What's your opinion on Kellogg soil?
spaghetina
14 years ago
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debster88
3 years agotrumanma
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Need your opinion on soil management concept
Comments (6)That looks very much like many clay soils I see often, very low in organic matter. What you want to get the level of OM to is between 6 and 8 percent which can be a fairly large amount of organic matter. Hugelkultur is a way of getting OM into the soil but can take a very long time. Compost, shredded leaves, and cover crops are quicker methods of amending soil. Perhaps these simple soil tests might be of some help. 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy....See Moreplease tell me your opinions about soil testing
Comments (2)From what I have seen of soil tests they depend on commercial fertilizers to balance so what use is that if a person wants to remain organic Just not true. Soil tests just describe chemical and structural properties of soil, they may have a reccomendation about what to do about deficiencies, and that reccomendation might involve chemical products (you of course could find an organic alternative) but it is always a good idea to do a soil test before applying any type of fertilzer even organic in my opinion. the 'need' to test it would arise if something wasnt doing well and you wanted to know exactly why. If your plants are doing fine then great there is not a reason to test your soil. But that doesnt invalidate testing. Some people may have an interest or need to be more precise. and if adding vegeatative matter has such a permanent effect then why reccomend doing it every year? Organic gardening is a good practice but this kind of blind ignorance is so tiresome.....It sounds like youve reached this simplistic reductionist conclusion and you just want everyone to agree with it....See MoreOpinions on Putting Moisture Beads in Potting Soil
Comments (8)Shading the pots from any direct sunlight on them can make ALL the difference in the world. There is a tremendous difference between any kind of pot heated by warm to hot air and the same pot heated by any direct sun exposure. The difference is an easy one to demonstrate. When it's hot and sunny, stand in the shade and notice the temperature. Then, go stand in the direct sun. It is intensely hotter. That is the difference between a shaded and direct sun exposure pot and the soil/root ball inside it. Materials which insulate against that heat absorption and transfer lessen the extremes. Materials which absorb heat, hold and radiate it more efficiently exacerbate the extremes. You can frequently leave the plant parts exposed to the full sun, as long as you're not experiencing weather extremes. Shading the pots and roots against that sun can mean the difference between a growing plant and a dead one. Kim...See MoreSoil Testing: Your opinions?
Comments (11)The saga with this bed continues. I was out with a soil cultivator today... kinda a garden fork kinda thing.... loosening the soil so that the mulched up leaves could settle into the air pockets with the spring rains and thaw. The previous owner, of whom I regularly question and curse the landscape decisions, installed a very questionable means of lighting the landscape. There's a 3" pvc pipe running under the sidewalk you see in pic 1... that's not the questionable part though. I runs into the bed at the left, which I've replanted and now contains annabelle hydrangea. The pvc pipe in the bed I'm working in, has a rock trench running from the pvc at the sidewalk out to the corner of the retaining wall, next to the ninebark. Um, HUH? It's almost like a drain/dry rock bed, but it's not even properly done for that!.... Looks like your bed will have a lot, or even full sun. Now would be a great time to install soaker hoses. Those hostas will need more water. You might also consider raising that retaining wall to make your bed more level. You have a very pretty home by the way. Yes, swmo, you're correct. It will be getting nearly full sun as it will be from approx 10am to 3pm, with the tree's current canopy shadow. And I'd already planned on doing either a soaker or drip for that area. There is already a sprinkler head by the driveway (approx where the ninebark tree is), so I was just going to tap off of that or add a separate drip line off the faucet at the side of the house.... we'll see what hubby is willing to help with in that arena! That retaining wall used to be another course higher and that allowed for the limestone to be level(ish) up by the sidewalk. However, in our 2nd year here, we noticed that the rock had pushed the retaining all stones forward as the were not properly set. So, we took off the top layer so as not to draw attention to the fact that they were tipping forward. We're not willing to do the work to correct the wall's foundation, so we'll have to just deal with it as it is, unfortunately. I'm sorta leaning toward testing at the U... I know it'd be accurate that way....See Morerusty thomas
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