Hi, Tuesdays Child. Well, you had to pick a really tough orchid it seems. I can't even grow the easy ones. But I found this info on the web that may give you some ideas. "Or Crane Orchid. Because it really does look like the Japanese white crane, a symbol of health & long life & fortune, & of Japan Airlines. Also it lives in bogs where cranes nest. But in "captivity" it doesn't like to be as wet as in the wild, & its bogs dry out in seasonally, so duplicating it's wet then dry natural habitat can be a pain. Seeds almost never germinate for amateurs as they're triggered by a specific bog bacteria in their natural environment, but it should produce offsets (I think) as the old pseudobulb wears out, so will perepetuate itself. > It is also known taxonomically as pecteilis > radiata. > > Do any of you have experience growing these? I've found only two references > to culture on the web. One grower reported limited success growing in > sphagnum. Another site said part to full sun in well-drained, acidic soil > kept moist until after flowering is completed and the plants go dormant. Any > other suggestions for success? > > Except for Bletilla striata, I grow all my orchids in pots and in the > winter, indoors. On the west coast these reputedly have naturalized in some peoples' yards, but won't spread beyond the initial plantings because seeds don't germinate. The only terrestrial orchid I grow so far is a comparatively easy pleione (in full bloom right now; your pecteilis will likely be a summer bloomer), so am reluctant to suggest much, as you would already know more than I know, since you do grow other kinds of orchids & didn't restrict yourself to such an easy one. But I think the reason you're getting contradictory information is because terrestrial orchids do in fact sometimes grow in moss rather than in the ground, so that that they're encountered in the wild growing in moss atop rocks or even up in trees just like epiphytes. Soil is best (with one-third orchid bark) but with the tops of the bulb sticking above the surface of the soil then finish "burying" it with a protectie layer ofliving moss, not with dead moss. I think the only thing special about your pecteilis's needs will be its boggy spring & summer, dry autumn & winter cycle -- when it wants water it'll die the instant it goes without, & when it doesn't want water it'll rot the instant it gets watered by accident, so it's a tough balance. It sounds bassackwards for Japanese weather patterns but the bogs are caused by snowmelting off mountains rather than by rainfall & they do dry out in winter rather than summer, when the mountain snows are no longer melting off. When leaves first appear on P. sagarikii they form a funnel to catch rainwater, but in "captivity" they don't actually like to have any stagnant water in those leaves, so maybe P. striata will be the same & when watering it you'll need to take care not to fill it with water. I presume you already tried googling for info. I just now gave google a try & found nothing better than this page: http://plantsdatabase.com/go/48722/ which is minimal but does give seasonal temperatures, & notes that living sphagnum is preferred over the pseudobulb's surface; so that might be enough to get you started right. Personally I would never try this orchid cuz I'm cowardly about houseplants & I want everything to fit in the yard so that Nature helps me out & plants aren't completely reliant on me alone. When I was researching terrestrial orchids, I reluctantly decided I would probably fail with any orchid except pleine & bletilla, because they are the ones best apt to naturalize outdoors & end up taking care of themselves (pecteilis might do so if one is willing to cover them with a waterproof tent in winter). If I may judge it correctly from its photograph, the one you've just gotten has got to be one of the most charming orchids of all, so intensely bird-like. Best of luck with it, & if you can report back with future success (or tragic failure) I'd love to have your notes on it, maybe I'll even get daring if you find it easier than I suspect. ***Good luck*** It looks like you are going to need it. However, I am the kind of person who, when someone says I'll not be able to do it, I'll try it anyway! Keep us posted on your progress. It is indeed a beautiful plant. Susan

BTW - I am NOT LindaC, but I am channeling her right now LOLOLOL! Here is one I had saved from a while ago: Pork Tenderloin stovetop method A pork tenderloin cooks so quickly it's no trick to cook it on the top of the stove. I use a le Cruset gratin dish. add a little oil...just about a teaspoon and over medium heat. brown the filet on all sides and when it's on the last sice add sliced onion and a cored apple sliced ( I cut the slices in half so they are half rounds), a very little bit of fresh grated ginger about a teaspoon full and just a few leaves of fresh rosemary...maybe 4 "needles" cut up, and 1/2 cup white wine and I cover with foil beacuse my gratin dish doesn't have a lid, and simmer 15 minutes, remove the foil, turn the meat over and stir the onions and apple, add half a cup of water if it needs more moisture, cover and simmer another 15 minutes, test for doneness and if not done cook another 10 minutes until tender. Do NOT over cook or it will be dry. Slice and top with cooked onion and apple. As I remember the last time I served this, I wished I had more onion and apple, so it might be a good idea to add 2 onions and 2 apples to the pan! Linda C

Did you use fabric softner?? That might be the problem. If so rub shampoo on the spots and rewash. Sometimes the softner will cause dark spots on fabric

Unfortunately, this jade cannot be saved. It is severely sunburned and will not be able to perk back up. All of the leaves are damaged and you will not be able to propagate this plant. When placing plants in sunnier areas, you should always slowly acclimate them to the higher levels of light. The stem looks fine, but your mix is not suitable for growing succulents. It is very heavy and seems to be clay-based. If you attempt to grow jade plants again, I would recommend using a commercially available cactus mix in a 50/50 ratio with perlite.