Wow. Just...wow. See - when most people say "my yard is infested!" and then we see a picture - there's usually a respectable amount of grass, and some obvious weeds that just need to be pulled or sprayed. You, my friend, were being modest when you said "heavily weed and bermuda infested yard"! I'm going to take the liberty of extending sincere condolences to you from every member of this forum. :-) But before you get too depressed - I'm sure others on this board have seen worse (well, I haven't, but I'm sure others have - right? [insert chorus of agreement here]) To answer a few of your questions: Rolling seed - Once you spread your seed around (use a broadcast / rotary spreader - don't do it by hand, it won't be even [voice of experience speaking!]), a roller is just what it sounds like - think mini-ashpalt roller you push by hand that you first fill (probably no more than 1/2 way) with water. This ensures good seed-to-soil contact, prevents run-off when watering, and is theoretically more important than covering the seed with any sort of topsoil / mulch (the reasoning being that when nature drops seeds, they don't wait for a nice fluffy layer of 1/8" peatmoss or hay to sprout). I rented one for $20 a day from the local rental center. Weed-b-gon is a selective herbicide. The main active ingredient (2,4-D) kills just about everything EXCEPT the grass. Round-up (RU)is a non-selective herbicide. The main active ingredient, glysophate, kills pretty much everything. The exception, of course - is dormant bermuda (could be dormant anything, but in your case, we're just talking bermuda). While dormant, the bermuda isn't sucking up any water or nutrients from the surrounding soil or off its leaves. Thus, it doesn't suck up the RU either. Which, as you've probably already figured out, is why spraying the BG NOW will do nothing to kill it. Having now seen the pictures, I agree with you - you don't need WBG, as there's no grass you're trying to save. Before I go further, I wanted to address your one comment of "why weed-b-gone vs a strong batch of roundup". I may be reading too much into that - but please please please don't over apply any chemicals to your lawn. The mixing instructions (if using a concentrate) are EXTREMELY accurate - please don't play backyard chemist and double the dosage - you'd just waste the chemicals, and introduce more into your yard then is necessary. Plus - a stronger dose may actually keep the plant alive. A higher concentration may work too quickly - you may kill the top 3 inches of a weed within a day, but b/c the section shriveled and dried up so quickly, the RU was never transported to the roots of the plant, so it's free to keep growing and invading your yard. This is why labels say "repeat applications may be necessary" - the first will significantly weaken the plant - the 2nd and 3rd doses, 1-2 weeks apart - will kill it. For what you have, I'm pretty sure one application of normal strength RU is all that's needed. Unless you're going after poison ivy or similar weeds, you won't need the "extra-strength" version. For compost, IIRC, the amounts suggested by dchall should provide a 1/4" layer across the whole lawn. Fling it around, brush it in with a push broom (or landscape rake, as you're not going to be concerned about smothering anything), lightly water, and let the microbes do their magic. I suggested aerating b/c that would allow the compost and seeds to penetrate deeper into the soil. Many forum members have also had good success with renting a slit-seeder, but that may be overkill for a yard your size (a slit-seeder deposits the seeds in a mini-trench it scrapes into the ground, providing that seed-to-soil contact I mentioned before). As far as pH, I believe compost helps return it to neutral, regardless of whether your soil is acidic or alkaline, but I'm out of my comfort zone here, so I'm willing to be corrected. So here's my revised suggestion: 1. RU the yard now - this will kill whatever's growing. The other benefit of RU is that it goes "inert" pretty quick - you can overseed within a few days - WBG forces you to wait at least a week or more. 2. Take a de-thatching rake, and go to town on the dormant bermuda - no - it won't kill it, but it will thin it out significantly. This will also scratch up and loosen the top layer of soil, not as good as aerating, but it could be good enough for now if you want to save the heavy machinery for the fall. 3. Spread compost (side note - sometimes, a predominance of a single type of weed also signifies a particular pH level - so adjusting pH may help with future weed issues) 4. Seed with Perr. Rye (PR) 5. Keep mowing high throughout the summer - the PR won't "crowd out" the BG, but should co-exist for the first few months or so. If you fertilize, do it before the BG starts growing - this will help the PR, but not the BG. 6. In June/July, start using Bayer BG Control, or wait until late Sept / Oct to RU the whole yard again, then proceed with a full-scale reseed in the fall. Related to the last point - Tiemco was suggesting a complete reseed come fall, as it's easier to start from "scratch" than to have any existing lawn compete with the seeds for water and nutrients, plus having extra-long grass (having been watered 3x a day) that you can't mow b/c the seedlings aren't high enough yet. Thanks for the afternoon diversion - I better shut up and start looking productive.

