You're pH of 7.6 really isn't too bad for most vegetables but a downward adjustment would increase nutrient availability and, most likely, yield. I would add sulfur prior to the next cropping cycle. I would do about 15 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. tilled to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. That will adjust your pH downward over time and it will happen pretty dang slowly. Remember that lime buffers against that change and since you have a lot of it, you're soil is strongly buffered. Clay is another thing that will buffer against pH changes and if you have a clay soil, that will also work against your downward pH adjustment. Another test next year to see where you're at would be in order. For nitrogen, as mentioned above, blood meal would be a good choice. 10 to 15 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. tilled to the same depth should be about right for new plants. If you're looking for one material that that will provide nitrogen while acidifying, blood meal will do virtually nothing, particularly considering your buffering capacity. You would have to move to synthetics to do what you have in mind. Two options would be ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) and sulfur coated urea, which is usually around (40-0-0). Ammonium sulfate = fast release, sulfur coated urea = slow release. Good rates would be 7 lbs. and 5 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft., respectively. Both of those would also give your sulfur level a little boost as well. But be aware that the pH change would rely on regular re-application of those acidifying fertilizers over a very loooooong time (again, buffer). The sulfur really would be a better route for you. On a side note, as your instincts have already told you, BER is not always due to low calcium in the soil. Un-even watering (too wet, followed by too dry, repeat) is usually what leads to the problem. Yes, it's a calcium deficiency in the tissue but variances in water availability to the plant plays a major role in the uptake of that nutrient.

aipa, I'm sorry - I made an error in wording my post, as evidenced by your reply. To (some) lasagna "purists", it would not be a 'true' bed without paper (in some form) - even though layer-type of bed-making has been done for thousands of years (terra preta is a very old example) without paper per se. But to purists, I also apologize in advance, for any misunderstanding. I did not mean to imply that paper was not recommended at all - just don't completely block essential under-plant drainage, and blueberry roots from easily penetrating the paper. Remember that your clay soil does not drain well to begin with. These are common 'issues' with lasagna beds made by folks who do not research the technique adequately for the plants they intend to grow in such bed. Although blueberry roots are fairly shallow (in relation to the mature height of the plant), they still need VERY good drainage, and the roots will need to anchor into the soil below the lasagna bed for stability on windy days. Your light-weight bed mix is not going to offer a lot of support - and should ask about staking the plants initially? Paper is good. BUT in this case... In the 'style' of lasagna bed I'm referring to, the paper is not laid in traditional thick layers (to block growth penetration from under the paper Long-Term), but rather it should be finely-shredded first, to deter growth from underneath while allowing plant roots above to more easily work their way down through the matted paper layer(s). (yeah, I know - but I'm just an 'unconventional' kind of guy...I actually check stuff like that). The paper layers kill grass by suffocation and lack of photosynthesis, and IMO the paper layers have served their purpose when the grass is dead, which does not usually take all that long. Not much nutrition in paper for plants, but microbes love it. Blueberry roots are probably stronger than your grass - unless you have bermudagrass (or the like). I have bermudagrass that can penetrate 1" cinderblock or a full Sunday paper in a few weeks). If you have 'strong' grass - solarize (black plastic) first - or consider the use of a carefully-applied (paint brush) herbicide. If you don't do chemical herbicides, organic ones are available too (more research).' I recommend application of elemental sulfur before you begin building the bed with paper. Sulfur does take time...And the more you 'work it down' into your clay soil, the better. If you don't herbicide or solarize the grass - for just the size bed you're considering - I'd take a hoe to the grass first. Take out all you can (you can't get it all). Either way, then apply sulfur, OM and very coarse (river) sand, then till it all under. Since this is for shallow-rooted blueberries, not worth the effort to double-dig, but just make sure that the entire raised bed has sloped drainage. Trench rainwater water away from the bed if needed. Then - paper away, but shred the paper as best you can first. If finely shredded, standard thicker layering. If coarsly shredded, make more, and thinner layers, with OM between the layers. Plant after last frost in spring. After your lasagna bed is completed of course - and let it 'settle' for at least two weeks before you place a containerized plant - and watch soil height - don't allow roots to become exposed. And if it were me, I'd mulch the plants with 2"-3" of well-dried lawn grass clippings. Your clay pH is 'OK' down deep. Not as low-pH as it "should" be for "optimum" growth - but not that far off, either. With only a few plants, you will be able to give them special care (foliar sprays - more research). But whether your peat/sand-based lasagna bed material is going to be purchased as a mix, or 'made from scratch', you should test (litmus strip; or pool test kit; etc.) the 'soil' pH as you build the bed to ensure 5.0 pH or lower if you want a good first crop after the 2nd year. If you buy bagged mix that states a low pH - don't trust it. Takes only a few minutes to test it. Find out. Add more elemental sulfur if needed (wheelbarrow/hoe). If you make you own mix - test every wheelbarrow batch. Remember to water the ground, and layers of shredded paper before putting anything on top of each paper layer. If possible, use a pump-up sprayer (coarse spray) with a filtered (paper coffee filter is OK), well-mixed (paint sprayer & electric drill) solution of sulfur with water (that was previously pH-adjusted (pH Down) to 4.0 BEFORE sulfur was mixed-in. Then you will have given your blueberry plants the 'best shot' for their future in underlying clay soil. Robert

