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Pre-emergent for new seed lawn

16 years ago

Hi,

I am planting a 4000 sf seed lawn here in San Jose, CA. I have tilled in 10 yards each of coarse sand, chicken manure and redwood compost to loosen the adobe clay soil.

I am planning on seeding it with dwarf tall fescue, and think it would be wise to use a pre-emergent to prevent the weed seed sure to be present in the soil from overtaking the new grass growth.

I have read that siduron (trade name Tupersan) is about the only chemical appropriate to be applied immediately after a new lawn is seeded. Most others say not to apply to a new or unhealthy lawn, as it can stress or even kill certain types of grass. In fact, siduron supposedly is hard on bluegrass and bermudagrass, but that doesn't concern me.

Anybody have experience with this chemical and/or fescue seed lawns?

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Comments (3)

jimtnc
16 years ago
I don't know what your temps are where you're at, but normally you would be doing all of this at the wrong time of year in most other parts of the country. Fall (Sept/Oct) is the prime time for seeding.

Getting back to Tupersan, I've used if before and it does a fair job at holding back the weed seeds while allowing grass seed to germinate. But keep in mind, this stuff is pretty pricey, not to mention it will only last around 5-6 weeks, if that long. I can't remember how long it lasted when I used it, but it wasn't as long as I thought it should be.

Anyway, it should be long enough to get the grass germinated if the heat doesn't get you. Don't know how hot it gets in San Jose this time of year. If it gets in the 90's...don't expect a beautiful lawn real soon, because the young seedlings will die, but some should survive for a better fall planting.
lifespeed
Original Author
16 years ago
Just a followup. The Tupersan seemed to work well. It took a good six weeks for weeds to start becoming a problem. Long enough for the dwarf fescue to become somewhat established, leaving only 'bald spots' as weed problem areas.

You are correct, of course, that fall is better for seeding. It worked out fine anyway, the summer temps were rarely in the 90's. More effort was required to keep the lawn moist. Any areas that were not well-watered required re-seeding and more watering attention. Overall, not too bad for the wrong time of year.
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Im in the same boat as you...and was wondering the same thing. I emailed Scotts about it and this is what I got, hope it helps. Mr. _________, you cannot apply any weed control product until your new seed is up, growing and has been mowed at least 4 times, regardless of when it was planted. Pre-emergent controls (Step 1 or Turf Builder with Halts) will interfere with seed germination and development. I recommend that you use Starter Fertilizer with Crabgrass Preventer or Scotts Step One for Seeding (not the regular Step 1), if crabgrass is a real problem in your lawn. Only after your lawn (the new seed) has been mowed at least 4 times can you safely use Step 1, Turf Builder with Halts or Halts (without fertilizer). Again, thank you for taking the time to contact us and for your interest in Scotts. Please feel free to contact our company anytime we may be of assistance. I plan on giving it a shot of regular Turfbuiler as my first feeding just to encourage some faster top growth and get it going, get it mowed a bunch and 6 weeks from then hit it with step 2...Im just gonnna have to spot control any crabgrass that I do get.
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jimtnc
16 years ago
Good job lifespeed. Gld it turned out well for you. I was a little concerned about the chicken manure being mixed in with the composted soil. Usually around my parts chicken and turkey manure is pretty hot.

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