Plant Fritillary Bulbs for Something a Little Different
These unusual plants with unexpected colors and lance-like foliage add interest to lightly shaded garden beds
Marianne Lipanovich
October 19, 2017
Houzz Contributor. I'm a California-based writer and editor. While most of my projects are garden-based, you might also find me writing about home projects and classical music. Away from the computer, I'm found in the garden (naturally), on my bike, or ice-skating outdoors (yes, that is possible in California). I'm also willing to taste-test anything that's chocolate.
Houzz Contributor. I'm a California-based writer and editor. While most of my projects... More
All fritillaries (Fritillaria spp.) have bell-shaped dropping flowers, but otherwise you might never guess they’re related. Some, such as the imperial fritillary, are tall and in-your-face, while others, such as the checkered lily, are shorter and subtler. Some have clumps of leaves that reach half the height of the flower stalk, while others have more widely spaced foliage that blends in with the flower stalks. Even the color palette varies widely, from strong bright yellows, oranges and reds to subtle purples, mauves and browns.
Despite their differences, the care for these fritillaries is generally the same. Provide light shade and filtered sunlight and moist but not soggy soil, and these perennial bulbs will be happy for years to come.
Despite their differences, the care for these fritillaries is generally the same. Provide light shade and filtered sunlight and moist but not soggy soil, and these perennial bulbs will be happy for years to come.
Checkered lily, also called snake’s head fritillary
Botanical name: Fritillaria spp.
Common name: Fritillary
Origin: Found throughout the Northern Hemisphere in Europe, Asia and the West Coast of the United States
Bloom season: April to May for smaller ones; May to June for larger ones
Where it will grow: Hardy to minus 34 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 31.7 degrees Celsius, depending on species (USDA zones 4 to 9; find your zone)
Mature size: 6 inches to 4 feet tall and one-half foot to 1½ feet wide
Water requirement: Regular growing and blooming; see growing notes
Light requirement: Light shade
Bulb type: True bulb
Botanical name: Fritillaria spp.
Common name: Fritillary
Origin: Found throughout the Northern Hemisphere in Europe, Asia and the West Coast of the United States
Bloom season: April to May for smaller ones; May to June for larger ones
Where it will grow: Hardy to minus 34 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 31.7 degrees Celsius, depending on species (USDA zones 4 to 9; find your zone)
Mature size: 6 inches to 4 feet tall and one-half foot to 1½ feet wide
Water requirement: Regular growing and blooming; see growing notes
Light requirement: Light shade
Bulb type: True bulb
Benefits and tolerances: Fritillaries are a good choice for lightly shaded gardens. They prefer winter chill and cooler conditions, and often struggle where summers are dry and hot. They are also resistant to deer and squirrels as well as rodents.
When to plant: Plant in fall as soon as bulbs are available. Unlike most bulbs, fritillary bulbs should be spongy and soft-looking, rather than dry, when you plant them.
When to plant: Plant in fall as soon as bulbs are available. Unlike most bulbs, fritillary bulbs should be spongy and soft-looking, rather than dry, when you plant them.
Imperial fritillary
Distinguishing traits. The largest and best-known fritillary is the imperial (F. imperialis), also called the crown imperial. You can’t miss it, thanks to its masses of foliage and 3-foot-tall flower stalks. The stalks are topped by a circle of large yellow, orange or red flowers that hang from a crown of glossy green tufts.
The checkered lily, or snake’s head fritillary (F. meleagris), is also a popular choice. The shorter (to 1-foot-tall) flower stalks have fewer bell-like flowers in shades of purple, pink or white. Their checkered or veined patterns in red-purple give the bulb its common name.
Other species include F. acmopetala, F. affinis, F. biflora, F. camschatcensis, F. michailovskyi, F. pallidiflora, F. persica, F. raddeana and F. recurva. Check with mail-order sources if you can’t find them in nurseries or garden centers. Good sources include Brent and Becky’s, Easy to Grow Bulbs, Longfield Gardens, Old House Gardens, John Scheepers and White Flower Farm.
