My brand new master shower does not have a pre sloped pan. They also had a very hard time sloping my mosiac tiles during install(long thin tiles). It looks/works fine now, please tell me it does not need to be redone... If it's new construction and does not meet code, I'd want it to meet code. You'll get a better shower and the installer will learn to follow code. Or you can leave it as is. You may not ever have problems...or you may have problems. The irony? I'm not a tile guy like Bill. Yet I still know code. Why do Bill and I know code? Simply because we're professionals. He in his field, me in mine. We didn't flunk out of cooking school, or get fired from our jobs at the factory, or flunk out of college, and decide as an alternative to set tile or build houses. And if we had flunked out of cooking school, that's cool...as long as we learn about our new job before we pick up a margin trowel and bust open a bag of thinset for the first time. I'd say close to 70% of people in construction build incorrectly. That's inexcusable. When I buy a new car I shouldn't have to learn about internal combustion engines and then visit the plant to make sure the line guys are building my car correctly. It shouldn't be that way in construction either. Sad. Getting off my soapbox so I can go decorate the Christmas tree, Mongo

A photo of the puddle would help. If your shower is not draining properly then mold etc could become an issue. The issue is where is the unevenness. If it goes right down to the shower pan liner then that water will never drain and it's a major fix. If it's just at the surface right under the tile then it might be an easier fix. But as your contractor already tried and failed to do a spot repair it sounds as if there's no waterproofing on the shower pan directly under the tile. There are lots of contractors who have been building showers in the same way for many years and just haven't adopted the new standards, methods of construction and modern waterproofing products. I think an honest conversation with your contractor is needed to understand what they did and how it can be fixed.

1. Your builder may have an interior designer on staff that will help with all of the interior decisions. This, of course, comes with a pricetag (maybe not a line item, but it would be included). If your builder doesn't have one on staff, your best bet would be to hire someone. When we got bids on our house, we spec'd out generals: windows, floor type, cabinet type, shower material, counter material, etc. We didn't pick the EXACT material - those were included in an allowance. When it actually came to picking WHAT floor or cabinet style, we would have used the interior designer. 2. Your stairs are narrow. 3'0" is code minimum, but that is not comfortable, especially for stairs that will be used all the time. Ours are 40" and widen to 44". You'll be going up and down them a lot so you may want something a bit roomier. 3. I agree with others about all the 2 level rooms. I would close that up in an instant. 4. You walk into your master straight into a wall. Or a closet. Consider if that's the look you want. Plus I am not a fan of double doors. One will never get used. Where is your light switch? 5. You don't have room for a freestanding tub in your master bath. Toilet room is too small for an inswing door. 10' is a HUGE vanity. 6. You'll be hauling 3 kids' laundry upstairs to do it. Consider either adding a 2nd laundry space on the main level - and teaching your kids how to share laundry machines - and/or putting in an elevator. You will not have an entirely private level unless you plan on doing all of your kids' laundry forever. 7. Having the powder room right off the kitchen may make that bath really uncomfortable for guests to use. 8. Get rid of the pocket door into the shared bath and flip that bath around so the toilet is up against the closet. That bathroom is just about the worst of a jack and jill. Consider adding a tub/shower combo in that room for resale (anyone with kids under 5 or planned kids won't want to buy your house because they'll have to have their kids bathe in the master bath and truck up and down stairs with all that goes with that). 9. Any deck that you want to use for anything other than a couple chairs needs to be at least 10'. For dining, you need at least that width for a dining table. For comfortable living room type seating, 12'-14'. 10. Do you plan to watch TV in your living room? If so, consider flipping the living and dining room, and put the TV on the bar wall. And insulate that wall. 11. Kid in the middle bedroom gets screwed. Smallest room, no direct bathroom access, and toilets on both shared walls. 12. Reconsider pantry window. Typically food should be stored in a dark place. 13. Consider having seating on the edges of your island as well - this will make for easier conversation if you actually plan on eating there. 14. 3'-6" is pretty tight between a fridge and island. This probably doesn't include fridge handles or counter overhang, either. We have 4' between ours, and it only works because it's a french door fridge.

