puddle on tiled shower floor
white_unicorn
5 years ago
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Bri Bosh
5 years agowhite_unicorn
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Tile shower floor or use shower pan
Comments (7)I'm not going to comment on the differences between the two options, we never even considered a pan and it was never an issue with our contractor. In addition to having to build it in, you have to allow a couple of days for the concrete to cure, so I'm sure it takes longer. It makes sense that he wants to take the method of least resistence "and get it done to be done with it" because time is money and the quicker he can finish your job, the quicker he can move on to the next. But that doesn't mean that you should be asked to compromise what you'd prefer to do just because it will benefit your contractor. Get additional quotes and stick to what you either vision or can afford to do. Also, when my GC was tiling our master bath, I ran into a similar situation with our niche. Bill told me something that really put things into perspective and changed my whole approach to the project. He said, "He who holds the golden egg is the boss" In other words, it's your project, you're paying the bill, so you make the call. If it's not a job he wants to do, find someone else you feel comfortable with who will....See MoreShower Floor Puddles - See Pics and Read What Contractor Said
Comments (26)Love the look you have going, the combination of wood look and embossed metal is really great. It sounds like he sloped in the 'inverted pyramid' that Mongo mentions, but then laid the tile accross the corners that lead to the drain, instead of out from them. The floor should be sloped like an 'X', with the drain at the center, the arms running to the corners. Tiles in each section of the 'X' should be laid at a 90 degre angle to its immeadiate neighbors so that the majority of grout lines are funneling water into the X arms. I'm not sure the 'weep holes' issue has been properly addressed, not clear to me though maybe it is to Bill or Mongo. And even though I love the look, I'd worry that this is going to be one slick floor: not enough grout lines, a glazed surface, and a large format, low texture tiles. So, for saftey if not for drainage, I think it needs a do-over. I'd cut the tile into small pieces and try to do a layout like a parquet floor, with plenty of grout lines for grip....See MoreUgh, new tile shower not draining--puddles
Comments (71)Yes, same place (except when my five year old showers and then there is one small place outside of the shower that puddles very slightly--no one else splashes that much). And yes I am going to let my GC replace just that tile. I hear everyone saying it's a tear out because kerdi membrane tears if you try to replace just one tile. But schluter specifically allows this kind of repair and my GC described his plan just as the schluter website does. So I don't think I have any justification for demanding a tear out based on resetting one tile. I do understand some are basing their tear out recommendations on the overall slope and/or their guesses of the materials used. And I don't mean to denigrate their recommendations, but we have decided to accept this as-is assuming the repair is successful....See MoreGrout issues with shower floor tile and wall tile installs
Comments (8)Ok so, so sorry but here: Master- 1) Lay-out is awful. You shouldn't have that small tile at the inside (a pro balances the lay-out prior to install). Yes your concerns regarding uneven and improper slope are valid. Pretty basic standard for tile installation, especially on a shower floor where proper pitch to drain is imperative. Being concerned about the damage occurring from tearing it out is a mute point as you will have major issues as it is. 2) As others have stated, that should be caulk and always caulk at change of planes, not grout. And no, it isn't common for professionals to install on a surface that isn't plumb and flat. If either the general or the tile contractor do not shim and level to prepare for tile, then standards are being ignored and you have a problem. It's poorly done. 3) That is the very cheapest drain assembly available (if it was speced and this was a very low end build, then maybe that was to be expected but as a customer you should be aware of the quality of the product being used). Very unprofessional job around the drain. It should be cut so nicely around the drain that you don't even notice the grout. It is definitely not an "average job". In the tile world, we would call it a "hack job". Guest - 1) Multiple possibilities for the grout pinholes, all related to skill and craftsmanship. Could you dab grout in those places and hope it looks a little better? If you bought a new car would you ask them to fix the paint or dents before you drove it off the lot? You shouldn't need to do patch work on something new. 2) Caulk but remove grout first. 3) Caulk and color match, not clear. Clear is a bad idea there. Now, I'm sorry if we sound harsh. It's an exciting time to move into a new home. If consumers do not hold the builders to basic standards, there will continue to be builders that take short cuts and perform sub-standard work. ALL builds should adhere to basic standards and there is no excuse for what you are seeing. (I hate to say it but I'd be concerned about the methods used to build and waterproof the wet areas, what you can't see, based on what you can see). One place to start is to ask your contractor to document how all aspects of the tile work conform to TCNA industry standards....See Moremillworkman
5 years agowhite_unicorn
5 years agowhite_unicorn
5 years agowhite_unicorn
5 years agomillworkman
5 years agowhite_unicorn
5 years agomillworkman
5 years agoJeff Meeks
5 years agowhite_unicorn
5 years agoJeff Meeks
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agowhite_unicorn
5 years agoJeff Meeks
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agowhite_unicorn
5 years agoJeff Meeks
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
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