Note: The crown imperial fritillary has a musky fragrance that doesn’t appeal to everyone.
Distinguishing traits. The largest and best-known fritillary is the imperial (F. imperialis), also called the crown imperial. You can’t miss it, thanks to its masses of foliage and 3-foot-tall flower stalks. The stalks are topped by a circle of large yellow, orange or red flowers that hang from a crown of glossy green tufts.
The checkered lily, or snake’s head fritillary (F. meleagris), is also a popular choice. The shorter (to 1-foot-tall) flower stalks have fewer bell-like flowers in shades of purple, pink or white. Their checkered or veined patterns in red-purple give the bulb its common name.
Other species include F. acmopetala, F. affinis, F. biflora, F. camschatcensis, F. michailovskyi, F. pallidiflora, F. persica, F. raddeana and F. recurva. Check with mail-order sources if you can’t find them in nurseries or garden centers. Good sources include Brent and Becky’s, Easy to Grow Bulbs, Longfield Gardens, Old House Gardens, John Scheepers and White Flower Farm.
Note: The crown imperial fritillary has a musky fragrance that doesn’t appeal to everyone.
How to use it. Plant taller species, such as imperial, among other bulbs or near the back of a garden bed for a striking accent display. The smaller fritillaries are good choices for rock gardens and naturalizing in grasslands, wildflower gardens and meadows, or at the edge of woodland plantings. The smaller fritillaries are also charming when added to cut-flower bouquets. Don’t cut the larger fritillaries, as it will compromise bloom production.
Planting notes. Choose a spot in light or filtered shade with porous, well-draining soil that is well-amended with plenty of organic matter. Imperial and Persian fritillaries can also take full sun in cool-summer areas that are often overcast.
Set the smaller bulbs 3 to 4 inches deep and 6 inches apart; the largest ones should be 4 to 5 inches deep and 8 to 12 inches apart. Take care when handling the bulbs; they can be damaged easily. They also can cause skin reactions, so use gloves. Water well after planting.
Plant generously for a continuous display, and consider planting over several years; bulbs often take a year off to rest after planting or blooming.
Set the smaller bulbs 3 to 4 inches deep and 6 inches apart; the largest ones should be 4 to 5 inches deep and 8 to 12 inches apart. Take care when handling the bulbs; they can be damaged easily. They also can cause skin reactions, so use gloves. Water well after planting.
Plant generously for a continuous display, and consider planting over several years; bulbs often take a year off to rest after planting or blooming.
Growing notes. Provide regular water when plants are blooming and growing. The soil should remain moist but not soggy. Reduce water in summer as foliage dies back, but continue to provide some summer and fall moisture for most fritillaries. The exceptions are the checkered lily, which continues to need regular to moderate moisture throughout the summer; at the opposite end of the scale, the western U.S. natives, such as checker lily (F. affinis), chocolate lily (F. biflora) and scarlet fritillary (F. recurva), need no water until fall. Mulch will help control weeds and provide winter protection.
Feed with a balanced fertilizer after they bloom. Problems are few, although slugs and lily beetles can cause occasional damage. Bulbs can also rot if the soil is too soggy.
Dig and divide after the foliage fades if bloom production starts to fade or you wish to increase your plantings. The bulbs produce offsets, which can be broken off and replanted.
Feed with a balanced fertilizer after they bloom. Problems are few, although slugs and lily beetles can cause occasional damage. Bulbs can also rot if the soil is too soggy.
Dig and divide after the foliage fades if bloom production starts to fade or you wish to increase your plantings. The bulbs produce offsets, which can be broken off and replanted.
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Have never seen any of these in the midwest...very unique flowers...
I recently planted the Imperial Crown and I can't wait for it to come up next year. Hopefully it does. Along with my giant Allium. Those bulbs were HUGE!