There should not be any problems with a 2 bucket watering system. Here is my home made SWC for my Peppadew. In the middle I have a platform to keep the soil above the water line then in the middle of the platform there is a hole then I took a Gatorade bottle cut it in 1/2 with the mouth of the bottle facing the bottom then poked 3 holes around the top and left the cap off and attached to the platform under the hole. Used MG Orchid mix as my wicking mix. then there is enough space to add water from the top to the bottom, also punch a hole in the side as my over flow to spill out any additional water. the straw that is coming out of the top is for oxygen to get down to the water. The holes in the leaves from slugs, we have many around here and they seem to be good climbers.

I don't know why you'd want a mechanical engineer to look at a house. They deal with mechanical systems and don't know anything about residential construction unless it's their hobby. There are many types of civil engineers. A structural engineer is one type of type of civil engineer. Not my quote, but I like it: What is the difference between Mechanical Engineers and Civil Engineers? Mechanical Engineers build weapons. Civil Engineers build targets. If you are going to use an engineer as an inspection service, make sure they are from an outfit like this (attached). The PE/structural engineer we used to check beam sizes, roof loads, etc., is also a builder. We know someone that worked on a house with him. The guy couldn't execute on details. DH is a civil engineer and a licensed builder. They don't teach window istallation, flashing, siding, roofing, etc., in engineering programs. You can't assume PE = builder = inspector. In fact, I would bet that is rarely the case. Here is a link that might be useful: PEs and Inspection Services

Finally able to post an update... unfortunately our phone lines (which include internet) went down for three days only to be followed with the entire house coming down with the flu this week. Andy-- Yes, we have a guage at the pump. We have a 30/50 and the pressure switch seems to be in proper working order. I am told 3/4" plumbing. Justalurker-- the problem was not from day one, it was a gradual occurrence. Everything checked out as far as the way it was plumbed and with the bypass valve knobs. However, when we moved on to removing the element on the sediment filter, our pressure returned to normal. So our plan for tomorrow is to locate and install a 4.5" x 20" big blue with pressure gauges installed before and after... I realized after tonights troubleshooting (and further research on the web) that the existing filter is closer in size to the little blue filter when it should have been the big blue size that you suggested to me in a previous post. Also, after searching "filters" in other posts, I came across this information you posted regarding filter changes: "Filter elements should be changed when the pressure drop across the filter approaches 15 psi not by a calendar. you change the oil in your car according to mileage not months." So I will follow this recommendation unless you suggest otherwise. Thank you for the information on the filters bus driver. It would be great to only have to change our filter every 11 months. I am not sure how much of a need we have for the filter but based on the looks of the element after a month of use, it seems like a good idea. Also, I was told it was a must in our (Florida) location. Thanks again to all... your help and patients is greatly appreciated.

I'm trying to avoid messing with the wells, unless absolutely necessary. Only one well has been a problem, but I can see a second well around the side of the house get REAL close during those monsoons. If a new gasket would work, it's a <$100 solution... if I have to dig, it suddenly becomes a $10k+ issue.