Is deep root fertilization really better for trees?
ostrich
2 years ago
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Deep root fertilization
Comments (2)If your soil is properly prepared and maintained there would be no need to do that....See MoreDeep root fertilization, helpful or scam?
Comments (14)Ok, I know this is an old post. I still find it interesting non the less. On the subject of deep root zone fert injections, it really depends on what your goals and expectations, and how the work is performed. Smaller trees can benifit from a root zone injection, but it has to be put in the right place, if injected to deep it will do no good, if injected to shallow it has a possibility of burning out grass if in a turf area. The best injections are done in non turf area where the probe is barely inserted in the ground. This would be about 2 to 3 inches, or even common in shrub bed ares to to a surface drench. Certain insecticides are better suited for injections then any other way since it reduces the drift and off target applications. Often larger trees the only affective way to treat the whole tree is to either do a soil injection or a trunk injection. For fertilizer it would be a soil injection, insecticides would best be a trunk injection. Most larger trees however wont show much difference when fertilized unless they had a specific problem that caused decline of the crown when fertilizer would have some benefits. Now with that being said would fertilizer help this tree? If to much moister is the problem then fertilizer won't help it, just like if it were to dry fert also would not make better. Trees need a specific amount of water to function right, if the tree is subject to too much or too little it will become stressed and cause the tree to become susceptible to disease and insects. A healthy tree does better then a weak tree. With that said a little fertilizer would help the tree in the sort term, but would do nothing for these overall health. Now the best thing for this tree, and others with similar issues would be to move the tree to a suitable location. Water the tree as needed, trim tree back slightly to help increase growth, and fertilize as needed to help the tree reestablished. For the old spot that has a lot of moisture pick a plant that loves water. It will help dry out the area so ther things will grow better. Just watch the plant since during dry times you might have to water it if the area become too dry for the new plant. Proper cultural practices go along way to avoid costly applications of fungicides, insecticides, and fertilizers. My knowledge comes from 13 years in the tree and lawn industry. I have extensive experience in tree trimming, planting, fertilizing, and applying fungicides/insecticides. I tell customers what they should really do even if it means not getting the sale. Since they see my honesty and will turn to me next time they need something done since the see me as a person not trying to scam them. I know other people in the industry don't act the same, so be Leary of someone that tells you this is the problem, but we won't fix that we will do something else instead. That ge like going to the dr he tells you, you have a broken leg. So let's increase your fiber intake. Just doesn't make sence. I hope my reply helps anyone else that may end up on this site....See MoreConcept: One root system for better growth ... and, Mint Tree
Comments (8)balloonflower, I will be regularily trimming growth before it yellows. florauk, It will be going into a giant container (about 5 times in size) as soon as it is adaquately filled with roots. The mint will be in a south facing window with direct unobstructed sun light for about 6 hours in a day, the rest of the day there will be indirect bright light (Approx 5000 - 20000 lux). I will also be supplimenting CFL light on top of that; a 45W bulb on each plant, which will be on 18hrs/day. This will generate an additional 10000-20000 lux for each plant. As for the winter rest, I'm not sure. If I have to burn it out to find out what happens, then sobeit, but I dont want to leave this plant out all winter and chance its death. Here is a picture of both plants:...See MoreRoot-Knot Nematodes in Z8b FL? Also own-root Austin roses fertilizing?
Comments (2)You don't have to test for nematodes. You have them. We all have them. They will eventually kill your roses if they aren't grafted, and even roses grafted onto the best rootstocks will die eventually. This is a technique for planting that will hold them off for awhile, but not forever. It really is best to plant Fortuniana grafted roses in FL, though, and even they don't live forever. Your own-root roses have about 5 years before they will die. I hate to be harsh, but that's my experience and that of many northerners who move down here and plant their favorite northern roses on their own roots. Dig a hole 3x the diameter of the pot you're transplanting from, or about 20 inches for bare roots. Dig it 3 inches deeper than you want the plant to sit. Fill the bottom three inches with straight organic peat, put your rose in and add peat until you get it to the right height, then fill the entire rest of the hole with organic peat. (Organic peat is not the same as peat moss). Nematodes hate organic matter, so this will keep them away from the roots, but not forever. It will stave them off for a few years, though, until the organic peat breaks down. I don't know any more about growing roses, just this. I'm sure someone will come along and help you who knows more. I do know some OGRs (Old Garden Roses) will grow on their own roots here....See Moreostrich
2 years agoJohn D Zn6a PIT Pa
2 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 years agoJohn D Zn6a PIT Pa
2 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 years agoJohn D Zn6a PIT Pa
2 years agoGardeningTeenager
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)