If you look at the Modern-Aire site, they have several shapes where the front tapers at the top to the depth of an upper cabinet, and the sides are straight so as to butt up to, and cover, the yellow cabinet sides you mentioned. Their typical sizes are 18" and 30" high, but you could get a 24" custom one if your budget allows. Or you could get an 18" and have a box made for above it to cover that area and to which you could attach replacement moulding. The box could be made of either wood matching your moulding or sheetrock. Vent-a-hood has a stainless direct replacement if you decide to stick with the same size you now have. I'm attaching the link to the Modern-Aire page that shows their shapes. PS-10, PS-11, and PS-26 all have the characteristics I was talking about above. Here is a link that might be useful: Modern-Aire Hoods

>>> would a recirculating hood such as a Broan cbd330 make much of a difference in grease and odors vs no hood at all?<<< >>>I also know what CO is and why I should care about it.<<< >>>Our house is old and far from airtight.Is my hunch that this recirculating hood won't do much good right? Would it mitigate eau de cabbage stew any better than cracking a few windows?<<< My initial reactions to using that Broan without venting to the outside are these: that your Broan may help a bit with some aerosolized cooking grease (although the hood design means that a lot will not be captured); that the Broan may serve as a surface for condensing vapor but will be otherwise ineffective in dealing with vaporous combustion byproducts and steam, much less the odor/stench of boiled cabbage; and that it will do nothing about CO which you should not need to worry about, anyway. For removing odors when boiling cabbage etc., you might have better luck with the windows, particularly if you can toss-in a box fan or window fan for those occasions. CO emissions from modern gas ranges should be barely detectable with sophisticated equipment -- far below hazard levels --- unless somebody has really screwed with your burner adjustments The combustion byproducts from the burners are rather more smoglike with the principal components being CO2 and NO2. The Dept. of Energy in conjunction with the EPA published a study on air quality in kitchens with "unvented" gas ranges and the effectiveness of realtively affordable venting a couple of years ago. The result was some overblown media attention. It also got some interesting commentary here which you can find at this link if you are interested: http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2304651/ny-times-the-kitchen-as-a-pollution-hazard The idea of getting a convertible hood and later installing outside venting is not a bad one. I'm guessing that you are not currently venting because your stove currently sits on an interior wall and you all have been stumped on how to get outside venting without a full kitchen remodel to relocate the stove. Is that correct? That's a problem I had with my old-house kitchen and I discovered numbers of relatively easy ways to go up from a vent and run ducting over to the nearest exterior wall through a cabinet. This was easy for me because the interior wall behind my stove butted into an exterior wall and because I didn't mind the somewhat industrial look of the ducting. Might or might not be that easy for your old house-kitchen and the look might or might not work for you. Having said that, the 30" Broan cbd330 may not be the best choice. It seems to be a low-rise hood which does not project very far out from the wall, and it has a flat base rather than a canopy. As kas has often pointed out, an actual canopy gives better coverage and capture and can be a significant part of the effectiveness of a range hood. Even better when the hood extends a bit wider than the stove. (Better still when the hood also has enough depth to extend as far out as the front of the stove, too.) Basically, the flat base on the Broan means that the unit depends entirely on fan-power to collect vapors, grease, and etc., The Broan has relatively low fan capacity. (250 CFM?) You might want to consider taking that unit back and swapping it for something with a canopy and, if it will fit, something 36" wide. Again, that may or may not work in your kitchen. My old-house kitchen was such that I also had to resort to a low-rise hood with a flat bottom rather than a canopy. We work with the kitchens we have.

I have a Bosch dishwasher which replaced the Bosch dishwasher I purchased in 2004. The old dishwasher was still working great but since I was doing a gut remodel, I decided to just go ahead and get the new one installed especially since I decided to go with a paneled version. I also have a Bosch induction cooktop and side opening oven. I specifically did NOT go with the Bosch refrigerator as the sales person advised me against it because he said the interior now had a lot of plastic. He instead recommended KA, Jennair or GE Profile. He didn't have any particular reason to steer me away from the Bosch refrigerator or to the other brands which he recommended instead.

Things you might have noticed in your reading: Hood should overlap the cooking area by a few inches Airflow should be of the order of 90 CFM per sq. ft. of hood entry aperture for residential style hoods Calculated air flow requirement from above should be 2/3 of the blower's (zero static pressure) CFM rating, more or less depending on myriad factors Duct size should keep max power flow velocity in the 1000 to 2000 ft/min range Noise can be reduced by one or more of these mechanisms: Using a remote blower with a long duct in-between; not applicable to going directly out the wall Using a remote blower with a silencer in-between; not applicable to going directly out the wall Using a more powerful than needed proximate outside wall or in-hood blower and running on part power Using a larger blade external blower with appropriate motor and gearing for the required CFM (applicable to up-blast commercial roof blowers) Hood performance and efficiency improve with the degree to which they emulate commercial hoods, given the limitations of residential kitchen architectures. This means having volume under the baffles, using true double reversing baffles, having low resistance, low turbulence air flow above baffle area to the ducting. I am not familiar with Hauslane, and in any case do not try to rate hoods I haven't used, so I'm limited to Wolf, and in particular to their Pro Island hoods. No air leaves the kitchen via the hood that doesn't get supplied to the kitchen. The supply is called make-up air. Read MUA threads here. For best hood performance at the levels that the hood air flow should be able to reach, deliberate MUA is needed, not house leakage. Whether this results in an expensive complex system or a modest cost simple system will depend on factors that will be obvious from reading MUA threads.