the (N-nitogen, P-phosphate and K-potash) information included.

Sharon, Normally everything in clay is high because clay is high in minerals. At least you have a pretty decent soil pH. I think most state labs mainly just test for N-P-K and soil pH on the basic soil test. Were you wrong to expect more for $10? Probably, because (unfortunately) $10 doesn't buy you much any more. To get a soil tilth analysis you have to use someone like the private soil lab in Edinburgh, Texas and you have to be willing to pay for it. To understand the tilth and texture of my soil in various parts of our property, I just used the jar soil test when we finished building the house and moved here. I already knew that only the soil in our woodland had adequate organic matter, so didn't even really need the jar soil test to tell me that, but I used it to help me understand what percentage of our soil was clay, sand, and silt. The soil on our property varied a great deal from one area to another with very little uniformity, so I did a separate soil jar test in each area so I could understand the challenges of planting in the back yard (which had a clayey-sandy blend) versus the front and side yards (extremely dense red clay from which you could make clay flower pots) versus the veggie garden area (sandy-silty along one edge, then sandy-clayey from there down to the middle of the garden, and dense clay for the remaining half of the garden. After that,I then knew what plants would tolerate the soil in each area of the yard based on their adaptability to heavy clay versus sand/silt with little clay, and also knew which parts of the garden had the worst soil and needed the most amendment. If I had followed standard soil testing procedures and dug up soil from the various areas, mixed it together I wouldn't have learned much about the tilth in my various areas because I would have mixed it all up together. I think the best way to understand the tilth/texture in a specific area is to do the jar soil test. If your soil is uniform on your property, one jar test is all you need, but I don't really know how a person would know if their soil was uniformly the same without doing a jar soil test from several different areas just to establish that. In our sandy/silty area I couldn't keep anything alive in the drought of 2003 because I hadn't added enough organic matter to that area and it just wouldn't hold enough moisture even with heavy irrigation. Because I had been amending that soil for 4 years before the drought of 2003, it was disheartening to feel like 4 years of soil improvement hadn't helped much. We've been here 14 years now, and that area did much better in the droughts of 2011 and 2012, but I still feel like it doesn't have enough organic matter, and maybe it never will, though it is not for lack of trying on my part. Understanding the soil you have in a specific part of your yard or garden can be very difficult if that area differs from the other areas you have planted. With highly variable soil like mine, it drives me crazy. Ultimately, though, the lesson I have taken from trying to grow stuff here is that you have to add organic matter all the time. I don't mean that you have to rototill it into the soil---just piling OM on top of the ground inproves it over time. I decided a long time ago to follow Mother Nature's Lead. How does she build soil? By letting organic matter fall to the ground, pile up, and decompose---no rototilling to dig it in, etc. When I walk down into our woodland, which has an estimated age of 60-80 years, depending on who you talk to here and what they remember about how this land was farmed, the first 8 or so inches of soil are black, humusy and rich. Down beneath? Same old red clay in some areas and silty/sandy soil in others. How did that black, rich, humusy soil get there? Just from organic matter decaying there over the decades. Did your soil test address your Cation Exchange Capacity at all? It might have been abbreviated as C.E.C. That usually is included in soil tests, though I haven't had a lab soil test in many years so don't know if they still tell you the C.E.C. on the basic test or not. C.E.C. is one bit of info from soil testing that I find helpful. A lab like the private soil testing lab in Edinburgh, Texas, can do many kinds of tests, including testing one's soil for heavy metals, boron, etc. but it is not an inexpensive process, and the more testing that is done, the higher the fee. As a landowner who is not a farmer, I probably wouldn't spend this kind of money on a soil test unless I had problems I couldn't solve on my own without such a test. The kind of testing they do is aimed more at folks who farm. If I had extremely sandy soil, I might find I needed that more complicated and expensive testing because it is very hard to turn almost pure sand (I am not talking about sandy loam, but about sugar sand and the like) into fertile sandy loam. Because you have to do heroic amounts of soil amending to fix sugar sand, the in-depth testing from private soil labs could be very helpful. The best thing you can do for any soil is to continually add organic matter to it year in and year out, and to not overfeed it with nutrients that can build up in your soil. Too much of one nutrient, for example, can interfere with plants' ability to take up and use other nutrients. Also, I think that everyone tends to focus on N-P-K too much, and often people don't think about the micronutrients. If you're adding lots of organic matter, you'll have the micronutrients in the right proportions. However, in the early years while still improving the soil, I use lots of Espoma organic fertilizers because they do include the micronutrients. I still use them after the soil is highly improved, but at lower rates. Crape myrtles, by the way, generally do well in clay. Just by piling on compost and bark mulch year after year, you will be putting enough organic matter on the ground around the crape myrtles to keep them happy. I grew beautiful crape myrtles in Texas black gumbo clay and never did one thing to the soil. The crape myrtles only got nitrogen fertilizer when we fed the yard anually with a pelleted nitrogen-only soil fertilizer. Over the years, the mulch will decompose and earthworms and other little critters, as well as rainfall, will carry the nutrients from your mulch/compost down into the soil. Hope this helps, Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Soil Jar Test for Texture