Hi Corry, Ah, I love these plants. Yours looks so pretty on that chair. It does look like it would benefit from a rest. That that's how I grow mine; I stop watering and let it go dormant for a month or up to three when it starts declining. If it were my plant, I'd split a small piece of it off, now, and repot that small piece in good, gritty, fast-draining soil, to see what that did for it. I'd let the larger piece go dormant, then repot it when there's stronger sun, in spring. In my experience, these are resilient plants, but they need a "time out" occasionally. What exposure are you growing yours in? Amanda

I'm going through issues with one of my Huernias. It got some meallybugs last fall. Got rid of the meallies, but the plant looks sad. I'm telling you this to let you know you're not alone in the problematic Huernia area:). I think your first and main problem is your soil has to many organic materials. How big is the sand particles? Sand drains, but holds onto moisture for way too long. Plus gets really compacted. Which is never a good thing. The humus I would not use for this plant. If you could get your hands on perlite I think that would help out a lot. Pumice is better IMO, but I know people have a hard time finding it. Is there a way you could get some grit? If you can't get these materials I think perlite is your best bet. It had its problems, but it does what you need and that's to DRAIN water:). Like I stated above I've had to pretty much turn a rooted Huernia into one big cutting. I did not use fungicide or rooting hormone. I'm not saying anything is wrong with these things I just haven't needed them. I cut till I see healthy flesh and let callus over in a cool dry area for a couple days. This step is important so your plant doesn't get rot or fungus. Then I put into peatless C&S soil combined with pumice. I don't water till my plant has roots.

Looks like sunburn to me. If they were inside and receiving not much light, a rather sudden increase, even if the lighting is indirect can cause sunburn. If the soil was on on dry side, it would make them even more prone to sun scald. Snake plants are one of the toughest indoor plants to be found. The damaged areas very unlikely to be fungal damage. You need a lots of humidity and little air movement for fungal problems to start. Snake plants have a very fibrous leaves with a heavy waxy coating that would make it hard for a fungal problem to take hold. The damaged areas may just turn dry or the the whole leaf may slowly fade away. As an ex professional plantscaper, when faced with a problem like this, the whole leaf would be removed with the cut being made at the soil line. Hope this helps.

Wrong soil for over watering. Soil is great if you never over water but that's why we use cactus soil mixed half with perlite. Once rot sets in, it is most deadly to the crown where the growth comes from. However, it usually sends up new sprouts (pups) that will continue to grow. Best guess from me is to let it continue to dry out and leave alone. If the soil is still damp, remove from pot onto papers and let totally dry out before placing back into pot. I wouldn't try to re-pot now because the stress is already too great. Cut off all the rot you can. Bright light and warmth will help out. Best of luck.