You had posted the five home tests awhile back, and I did those. One of those was worms. The news isn't good, although they aren't non existent. Sadly, when I was digging the soil for my testing, I think I came across a total of four worms. I only had to actually pick one out of the buckets of collected soil. I dug several shovel fulls out, then did a slice, per each test. So about 15 or so digs...I think four worms. My compost bin is right next to the veg garden, and in early March, I planted my lettuce/spinach/greens right next to it (because it gives shade). As I worked that little patch of soil with my fork, that soil was LOADED with worms. Either they were enjoying some goodies that were leeching out of the bin, or the bin was full and they were going back and forth. I remember posting about another one of the home tests, and that was smell...my soil had NO smell, good or bad. The other tests were okay, the tilth and the drainage.

"just me 6" ... I agree with Kimmsr that you want to get the lime in there to start working, BUT I don't know that I think doing so before the builder levels things out makes sense. I just picture you distributing the lime well across the top of the soil, and the bulldozer coming and scraping the top 3 inches away here and filling in a dip there ... resulting in a really uneven distribution of the lime. If I were you I'd wait. If I read you right, we're just talking about waiting until Tuesday or Wednesday; I think waiting a few days is worthwhile to increase the chances you get your lime distributed pretty evenly. As to improving your "nasty sticky clay soil" ... lime will fix the pH, but I don't think it will affect the texture. You want better "tilth" ... not sure if a search on that word here will bring up articles that will help. Adding lots of organic material is the single best way to improve your tilth, for a variety of reasons. First, just mechanically, having lots of bits of organic stuff in between the sticky bits separates them and lets air and water in. Next, the soil beasties that are going to eat that organic stuff will, in the process, glue some of the clay particles together into aggregates (bigger bits), which tend to permit air and water to penetrate around/between them. Do you have a source of free municipal mulch? By that, I mean ground up leaves that a nearby city collected in the fall, let sit over the winter, and puts out for you to take the following year? That can be good stuff or it can be garbage-y. I have a couple of cities around me to choose from, and have a clear preference for one over another.... Alternately, if you're willing and able to spend, get a truckload of compost from a local nursery. Go there first to see what they'll sell you. My nursery sells it for $35/yard, and they're selling pretty nice stuff (ground a lot finer than the municipal free stuff, looks more decomposed, maybe is in a more managed pile over the winter?). Till it in to your soil after the builder and before you first plant. Then add more to the perennial beds. And keep adding more to any plants that can be mulched (nearly everything except grass) forever more. (Wood and bark mulches last longer, but ground up leaves feed the soil better.) By the way, don't let anyone sell you topsoil. You have plenty of the mineral component of soil already. You want more of the organic component, and that's the only part it makes any sense to pay anyone to haul to you. Don't let them talk you into a mix of compost and topsoil either ... that would be better for their profit, but not better for you. (UNLESS you have a shallow area you want to fill ... but then, the builder should fix that, right?) I know, I'm not giving a lot of advice on the soil test. But you asked how to make sticky clay better, and in my flower beds, compost and leaf mulch are what does it. - LCPW p.s. On the "posey power" ... hard to say without knowing what it is, and some facts about what KIND of clay you have. I have learned here that one kind of clay actually can be broken up well by a chemical additive that nurseries sell. But many many folks have asked about it and knowledgeable folks here have said, "you're in a part of the country with clay that won't be helped by that in the least". I'd say don't do it until you know more.