Or one can put a couple of cuttings in water, root them & pot up. Continue to take cuttings off of it & replenish them into the water & ultimately back into the parent plant. I've got 2 pots I've done like this for years, one is a large pot I keep a darker spot in my living room (next to computer). The other I recently took apart from an oversize cafe au lait cup, around which I wound the trailing vines from time to time. When it got too long, I'd cut it back & water root more of the cuttings & plant them back into the parent plant, which is the only way to make it look "bushy" in its pot.

Both methods work. If you want to ultimately grow them in potting mix, use that. If you start the cuttings in water, allow the roots to grow only about 1/2-inch and, then, plant them into moist potting mix. The rather short water-roots will help stabilize the cutting when it's put into the potting mix. But the problem is that the cutting must now produce roots adapted to a totally different sort of growing media, and the water-roots will die.

I don't see any roots on this cutting in the picture. I see what look like adventitious roots, the little nubs that can turn into roots. But I see no new roots. The new roots should be bright white. I would wait. Pothos create huge root systems in water normally. But if you choose to plant them, you just need to make sure the media stays consistently damp. Not soaking but just lightly moist. That's how nurseries propagate. They don't root in water. They just stick the cuttings in soil and keep the soil moist and the greenhouse has high humidity. You could put them in a container or ziploc bag to mimic that type of humid environment.

1. Some people seem to think pothos plants do well to have a little root binding, some think it's better to allow the roots room to grow. What is the consensus among experienced house-pant nurturers? Root congestion is always a limiting factor, and the limitations begin just before the plant reaches a state where the root' soil mass can be lifted from the plant intact. The image below is about when you might expect a plant's growth rate, vitality (health), appearance, and where applicable - yields, to be negatively affected by root congestion. In the second image, limitations are at the point of being serious and would be becoming conspicuous to observant growers. The image above, showing the lower half of the root/ soil mass having been removed, was the first step beginning a repotting session (after depotting the plant, i.e.). 2. We were away from home for a couple months and left our place in the generally excellent care of a friend, who roomed here. I'd given instructions about taking care of our houseplants, and (it being winter) said to water the pothos at most every 10 days, and said to only bottom water. However, our dear friend forgot these details and top watered. Several of the plant's individual vines lost their leaves (on the upper half of the vine, closest to the pot). The plant didn't shed leaves because it was watered from the top. It more likely pitched a fit because it was over or under-watered, most likely the former. Is it likely this can stimulate other (short) shoots to grow out and produce lots of leaves? No. There is a chemical/ growth regulator (auxin) which is synthesized primarily in the growing tip of the vines. One of its jobs is to inhibit lateral growth/ new branching along the vine/ branch/ stem. It does this through suppression of buds or preformed branches. The buds from which the new branches in leaf axils (crotch formed by leaf stem and branch it's attached to) grew at the same time the leaves (now mature) were growing, so they were ALWAYS there and ready to grow, except they were being suppressed by the chemical I mentioned. You can see by the image that I removed the branch apex (tip of the branch where extension growth takes place) which eliminated the chemical/ growth regulator which was suppressing growth of these buds. In your case, it seems you removed entire vines, when the best choice would have been to cut the vines back to a point where only 2 nodes remained on the leaf. Reason: Since you eliminated the source of the chemical/ growth regulator that suppresses lateral growth, new branches with new leaves would have formed at the 2 nodes you left. From that point forward, and in order to keep the plant full, allow each vine to grow 2 leaves. When the 3rd is starting to open, pinch the vine (remove the growing tip) so just the 2 leaves remain. From those 2 leaves you'll get 2 new branches. When you pinch those, you'll have 4 new branches, then 8, then 16, 34, 64 ........ . Al