When you noticed teh plant was droopy, was the soil wet or dry? Plants can look wilted either from underwatering OR from their roots rotting because they were overwatered and the roots were suffocated by the excess water. One good thing about pothos is that it grows very easily in plain water (it may seem strange, but a pothos plant can survive more easily in pure water than in overly wet soil). You might want to try clipping some stems and putting them in a glass of water to make sure you don't lose the whole plant while trying to save the potted one. Make sure to include part of the stem that has those brown nubbins on it - those nubbins are where new roots will form. I have always had the experience that some plants that people say are "easy" are tricky for me, while I can grow some plants that others say are "hard" without any special effort. It all depends on things like your home's climate and your watering habits. This post was edited by summersunshine on Wed, Apr 30, 14 at 15:27

oxford_pictionary, 'ground layering' works quite well also. Take hold of the tip of a runner and double it back to the container. Use a plant staple or a suitably modified paper clip to secure the third or fourth internode in the container and cover lightly with potting soil. Try to cover as many nodes as possible. In time the buried node(s) will root; and you can then cut away the original runner. Snip the end of this runner as close as you dare to a node. It will continue to elongate from the bud. The rooted 'cutting' will grow out into a new runner. A modification of the above procedure; prepare another container and 'ground layer" as many runners as is convenient / needed (3 or 4). When these have rooted, cut away the (mother) runners and you should have a new hanging basket to raise to your likeness. Layering

I was referring to potential damage that might have occurred between point-of-sale and your home. You didn't mention how deep the pot is, so I'll just say watering any plants in pots deeper than about 3-5" using that the top inch or two of soil is dry, is more often than not a recipe for over-watering. After a thorough watering, most bagged grow media will support a 3-6" layer of soil 100% saturated with water at the bottom of the pot. A 10" deep pot could easily still have 6" of 100% saturated soil at the bottom of the pot when the top inch or two feels dry. It's far more important to know what moisture conditions are at the pot bottom, and a moisture meter isn't a reliable tool for that; instead, a sharpened (in a pencil sharpener) wooden dowel makes a much more reliable tool. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

The question was actually about Jade Pothos....these are supposed to be Hawaiian Pothos...as far as I know/can tell, the only difference between Golden and Hawaiian are that the Hawaiian are larger and the variegation is more.....striated? (at least in the pictures I've seen) These are supposed to be small Hawaiian, and they are a bit larger than the regular Golden, the one that has the most variegation does appear to be somewhat more striated (than blotchy), but I imagine it varies by individual leaves. I guess I'll have to wait and see how big they get. I mentioned in another post that I had ordered these and someone asked me to post pictures, I started a new post so as not to "hijack" someone else's post :)