Moving Laundry Room Uptairs
Lindsay Briner
last year
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Kendrah
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Moving a laundry room
Comments (0)I am moving to a house that is great except for the laundry room. The current room is more of a hallway. My nearly brand new dryer door cannot even open in this small room (I measured the room is 4 feet wide). I am planning on using the one that comes with the house (an old one from the 80's that has a door that is only 1 1/2 feet wide) until I can move the laundry room to a room across the hall. The current owners have a fridge and storage in there. What do I need to do to move the room? This is in the basement. Would it be better to move it to the garage which shares a wall with this room. I really want the laundry in the house. Any one know how costly this move will be? Help....See MoreShould I move my laundry room into my living room?
Comments (7)The powder room is very small and is sandwiched between the kitchen and living room. We cannot put it in the dining room nor the family room and don't want it to go in the kitchen. We considered an addition over the garage and that was pricey and would raise property taxes. I would love to have it in a master closet, but we have two small ones in there that barely fit our clothes. I even considered ripping out our huge corner tub in the master bath and putting the washer and dryer in there. The contractor explained that would involve a total remodel of that room and would be very expensive. I knew when we bought this house that this would be my one issue. I may just have to live with it :)...See MoreBasement laundry room move
Comments (0)I'm looking at possibly moving my washer/dryer to the other side of the basement, but I have a few questions. In addition to moving the laundry, I'd also like to add a lavatory (bar sink) just upstream of the laundry. I have above ground access to a 4inch waste line that runs along the basement floor. However, in order to tie my new line into the current line at this point, I'd have to run the new line (likely 3 inch) just above the old 4 inch line, then drop down to tie into the old waste line. Is this possible? I'd like to know before I waste my time with a permit application and discussion with an inspector. How would they connect? I'm envisioning a 3inch horizontal from the CW and lavatory traps, connecting to a sanitary tee with a cleanout, dropping down to a long sweep 4x3 wye to mate with the 4inch waste line. This is a bit of a complicated path for the waste to follow. Is it legit? If not, how could it be done so it follows code (I live in PA)? This is an old house (1915) and the basement will never be finished. I'm just trying to move the current set-up to a more favorable location. Also, for venting, I have access to a 4inch vertical in the basement that serves as the waste stack for a second floor bathroom set (WC, Lav, Bath/Shower). I'm assuming that I cannot tie into this for venting. I can run a vent line to the attic to tie into this same stack if necessary. I could also use AAVs for the basement lav and washer. For the basement lav, the distance between the trap and potential tie-in is ~30 feet. This line would serve no other fixtures other than the basement lav and CW....See MoreMoving the laundry room to a closet
Comments (8)Why would I have to open up the fall if I can fit the appliance through the existing door? IF you can get both appliances into the pantry (and I don't think that it is possible to do with the existing door opening), then you need room in front of the appliances so you can operate them. My laundry 'closet' is 53.5" deep with a 40" door opening and I know how restrictive that is. If I had only 45" of depth, I don't think the dryer door would open. I have conventional old school appliances. 29" wide dryer with fold down door & skinny Speed Queen top loader (<26" wide). ...realized by the time that's done I wouldn't be cutting the vent run down by much... Would venting the dryer through the roof eliminate any elbows? Do you have rigid (smooth) ducting or is it all flex vent? What is the length of the current run vs the thru-the-wall & Up option? Keep in mind that heated air rises so you'll gain some venting help when the vent goes vertical. Thru the wall and up will require just one elbow and possibly another 120 degree fitting (if you need to offset because of a wall extending above the roof of the garage. In calculating vent length equivalents, an elbow is equal to 5' of straight run length. So, if your current set-up has more than one elbow, you may be gaining more efficiency than you realize. If you have a lot of corrugated, flex duct, you'll benefit by replacing with smooth rigid venting. My venting scenario is awful. I had 4 elbows in about 12' of run. We were able to switch out one elbow for a 120 and replaced most of the flex w/ rigid duct. Still far from ideal but those changes made a significant difference in drying time. Even heavy loads like jeans (out of the SQ top loader) dry with one setting of the dryer (about 50 minutes.) Most other loads dry in 40 minutes. Synthetic loads in much less time. Before, I routinely timed out and had to reset the dryer a second time in order to get dry clothes....See MoreCharles Ross Homes
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