New Construction - Install CANLESS (wafer) recessed LED ceiling lights
Westwood Interior Designs, Inc.
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Recessed Lighting cost $65 per can - new construction?
Comments (26)I'd say that's pretty standard, if not cheap. My Dad is an electrician so he wired our entire house. I'm not paying for any labour or up-charged prices, just materials. I recall him saying they were somewhere in the $40's and that's just for the lights (and all that fancy box stuff that goes in the ceiling) not including wiring and labour. I have a TON of recessed lighting in my house. Not only do I like it, but I wanted minimal cleaning of light fixtures. I'd say I have upwards of 30 just on my main floor not including the ones outside in the soffit and over the porch. Mine aren't LED though, I hate LED for indoor lighting....See MoreIntegrated LED Recessed Ceiling Light
Comments (30)If you look closely at the photos of the fixtures, you will see that the Nora Cobalt is a "retrofit" type fixture (like the Halo the OP originally asked about) where the driver, heatsink and LED board are in one compact "trim" unit that is installed in a standard metal housing used for various kinds of fixtures. If the fixture fails, the "trim" unit would need to be replaced. The Lightolier LyteCaster L3 is a modular design with the driver (step-down transformer and current stabilizer) mounted in the housing and the light unit and heat sink fits into the "trim". If the fixture fails or the color dims, the appropriate part can be replaced. The parts can also be upgraded. These fixtures need a more substantial heat sink because the COB chips are more compact than the typical SMD chips. The Nora Cobalt is intended for residential use and the Lightolier LyteCaster L3 is intended for residential and light commercial use. I recommended them because they are both more powerful than typical LED recessed fixtures, are more deeply recessed, have an adjustable beam angle and use a superior COB LED. The L3 also has a great wall-washer for a more uniform light on a wall but it costs another $20+. There are no bargains in good lighting....See MoreNew Construction: LED Bulb vs. LED Fixture
Comments (31)LED lights on a house circuit require a "driver" to change 120 volt AC to low voltage DC and protect the LEDs from fluctuations in voltage and current that can cause the diodes to vary in output or degrade faster due to high temperatures within the diodes. This is especially important inside of a small recessed light fixture. In an integral LED recessed fixture the "driver" is a small brick-like thing in the housing external from the rest of the fixture with a wire to the "light engine" which is the diode array sandwiched between a lens and a cast metal heatsink. The life of such a light is usually rated at 50,000 hours ... whatever that means. An LED lamp (commonly called a "light bulb") is similar but has an internal miniaturized driver in its base connected to an array of diodes behind a frosted lens. Some have a metal surround with holes that acts as a heat sink but more commonly they rely on the wide spacing of the diodes and the closeness of the lamp to the fixture opening to reduce the chance of overheating. These lamps usually have a rated life of 25,000 hours but often fail much sooner. If you pay $15 for a PAR 20 LED lamp and $24 for the appropriate dimmer it might take a long time to break even unless you're putting the PAR 20's in existing 5" fixtures....See MoreIs there any benefit to new construction housing for recessed lights?
Comments (13)The final recessed fixture count is 219 ranging from 2" to a few 6". The design was based on modeling each room with specific lux level goals. I think in retail stores you can get away with using very large, very high lumen fixtures so you get high output with fewer fixtures. I wanted fixtures as small as possible, but it means I need more of them to get the output and uniformity I'm after. But maybe I'm missing some other obvious solution. If I can get mouting plates for $2 each, then I'm definitely willing to use these. It seemed like lighting manufacturers were insisting I had to use their specific mounting plates, and the ones I was seeing were $20-30, which in some cases increased the cost of the fixtures by 50%. For example, I'm looking at these Keystone 4" lights for $40 where the mouting plate is listed at $24: https://www.prolighting.com/brands/keystone-technologies/downlights2/kt-rdled16ps-4b-9csf-vdim.html For spray foam, I should have been more clear. I came across an IC-rated housing that said it was specifically rated for spray foam so I started doing some digging because I had assumed all IC rated housings (and fixtures) were rated for spray foam. I'm finding that "IC" rated may not necessarily be enough for spray foam insulation. The housing needs to specify that it's IC rated *for* spray foam. I don't know if this is true or not and I'm not sure what's required by code. Maybe it's just a marketing ploy. https://www.houzz.com/discussions/4816984/recessed-cans-rated-for-direct-contact-with-closed-cell-spray-foam https://www.cooperlighting.com/global/brands/halo/683469/h995icatcp-4-icat-cp-rated-new-construction-housing This is the most authoritative document I can find on this topic and it does explain it well: https://www.nema.org/standards/view/polyurethane-foam-application-lighting-equipment...See Moreres2architect
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoWestwood Interior Designs, Inc. thanked res2architectWestwood Interior Designs, Inc.
2 years agoWestwood Interior Designs, Inc.
2 years agoJeffrey R. Grenz, General Contractor
2 years agoWestwood Interior Designs, Inc. thanked Jeffrey R. Grenz, General ContractorWestwood Interior Designs, Inc.
2 years agoPPF.
2 years agoWestwood Interior Designs, Inc.
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agodchall_san_antonio
2 years ago
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