Do you know if you have the common chickweed or the mouse ear chickweed? The common chickweed is considered a winter annual and the mouse ear(Very hairy leaves) is considered a perennial, but I have heard it can act as a winter annual in Oklahoma sometimes. But, being a perennial may explain why it still came up even though you put a pre emergent down. It may have stopped more seeds from germinating though. It seems like I have seen the weed germinate in early spring, die out in the summer, and then germinate again in the fall and then be winter killed or stay green through the winter. About the time you were re-seeding should have been the time to be putting down the Barricade, but we know you cannot do that and re-seed at the same time. Oct-Nov is about the time chickweed germinates. I would try a test patch as philes and morph mention above and you could put down some more Barricade as long as your TTTF is established. If there are any more seeds, it will keep them from germinating. It may also keep crabgrass from germinating early next spring.

When rooting a leaf, cut it to the 1 1/2 inch length and cut it at an angle if you think of it. It is not that big a deal if you forget to cut it at an angle. Keep it in water just temporarily. A few days at most. Water roots are not the same as soil roots. They are longer and bloated because they can't get as much nutrition from water as from being in soil, which is more natural to them. When you plant it in soil, the water roots die off and soil roots grow. So it is almost a waste of time to put a leaf in water. I read that on an old post from Fred Hill. I did not realize that until I read it. You had asked if the Russian leaves grow bigger roots, I had answered that I was not sure because I don't repot that often. However, I accidentally left two Russian leaves in water too long, they grew massively long roots. I promptly planted them. For the few more minutes that it takes to plant a leaf in soil, I am trying to train myself to do that. But when a leaf accidentally snaps off, I am usually in a hurry and have to stick it in water. Then when I get home at night, I make some excuse, such as, it is the plant's resting time, so i should wait until morning to pot it up! By the way, do not remove the water roots when you plant the leaf in soil. The roots will temporarily sustain the plant. For myself, I tamper with the plants as little as possible. I do look at them every day and check them, but I just let them be. I never pull them up to see how the roots are doing as many on this forum do, so I don't really study them too closely. When I repot, I usually pluck up the whole root ball and plop it into a pot and spoon soil mix all around it. Again, I am not looking too closely, because usually in a hurry. When the roots are in a root ball, they are thin. So I am fearful of damaging them. Some get damaged, anyway, and they always need a few days to perk up. Even transplanting a fully grown plant can put it into shock for a while. It has to settle in. My plants seem fine with being moved around, but they need a few days to adjust to being repotted or having too many leaves removed at one time. If a dead leaf or a choking sucker is removed, the plant is happy. But to remove too many leaves or suckers all at once is not good for the plant's life. I know you weren't asking about that but it does come up often. Joanne

I just got off the phone with Klehm Song Sparrow Nursery and they were able to give me an order history either by phone or by e mail. Order history cannot be done through their website. Anyway, I didn't buy this mystery plant though I do think that I may have gotten a 'Holy Mouse Ears', as per Babka's great photos. I will have to reprint the tag with the 'Holy Mouse Ears' on it. Still trying to figure out how I got 1, maybe when they grow all these 'Mouse Ear' series they are grown closely together and this one hitched a ride with the 'Frosted Mouse Ears'.? Thanks everyone for your help. I can always count on someone being able to ID a plant on this website.