HELP! MY SHOWER IS LEAKING! Many times, a leaking tiled shower can be the result of an unqualified person performing the work. A leaking shower can damage other areas of the bathroom or even the room below the shower. There are multiple reasons why this could happen. Your first line of defense should be to have your plumber check for leaks in the: · shower control valve and/or pipe to the shower head · water supply lines · drain and trap Your second line of defense should be to have your shower door installer check for leaks in: · the door track mounted on the curb (if present) · the vinyl sweep on the bottom of the door · between the vertical metal frame and the tiled wall · between the door and the metal frame attached to the tiled wall What evidence do you see of a leaking shower? 1. The ceiling in the room below my shower has water stains and/or water is dripping from the ceiling Potential Causes · Hole or leak in the pan liner under the tile · Clogged weep holes in the drain assembly · No or incorrectly applied waterproofing on the curb, walls, niches, and seats · Post-tile installation: installed grab bars, soap dishes, or other screw-attached items – not properly sealed 2. The floor tile just outside my shower is wet, damp, and/or discolored Potential Causes · Shower curb is not sloped properly toward the drain and water is running onto outside floor · Shower pan membrane/liner not properly installed over the entire curb and continuing to the floor outside the shower · Pan liner pierced during shower door installation 3. The tile on the inside of my shower walls, floor or curb is loose, the grout is cracking or there is a mineral deposit build up at grout/caulk lines Potential Causes · Blocked weep holes at drain · Breach or incorrect installation of shower pan membrane/liner · Improper or lack of waterproofing at wall to curb and/or other changes in plane · Improper materials used under the tile · Lack of proper ventilation (ceiling fan) 4. The tile on the curb is cracked and/or loose and/or the walls next to the curb are deteriorating. Potential Causes · The curb was not properly constructed and/or waterproofed · Backer board was nailed or screwed through the shower pan liner and into the curb. No waterproofing was applied · The curb does not have the proper slope toward the drain · The shower door was improperly installed (door installer error) o Holes drilled into the curb or the floor on a barrier free shower o Holes drilled into the wall and not properly sealed 5. The walls outside my shower are damp and spongy, drywall is bubbling, or damaged. There is evidence of moisture damage and mold/mildew on the wall(s) on the other side of the shower. Potential Causes · The shower pan liner was not correctly installed · The shower drain was not properly installed · The shower drain weep holes are clogged · Improper or lack of waterproofing on walls up to the shower head · Fasteners were placed through the tiled surface and not sealed 6. My shower has a terrible odor Potential Causes · Incorrect drain installed · The floor under the shower pan liner was not properly sloped toward the drain · The shower drain weep holes are clogged · The lower part of the drain body (below the tile surface) was incorrectly installed higher than the surrounding floor and will not drain · Stagnant water and organic shower products (soap, shampoo, body wash, and body oil are trapped below the tile allowing mold to grow Unless otherwise indicated (such as plumber or glass installer), it is important that you seek the help of an industry QUALIFIED tile professional who uses tile industry standards and approved best practices for shower installations and strictly follows the material manufacturer’s specifications and instructions. It’s helpful to understand this about showers: A properly constructed shower manages and directs all the water that flows through it to the drain, and nowhere else. The shower “fixture” needs to be water tight, utilizing one of the two basic types of showers: a "Water In, Water Out" shower system, which is constructed with a clamping ring drain and waterproof shower pan liner or a "Sealed System" which employs a bonding flange drain and a waterproofing membrane that extends to the shower head. Both systems require that the walls, seats, ledges, niches, and curbs be treated with the appropriate waterproofing product. If the waterproofing, drain components, or any part of the shower system is not installed properly, is damaged, punctured, or compromised during installation, a leak can and will result in failure. PLEASE NOTE: Beware of the claims that a leaking shower can be eliminated by using grout or caulking repairs/replacement or the application of a sealer or coating. These actions will, at best, provide only a temporary fix. Beware of individuals and companies who are NOT insured, licensed where required, or certified by the tile industry. Wisely consider, interview, and hire dedicated tile professionals who have received proper training and have experience in the process of providing a long-lasting and trouble-free shower installation. A qualified tile professional will perform work in accordance with the Tile Council of North America (TCNA) HandbookMethods, American National Standards Institute (ANSI) Standards, and the manufacturer’s written instructions.