Allowing it to dry well will help if it's an issue with rotting roots, but those spots in the top pic aren't what overwatering or too dry usually looks like. When Pothos gets too dry, entire leaves turn evenly yellow, starting with those nearest the roots. Some of the damage in the 2nd pic could be from rotting roots but impossible to say for sure from a pic. Just in case it is some type of fungus, try to keep the foliage dry when watering. Pothos researchers at FL U say sudden drop in temps can cause spots like that. My (main) plant that didn't get brought inside seems to have suddenly developed these spots too since we've had a few colder nights in the midst of much warmer days. (There are some more interesting cuttings I've gotten in trade recently and I've lost interest in devoting space inside to the ubiquitous one. Curious at this point if it can survive winter here, so put it in the ground a few days ago. Last winters' experiment of whether it can go 4 months without a drink was successful, though my house isn't as dry as most during winter.) Symptoms - Leaves have scattered brown patches, usually located in the center of the leaf. Control - Low temperatures or abrupt change from very high temperatures to moderate temperatures can cause this discoloration, especially if plants are succulent and growing vigorously. Maintain even, warm temperatures. Here is a link that might be useful: Pothos production guide, UFL

Sorry Annabelle, It's easy for tags to be switched btwn pots. Also sometimes their tags are just wrong, it this case they appear to have been switched. Here's some Golden Pothos (Epipremnum), that I grow in water. But my Pothos growing in soil get watered every 7-10 days or so, I think yours MAY be underwatered. Yours is some variation whose name I forget. Something about Joy or Cream in the name. Let's allow some time for others to chime in, someone here will know. In the meantime, I'd try watering a bit more often & water well, 'til some comes out the bottom.

There are 2 perspectives from which to view the frequency with which a grow medium requires you to water a planting. From the grower's perspective, a need to water every few days (say, 3-5) might seem like an inconvenience. From the plant's perspective, however, it's a godsend. When a grower is accustomed to measure watering intervals in weeks instead of days (because of the grow medium being used), it's easy to become conditioned to the idea long watering intervals should be considered the norm, even when a planting's ability to hold water enough to provide long intervals between waterings (measured in weeks) is innately limiting to root function and often wrecks root health. If the grower is willing to water as often as required, it's far more often true than untrue that the more frequently a planting actually needs watering, the greater will be the plant's/plants' opportunity to realize a greater measure of its genetic potential. Excepting instances where the grower is withholding water intentionally to force a consequential dormancy, or, when the plant material is known to appreciate (different than 'tolerate') going completely dry, watering intervals much longer than 5 days at most, would be listed in the 'limiting conditions' column. The media I make and use usually offer 3-6 day watering intervals over winter, indoors, under lights, and 1-3 day intervals outdoors all summer. That is by design and not happenstance; this, because longer intervals cause a loss of potential that's quite conspicuous once you've had a basis for comparison. I'd skip the rooting in water - it's far more headache than it's worth. Al

I removed the pothos from the pot and sawed off the bottom inch as it was very root bound. I loosened up the root ball with my hands then placed back inside the same pot with a new potting mix. My old potting mix was miracle grow and perlite. I am now using 5 parts pine bark mulch (half sifted to 1/4" and the other half about 1/2" with 1 TBSP garden lime per LB of pine bark), 2 parts MG potting mix, 2 parts perlite. Watered deeply until water was coming through the bottom of the pot. There is some cinnamon sprinkled on top because I have been having issues with my other plants and fungus gnats. It has been about 1 1/2 weeks, and a large amount of leaves have been lost. I cut back two vines and pulled off the yellow leaves. I have an identical pothos that I have not touched. You can see in the picture that it has 1 yellow leaf close to the base. Both plants had been doing this for a while which is what led me to repotting. I did this same process with my peace lily due to the soil not drying through. It has been about 3 weeks and my peace lily is completely limp. Can the vines grow the leaves back on the bare vines or should I just trim back the vines? 1 week after repot and watering The other identical pothos that has not yet been repotted Repotted pothos - yellow leaves and two vines removed Peace lily 3 weeks after repot. The mix has remained wet, this is the same mix i used for the pothos.