You can hardly tell a difference between off and on! What type of bulb is in there? Grab a higher wattage LED. The wattage rating on the fan is for incandesant and for fire risk because the high watt incandesant gets very hot. High wattage LED (equivalent) does not get near as hot.I am guessing you have a 60 watt in there and would benefit from a 100 watt equivalent LED. I recently installed recessed lights to accompany my fan/light in the living room. The bedrooms have fan/lights and the light is adequate with 100 watt LED bulbs. I would recommend both in a large room if you can as recessed tend to be spot lights and a central light fixture takes care of shadows that recessed lights miss.

That never occurred to me either. That problem didn't arise the two times I installed chandelier LED retrofits, but they were both fairly low-end store-brand fans. BTW, the LED bulb actually isn't the same wattage. The big print on the package is "equivalent incandescent wattage." LED retrofits typically use about 1/10 to 1/5 of the original bulb's power. And that may be the problem. Your fan controller may get confused by the retrofit's very low current consumption. This might be comparable to what happened to me when I installed retrofit LEDs in my car's parking lights and tail lights. (I got annoyed with repeatedly replacing the incandescent bulbs. Why is it that factory bulbs last 6-8 years and replacements last 1-2 years at most?). I looked out in the driveway that night and the taillights were glowing faintly. Spooky! Turns out that cars no longer have real switches for most (all?) lights. The switch you flip or turn just signals the body computer, which does the actual control of the lights with a semiconductor switch. Unlike a real switch, which has essentially infinite resistance when open, the semiconductor has measurable resistance. Without wanting to get too technical here, I'll just say that the LEDs' current draw was so low that a significant voltage remained across them when the "switch" was supposed to be off. In your case, I guess you could buy a new fan controller from Minka Aire, but it might not be worth the expense. If the fan were mine, I'd probably do some research on whether the controller was actually needed. If possible, I might just scrap it (or sell it used on Ebay) and connect both fan and light directly to old fashioned analog wall controls. But that's me. Sometimes I'm kind of a Luddite about such things.

Michelle misses Sophie, air leakage from a can light into unconditioned space can be mitigated. My attic is directly under my living space, and my house came with about five recessed can lights from the 70s. I had the Energy Star program in to seal and insulate my house, and as a part of the program, they put these big styrofoam buckets over each recessed light. That way, air movement is stopped from moving from living to unconditioned space. In my state (MA), any contractor that comes after the Energy Star program is required to insulate their work to Energy Star's standards. I'm not at all worried about putting can lights into my upcoming kitchen reno.

The lights are IC rated and airtight - we have around 35-40 of them on the project. I really don't like the look of surface mounted disc lights and the canless wafer are touted because of their ease of installation, making them less expensive as compared to typical recessed lights with a can/housing. The electrician added the step of installing plastic cover boxes so insulation didn't fall on them when they cut the holes in. I thought there must be a way to eliminate this extra step since they had estimated its cost as $950 for the covers. I was looking for another method and it looks like the tool that RES2 mentioned below would have done the trick. Just wanted to know more about solutions for future client projects. Thank you to everyone for their comments - you've all been very helpful!