Learned something about bluebirds today
3 years ago
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I learned something new today. . .
Comments (3)Hi Debi..Common names can be a pain in the........! If you Google Grape Ivy, you'll find numerous nurseries who interchange the common name, Grape and Oak Leaf Ivy. But as far as being a true Ivy, nope. GI's are in the Cissus family. I'm thinking you're confusing Hedera Helix, common ivy..Is that it? There's a good number of plants in the Cissus family, but IMO, unlike edible grapes, Cissus rhombifolia/GI, will thrive in less sun than their relative, Cissus, 'grape/fruiting' plants. Grapes need sun to develop. GI doesnt' flower or fruit. If you read the post I listed on your other thread, 'Google links,' you'll see what I mean. Do you have a picture of your new GI? Debi, Grape Ivy was one of about 10 plants I started growing indoors, longgg ago. LOL. God, brings back memories. The first plant book I purchased is called, Hyponex Plants. I read, reread, and rereread that book from cover to cover, so often, the copy I now have is copy 3. The first books pages were worn and fell out of the binder. Copy two somehow was lost. Copy 3 was bought on Ebay for 1.00. As a newbie, I followed Hyponex instruction care to a T. Here's what it says about Grape Ivy. Grape Ivy, (Cissus rhombifolia) is thought to be a diehard. Actually, it only tolerates and survives neglect. To become a truly beautiful plant, which it should be, it has preferences worth catering to. Avoid severly dry soil and drafts of hot, dry air on the leaves. If you hang GI, do not hang in a warm, heated room. It will grow in a dry atmosphere if temps are on the cool side. Mist leaves daily, and shower with tepid water once a month to keep them clean. Kangaroo vine, a relative, is treated elsewhere in this book. Other cissus worth growing include, C. adenopoda, (fuzzy leaf) C. discolor, and C. striata, (mini) Light: Ideal is 2-3 hours of sun in winter: adapts to light in a north window. Grows well under fluorescent light. Since you're in z5, a north window, unless super-sunny, might not be adequate. Then again, if you allow GI to go dormant, (less water, no fert) it should be okay. Forceing a plant to grow while dormant will cause spindly growth, and possible disease. Good luck, and if you have a picture, please post..Toni...See MoreLearned something about climbers...
Comments (8)Another thing about climbers that I've found is... Climbing sports of bush roses generally do not repeat bloom as well as the bush form. They apparently spend more time trying to climb, taking energy away from blooming. That's why I only use climbers that are just climbers. And Campanula, it's funny you mentioned the thing about the passion flower vines. I used to have one, and everybody at my work wanted cuttings. I always remember one of the girls telling me how when she took it home, she had the cutting in a little plastic container of water on her dashboard. It was a fairly long piece of stem I gave her, and one of the tendrils had reached up and grabbed her passenger-side visor and was happily hanging on til she got home. I always thought that was so funny....See MoreI think I learned something today
Comments (7)Raven, What kind of mix are you using? When I get cuttings, I typically put them in a mix with equal parts coir and perlite, or 1/3 each coir, perlite and orchid bark. I keep them pretty moist until I'm sure they're rooted. Right now, I'm rooting a purpueo-fusca that's only node was where the only leaves were, with a stem below that that's about 8" long. I cut it back to about 5" and put it in a pot and I pulled it out today and see some roots forming at the very end of the stem. It's been 16 days since I put it in the medium (which did include the orchid bark this time...) The baggie method isn't very reliable for me. I seem to nearly always get mold before I get roots. Have you tried a "rooting pot", having several cuttings in one pot? Or rooting in with already established plants? You'll find something that works for you with time. Don't be too frustrated... You'll be an old pro at this in a few years! That's not to say it'll TAKE you a few years to figure it out - I just mean YOU will be the one giving advice before long! Denise in Omaha...See MoreI learned something new today from the vets office
Comments (15)Our cat, Heather, has small-cell lymphoma requiring pilling of prednisolone twice a day and a chemo pill four days out of 21. The first pred was purchased from the vet, 60 pills for $20.70 plus tax. I decided to check PetMeds and the cost for 100 pills, including shipping, was $26.00. I placed my order on a Friday and on the following Monday got an email from PetMeds saying they hadn't received the script from the vet yet. Called the vet and they told me they hadn't received a request from PetMeds. So called PetMeds and they said they would re-send the FAX. The next day, Tuesday, I called the vet and finally they said it had been FAXed back to PetMeds. But, by then, I needed some pred to tide me over until the PetMeds pills arrived and asked for 12. Went to pick them up on Wed. and the cost was $20,70 (plus tax). I asked how many - was told 30. I then asked for just 12 and was told the price was the same. So, then I said, give me 60 as I paid that for 60 last time. Then I was told that they could only dispense 30 as the vet was on vacation (there are 8 vets total in the clinic) and no other vet could prescribe. So, I called PetMeds and they overnighted the 100 pills to me and I told the vet's office to forget it. I can only figure out that they have just one price for the pills, up to 60. Anyway, I'm a big fan of PetMeds now. And the chemo pill has to be bought at a pharmacy. RiteAid wanted $33 for 4 pills. Costco's price was 1/2 the cost. So, check around. We found, with a cat who had CRF (now deceased) that lactated ringers were $24 for 12 at Costco and the vet charged $14 for one....See More- 3 years ago
- 3 years ago
- 3 years ago
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