New Water Softener Causing Decreased Water Pressure

12 years ago

After the recent install of our Fleck 7000SXT we have noticed a decrease in the water pressure throughout the house. So much so, that we have to be careful not to flush a toilet or run any additional water while someone is using the shower. It is becoming quite a problem with two teens in the house and we need to figure out a solution as soon as possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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toukeki
Original Author

12 years ago

Finally able to post an update... unfortunately our phone lines (which include internet) went down for three days only to be followed with the entire house coming down with the flu this week.

Andy-- Yes, we have a guage at the pump. We have a 30/50 and the pressure switch seems to be in proper working order. I am told 3/4" plumbing.

Justalurker-- the problem was not from day one, it was a gradual occurrence. Everything checked out as far as the way it was plumbed and with the bypass valve knobs. However, when we moved on to removing the element on the sediment filter, our pressure returned to normal. So our plan for tomorrow is to locate and install a 4.5" x 20" big blue with pressure gauges installed before and after... I realized after tonights troubleshooting (and further research on the web) that the existing filter is closer in size to the little blue filter when it should have been the big blue size that you suggested to me in a previous post.

Also, after searching "filters" in other posts, I came across this information you posted regarding filter changes: "Filter elements should be changed when the pressure drop across the filter approaches 15 psi not by a calendar. you change the oil in your car according to mileage not months." So I will follow this recommendation unless you suggest otherwise.

Thank you for the information on the filters bus driver. It would be great to only have to change our filter every 11 months. I am not sure how much of a need we have for the filter but based on the looks of the element after a month of use, it seems like a good idea. Also, I was told it was a must in our (Florida) location.

Thanks again to all... your help and patients is greatly appreciated.

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Comments (10)

User
12 years ago
Was this a problem from day one or has it just happened?

Make ABSOLUTELY sure that the softener is plumbed correctly. That is, that the service (in) and return (out) are not reversed at the softener.

Check that the bypass valve knobs on the 7000SXT are set to full service and not partially turned. The bypass has to have BOTH knobs oriented correctly. Look in the 7000 manual for a diagram.

If neither of those things are wrong then set the softener bypass on bypass and see if full water pressure returns to the house. If full pressure returns to the house with the softener on bypass then something is wrong IN the softener. Call the dealer who sold and installed it.

Let us know what you find...
andy_c
12 years ago
I assume you are on well water, right? Does your pressure tank have a pressure gauge? What is the high/low range? What size plumbing do you have? 3/4"? 1/2" to the faucets?
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Fixing the running toilet fixed the usage problem and the softener appears to be functioning perfect, which I guess begs the question, is it OK to leave the check valve in? It does not appear to be restricting flow in any way (valve shows maximum SFR to date of 13.9 gpm) and I don't think it is creating any back pressure. Wouldn't the check valve actually prevent any back pressure from reaching the valve and resin tank and in turn protect the resin tank and valve? Say for instance that the expansion tank was malfunctioning for whatever reason, and the water heater kicked on and created a brief expansion that drove the psi up to say 150 psi and that back pressure pulse was pushed back to the check valve since the expansion tank didn't work correctly. Wouldn't the check valve slam shut and prevent this back pressure from reaching the resin tank and valve? If the normal line pressure on either side of the check valve is the ambient 60-70 psi of the system under normal conditions and a back pressure pulse of 150 psi comes from the water heater side of the installation, isn't that precisely the set of conditions that would cause the check valve to close and keep the pulse on the water heater side of the system? I realize that with check valve in place and the theoretical malfunctioning of the expansion tank, the pressure pulse will seek some method of escaping which could cause damage somewhere in the house like a faucet or toilet, but at least it will not have blown the resin tank or destroyed the control valve, correct? I hope this rationalization makes sense, but I'm not sure that I have done a very good job of positing my questions or explaining the scenarios. Oh well. Take a swing at it if anyone feels like it. I am interested to hear some opinions on this one. I'm thinking more potential bad will come from disassembling a functioning, dripless install than from keeping the check valve in place. Thanks. Drew
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User
12 years ago
Here's the original thread... http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/plumbing/msg101326599945.html
User
12 years ago
If you still have the sediment filter installed between the water pump and softener remove the element and leave the housing empty. That can easily be causing your pressure loss.

Unless you have a sediment problem you don't need the filter. If you must have it then install pressure gauges before and after the filter housing so you can monitor the pressure loss across the filter and KNOW when it needs to have the element changed.
toukeki
Original Author
12 years ago
Thanks andy and justalurker for responding. I just got in and read your posts. I'll get back to you with answers as soon as I can. Thanks again.
bus_driver
12 years ago
It is to be noted that the pressure drop across a filter will show on the gauges only with water flowing through the filter, water being used in the residence. Unless the filter is completely clogged, the pressures on both sides of the filter will be the same when no water is flowing.
My well produces both "sand" and finer matter. For good or bad, I have a 25 micron filter plus a 5 micron filter in series. The pressure drop is not much until the filters are really clogged. They require changing about every 11 months. Water for the outside faucets is taken from the 25 micron filter as the sand clogged and ruined a lawn sprinkler once. Household water is from the 5 micron output.
peoplelover
12 years ago
As your water has to go through all that salt and resin it often reduces the water flow. I highly recommend the Scalewatcher hard water treatment system. It is electronic, and very easy to install, requiring no adjustments to the plumbing- and no bags of salt.
I am thrilled with the efficacy of this machine- (and it's maintenance free). I got it from
aquagenesisusa.com - good customer service, great deals and free shipping

Here is a link that might be useful: Aqua Genesis
asolo
12 years ago
No end to the pricks.
User
12 years ago
Glad you found the problem and it sounds like you have the solution. When it comes to whole house filters... go BIG or don't filter.

Some high quality pleated filters can be cleaned and reused.

New Water Softener Causing Decreased Water Pressure

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New Water Softener Causing Decreased Water Pressure

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