One more new lawn question - turning field into lawn
jk96
16 years ago
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jk96
16 years agophiles21
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Help! New sod lawn is getting more yellow by the day!
Comments (1)If the soil is moist to that level, it is very possible you are over watering. Even if the water is not a source of the problem, you are wasting water. You do not want the sod to be "squishy" when walked on. How long are you watering each time? What have been the daily high and low temperatures since you laid the sod? Look at your grass blades for signs of disease like lesions and fungus. Google for images and descriptions of KB turf diseases and compare those pictures to your blades. How did you prep the soil? Did you add amendments? What amendments? How did you incorporate the amendments? How long before you laid the sod?...See MoreQuestion about my new Lawn Boys performance
Comments (2)Okay, let's see; 89 octane fuel is okay. We need to know exactly what oil you put in and how many ounces. Seafoam is okay and 1 oz/gal is not excessive. A 2-cycle will smoke from the exhaust if there's too much oil in the gas. The 10550 has the 'Duraforce' engine that requires a 32:1 mix of Lawn-Boy oil. That's one 8 oz can to two gallons of fuel. Re-reading your post it sounds like you picked up two small bottles of 2-cycle oil, probably a synthetic or synthetic blend, possibly designed for a 50:1 mix. This actually should have been okay IF the mix was properly agitated before putting in the mower. The procedure on these hard-to-mix oils is to add the first bottle to about half a gallon of gas and try to mix it the best you can without slinging gas around. Then add about another half gallon, pour in the second bottle and mix again. Finish filling the can, cap it and shake vigorously. Shake the can before fueling the mower, every time. If I had to guess, I'd say you possibly did not have the oil well-mixed, and the gas you put in the mower was too light on oil. This caused the engine to overheat, usually causing permanent damage. At least it didn't seize, which is a hopeful sign. All Lawn-Boy two-cycles have iron cylinder sleeves, so perhaps it's not too bad. Check the air filter - remove it, wash it, dry it and oil it with 2-cycle oil or special filter oil. I'm trying to figure how smoke could come out of the carb. If you did scratch up the piston and bore, the compression would be low, possibly explaining the poor performance after the incident. This one thing probably explains the constantly-dwindling sales of the 2-cycle mowers leading up to Toro finally pulling the plug - all it takes is one time 'straight-gassing' a 2-cycle and it's junk. If they had been a hot seller, they would have found a way to make them compliant with emmissions laws. As it was, they decided to just get out of that game since the LB share of the market was so small. People today will not pay attention to details like this - they expect everything they use to be a 'refrigerator' - you plug it in and forget it. 4-cycle mowers are easy to maintain and have similar maintenance requirements as cars vis a vis oil changes and air filters....See MoreLawn Boy 10324 Only One Self-Propel Wheel Turning
Comments (4)Clean and lubricate the ratchet inside the small gear on the end of the axle. There is a hole in the end of the axle for cleaning/lubricating these assemblies and it should be done every year. Take a toothpick/pipe cleaner and see if you can clean out the hole some before shooting anything in there. One of the best ways to clean it without disassembly is to use an aerosol spray solvent. I like 'Gun Scrubber' because it's safer on paint, etc. than brake or carb cleaner, but you can use those too. Spray the gear, turn it and spray more, particularly at the rear where it rubs on the axle. When you think you have it pretty good, now shoot it right into the lube hole in the axle. Keep cleaning until you hear no grittiness when turning the gear and you do hear the ratchet clicking. Now you can use the aerosol can of White Lithium Grease with the straw and shoot that into the lube hole. While wet, it also carries a solvent and will probably show some more dirt coming out. Repeat until clean. You might as well do the other side too before it locks up on you. Once you do this, the next time you probably can just use the spray grease. In fact, the spray grease alone might do the job - it depends on how cruddy the ratchets/springs are in there. Also clean the axle bolt, axle bushing inside wheel hub and driven gear on the wheel. Lube these with #2 NLGI grease or the spray lithium grease. If you have a grease gun (might be a good idea to get one of the small grease guns like at Wal Mart) you can inject grease into the lube hole after cleaning. My favorite mower wheel grease is.....don't laugh......Slick 50 'One Grease'. It's a #2 Teflon grease, green in color and sometimes can be found in little 1 oz tubs as well as the 14 oz gun tubes. Hope this hasn't been too rambling - I just wrote off the top of my head. It's a very messy job. I put a piece of 4x4 under the rear of the deck which gets both wheels off the floor and put a piece of cardboard or some newspapers under the rear of the mower. I'll put some solvent in a plastic pan and have a small paint brush, a toothbrush and some rags there for the job. When you take a rear wheel off, be aware of washers and how they are re-installed. If you can't get the ratchets to work in this way, you'll have to pull the gear as tomplum said, and replace pawls/springs as required. But chances are this 'in-situ' cleaning will fix it....See MoreNew lawn and new home owner with lawn problems
Comments (10)really hard to tell for sure but typically fungus in my area is reddish/yellow. You may have multiple problems. The problem with newbies is that they want to solve problems with chemicals (I was one of the worst offenders). The worst time to add fertilizer is when a grass is stressed and excessive nitrogen will show up as patterns matching the application method. If you just applied the nitrogen within the last few days you can reduce the effect by watering heavily for one day but if you applied it more than a few days ago you are probably past the danger period. Again, check the soil moisture at about 2-6" deep at several areas in your lawn each week. It should be slightly wet the day of watering and then let it go to slightly damp before watering again. Wet all the time just rots the roots and causes yellowing due to lack of nutrients. With most soils a twice weekly 1" watering in the summer is all you need. When the grass comes back on it's own (and I'm almost certain it will) then evaluate the soil like I said and take any corrective action required. Guessing and throwing chemicals at it will probably make things worse....See Moresoccer_dad
16 years agojk96
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16 years agojk96
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