I think it would be ok to go wall to wall and have a filler that goes down to the top of the legs. 2.5 inches is teeny to get to those things that roll off the top. My question about the design is the short legs and vacuuming underneath them. The 2.5 inch space on the sides will be extra hard to get to. I'd consider doing a recessed toe kick across behind the legs for ease of cleaning. One other thing you might consider is whether you could use the 5 inches in the room on the other side of the wall. It could be a niche or built in storage of some kind. I don't see a good use for the 5 inches on the bathroom side of the wall. The shower area in there looks amazing, what is the size of it?

The whole home dehumidifier (attached to your HVAC system) will do the trick. Installing the wood flooring in the spring or the fall (the shoulder seasons) will certainly help. New windows that block a tremendous amount of UV (75% block is probably where you want to be in CA). As for yellowing, stay away from maple...it turns yellow just by turning on an overhead light. And yes it is normally the finish that yellows and not the wood species (maple and cherry being the two notable exceptions for local species that are photo sensitive). And if you want to stay away from yellowing (we are assuming you want a factory finish) then new windows would be an excellent place to start (75% UV block will pretty much do the trick). And for LVP...it doesn't like heat. In fact it does some REALLY strange things when direct sunlight hits the floor. The ROOM temperature might be 85 F (which is too high for LVP) but the sunlight on the FLOOR can be 115 F or higher. LVP is vinyl. Vinyl melts when it gets to hot. As it heats up and then cools down (day time high to night time low), it warps and discolours. Some vinyl products turned purplish-black when exposed to too much heat (anything over 85 F is excessive for indoor furnishings). To stop the EXCESSIVE heat, you will want new windows. The 75% UV block would be the lowest you would go (which is a mid-range product...not super cheap but not super expensive either). You could look at the best of the best = 95% UV block (indoor plants die at this level of UV block) if you are really interested in LVP and keeping the home cool. Laminate has few issues with direct heat...but even laminate has limits. Some will fade in direct sunlight that is SUPER hot. You will void the warranty on the laminate once the home temps reach higher than 85 F. And again the humidity needs to be between 40% - 60% for laminate. To block some of that heat (you guessed it), you will want to look at new windows. For laminate, the entry level UV block of 45% - 50% is going to be "good enough".

uh, those of you saying 'let it go' (the pattern goof), and 'it's good enough',,,huh? If i'm paying good money for a difficult pattern layout (and herringbone is one of the most difficult patterns to lay,,,,correctly) then i'm going to need it done right. Newfie stjohn,,,,by chance, were you charged extra money for this layout? you should have. takes 4X as long to do this layout than a standard one. So I'll ask opinions about that. If a customer pays extra money for a difficult layout to be done, but there is a mistake in the layout, should any consolation be given? I"ve taken hours to dry-lay tiles on the floor in order to get the best layout. I'm sure it was just an oversight on the tilers part because all he had to do was switch directions. It wouldn't have been anymore work for him to do it correctly. And if he had done the dry layout first, he could have adjusted the starting point so that he didn't end up w/tiny triangles in the corner. That's a no-no when doing herringbone. I'll also add, that if this was unavoidable from the tilers point of view, should he have mentioned it to the customer? (but I can guarantee, this was not. a dry run would have shown this). This would also be a nice lesson for the tiler. How else will he learn and get better? no one is saying to 'harass' the PM. And just janni,,,The fact that you state this group on Houzz is judgmental is really ironic. don't you think?! I never said the shower didn't look good. OP was concerned about changing grout colors for heavens sake. I told her it looks fine. I just mentioned the pattern was off in corner. I never told her to have it torn out for a redo, nor did I advise her to go to battle w/the tile or GC! Geez people. I'd prob just live with it if it were mine. Perhaps I look at quality of work in a different manner. Yes, I'm sure she can live with it and I'm sure no one will even notice. But, it's her money.

@qam999 and @mcarroll16, notice I did not call out specific items good/bad or agree/disagree, just a general statement. It does feel that the OP is getting hammered by some of the same repeated comments that are stamped to suburban U.S. houses, which may not be warranted here, especially with so little information. Also not that either of you have here, but often so many commenters say their piece but they cannot even read drawings or understand why things are the way they are, and some of them even consider themselves "Pro." So I will tell you what I saw that countered some comments, causing me to jump in originally: - I see a narrow lot of about 50', with a zero lot line on one side. Apparently an urban area, with some adjacent constraints. That can limit the shape of the footprint and opening up the side walls. - I see wet bathrooms, a common occurence in Europe and Asia. The little triangle represents a showerhead, so the Guest has a full bath, the Powder does not have a shower. - I see wardrobe cabinets, not built-in closets, a common occurence in Europe and Asia. - I see a kitchen that follows many utilitarian designs across the globe. Cabinets are furniture, and sometimes still travel with you. Some appliances are cabinet/appliance combos. Kitchens are not necessarily the central congregration area like in the U.S. Pantries are not huge as stocking up is not the norm. Laundries are not tasks to be celebrated, often there is a small combo condensing washer/dryer. Storage is not as critical as in the U.S., as other cultures just don't buy stuff, stuff, and more stuff to take care of their stuff. - I see a Living area that is not grouped to Dining and Kitchen. The U.S. way of living is to have large, open, communicating functions, not necessariy the norm in other parts of the world. - I see a small outside backhouse area and cafe table sized patio. Probably just for a burner to keep smells out of the house, hang laundry, and a table area that fits the lifestyle of just morning coffee. Many urban areas don't prioritize huge outdoor living/eating areas for huge parties. So, there are many things pointed out in the comments that can be improved with this plan, as I alluded to originally. But when commenting on a design, sometimes you have to shift gears to what, where, and why it is for that particular location, not just site, but country and culture. Even in the U.S., there are obvious differences comparing a typical suburban house located in Florida, California, Arizona, the Midwest, or the Northeast. It may be what an architect only does, but you have to get in the same mindset as the homeowner, or at least understand it.