dryer indicates 80% blockage. Professional duct cleaning didn't help
Archer
8 months ago
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dadoes
8 months agoRelated Discussions
Miele dryer "Filter/Vent" fault, frequently triggered
Comments (24)Taking the toe kick off did not help. I did a load with one pillow and one 2x3 heavy cotton bath rug. It was near the end of it's cycle at the cooling down phase. I walked away and the buzzer went off. Came back and the filter light was on. I opened the door and the pillow was standing, back at the rear vent area. I had the settings on normal, full load, extra dry. The rug was ever so damp and the pillow (synthetic stuffing) wasn't totally dry either. Moderate to large amount of lint on the screen. Rug had been washed a fair number of times. Pillow was the first time. I took a piece of toilet paper and there was a nice draw that was being pulled in at the opening that I exposed. The filter light still went off. Fahrenheit: 1) if I get a buster what kind do I look at? 2) Would taking that dip out of the corrugated run help, as seen in the picture, or do I just get the darn booster? 3) I would have never thought that I would have needed a booster with the unit 8' away from the outside wall. Is this fairly common? I recognize the bends are causing more resistance to air flow, but still. 4) Is this typical for all dryers to need a booster at 33' of adjusted run, or is it because my dryer is really a hair dryer like MRB-627 says? LOL....See MoreMiele T 9820 Gas Dryer Kaputt
Comments (21)If you pull the service manuals for the Octoplus machines they are different. The outside basic shell is the same, but what went inside was different. The professional machines have full stainless inner and outer drums. Stainless vs Aluminum spider. The shocks are much beefier. The drum is horizonal and not inclined. There is no captive rubber boot for the door. The last one is why Miele won't sell the octoplus to residential customers. It is possible to get little fingers caught between the door and frame. The upside is that without a boot there are lot fewer problems with water being retained in a boot and you get a better seal. They are setup for external chemical dispensing. Designed to last 30k instead of 10k hours. Etc. Etc. Miele made too many compromises with the 27" residential units. It backfired on them. Now they only offer their worldwide residential 24" and professional 24" and up sizes. There was never a gas version of the octoplus dryer that I was aware of. It was electric only. The electric versions of the T98xx dryer had fewer problems. Most of which were related to the machine being overloaded. The octoplus is rated to hold a full drum worth of clothes. The residential models were not. It was very easy to put 1.5 to two times the amount of clothes in the residential drum vs what they were rated to hold. For marketing and customer education that is really up to the reseller. Some dealers are really good and others just sell you the appliance and you are on your own. Miele's manuals are fantastic. Much better than almost every other manufacturer. Many people do not read the manual cover to cover so they are unaware of all of the available options and any required ongoing maintenance. We are a family of 13 people now and we have ONE set of W1/T1 laundry. We do ALL of our laundry in them. From towels to dress shirts, wool pants and sweaters, sanitize when needed. Never had one problem with them. I did replace the foam filter on the dryer which is in front of the condenser after 3000 hours as it was starting to wear out. (This was mentioned in the manual) I think looking at the size of the new washer/dryer gives a lot of people pause. It is NOT an issue if you are accustomed to doing laundry every day. With the size of our family it is 4-6 loads per day. We can put 12-14 Costco size bath towels in one load for perspective. You can fill the drum all the way up as long as you don't pack it tight and lean on the door to get it closed everything will come out clean. It's too bad you didn't have better luck with your current appliances. I can see how that would taint your view of Miele....See MoreFisher Paykel Washer/Dryer
Comments (32)Do you use softener sheets in the dryer? Try cleaning the sensor bars with rubbing alcohol. There's a diagnostic for the sensor bars thusly: With the power Off, press and hold Auto Dry Down, then press Power. It'll beep once, but no panel lights come on. Press Auto Dry Up five times. A few lights on the panel may flicker. Brush your fingers or a damp cloth over the sensor bars, and the flickering indicator lights will change to show it's sensing moisture. The lights should drop back when the moisture evaporates off the bars. If the lights don't change, then there's a problem with the bars or sensor circuit. Press any cycle button (Delicate, Regular, etc.) to exit the diagnostic. By return duct, I assume you mean exhaust duct. What does the 6-foot distance involve exactly? Is that the distance from back of the dryer to the wall? Or is it the FULL length from back of the dryer to outside the house? If the ducting to outside the house is longer, have you examined/cleaned the FULL length of it to confirm there's not a clog somewhere? The machine can generally detect an exhaust blockage by way of high element temperature due to insufficient airflow. It will signal a problem by beeping and flashing the Auto Sensing light during the cycle, and it should continue beeping and flashing after the cycle ends until any panel button is pressed. If the blockage is bad enough, the elements will overheat and trip the manual-reset overheat protector. The dryer will then run but there'll be no heat until the reset button behind the front panel is pressed. Shouldn't be any need to replace the heating elements (yes, there are two) unless something is actually wrong with them. Was there a confirmed problem with them, or was the repairman replacing them just trying to find a fix to the problem? Wrinkle free element? There's no "element" for that. (Or are you using the word "element" to mean "feature?") The dryer simply tumbles the clothes in unheated air for 30 seconds every 5 minutes, for a maximum of 256 tumble periods. It can't run more than 24 hrs. 5 mins x 256 = 1280 mins 30 secs x 256 = 7680 seconds 7680 seconds / 60 secs in a min = 128 mins 1280 mins + 128 mins = 1408 mins 1408 mins / 60 mins in an hr = 23.4 hrs...See MoreMastic for dryer vent duct
Comments (21)The reason for the post is because a plumber recently told me about mastic that could be used to assemble dryer vent ducting but he didn't mention a brand. I have run into homes where the main galvanized duct protrudes through the wall into the laundry room about 1/4 inch. It is damn near impossible to attach the transition duct to that and properly secure it with a clamp. I am trying to avoid cutting into the wall to add a duct extension, so that's the reason for the inquiry about mastic or duct adhesive. The added section would be directly behind the dryer, so the heat would be around 140 degrees or so. JB Weld?...See MoreCharles Ross Homes
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8 months agoCharles Ross Homes
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8 months agolast modified: 8 months agoCharles Ross Homes
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