Hoop house ventilation help
htwo82
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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htwo82
3 years agohtwo82
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Hoop House cooling design help.
Comments (2)jungle: That might work if you can stand 120-130F in your greenhouse. It will not do better than that. If you want real cooling buy a 36 inch slant wall exhaust fan to go with an appropriate size wet wall. I'm in Alpine TX at 4500ft elevation. My 1725 sqft greenhouse has three 36 inch exhaust fans with 1/4 hp motors and a 4x28ft wet wall. Two of those fans are adequate until it gets above 90-95F then I turn on the third. Last year when we were near 100F many days I could hold mid 90s on the hot, exhaust end. Mount the top of your wet wall and top of the exhaust fan as high as you want cooling. It will not cool higher than that. Mine are mounted at about 7ft and I wish it were 8ft. The upper air in the greenhouse is 120F+. Your exhaust fan needs to achieve one air exchange per minute to hold warming to 10-15F above outside. The wet wall provides air at 15-20F cooler than outside. My electric bill for fans is about $50-70 per month but it is the only way in our climate to keep a greenhouse usablely cool in summer. Run it on 220V if possible for economy and long motor life....See MoreHelp with hoop house for my raised veggie bed
Comments (1)Those pipes are seriously bent and under a lot of pressure. I think I would cut them in half right at the peak and glue some to fashion a little A frame, or more accurately That should relieve some of the pressure which may alleviate the bowing bottom. If not the clothes line isn't horrible but a couple Ts and another piece of PCV between hoops 2 and 3 attached across the bottom will do the trick. Of course, you'd have to plant around that piece....See Morehoop house greens dying
Comments (12)Thank you both, gentlemen, for your input. These were all fairly young plants, 2-3 months old that I grew specifically for the fall/winter/spring season in the hoop house. It's just a plain Quonset hut shape, 12' x 24' and 7' tall at the center. It has a Dutch door at the front and a 2'x 3' "window" in the back for ventilation that I can close or open as needed. It isn't very weather tight but will get pleasantly warm even on the coldest but sunny day. I got the hoops and lumber for the foundation in a trade with a friend who wanted something a little more elegant. We used plywood for the ends and bought the cover material from Northern Greenhouse Sales. I did find a mature volunteer plant, I think a Brun d'Hiver, that is doing fine. I planted Winter Density--still have a partial package in storage--but my old computer crashed taking my records with it. I will be very surprised if it were the cold alone because this is my eighth year using the hoop houses in equally cold weather without this result. Yes, the hoop house is only one layer of plastic. I have tried water in some 55 gal drums but it seemed to take up so much space without much change in the night time temps. It is common for all the veggies and herbs to freeze completely overnight but as soon as the sun warms the space, they have thawed and been beautiful. You would never have known they were even frozen at all. Since the wind and sun can't damage the plants while they are frozen, they perk right up once the temperature inside rises above 32o. I keep forgetting to take a magnifier out to get a very close up view of these plants. I noticed today that the "Tango" lettuce seems to be putting out fresh growth from the center. The other varieties are Black seeded Simpson, Forellenschluss, Red Romaine, Rouge d'Hiver and the Siberian kale. I'll post back if any of the plants recover. Thanks again. And, you can bet I hate to lose a crop. I've read both your "My Pages" and your farms sound neat....See MoreDo hoop house grown veggie starts need hardening off?
Comments (3)Yes, your veggie plants will need hardening off before planting outdoors. Your plants have started life in a location that is protected from all the elements like wind, rain and full sunlight. They need some opportunity to gradually get used to full brunt of the elements in order to thrive. Otherwise, it is likely they would get battered and burnt. Bring them out into a shady spot, protected from the wind for an hour or so the first couple of days. Gradually increase the time spent outdoor and move into more sun and wind over another few days. After I harden off my seedling tomatoes, peppers and zuchini etc and plant them in the garden in their new locations, I still assist them with some protection for another week or so. I take some gallon or larger, plastic nursery pots and cut the bottom out of them. Then place one over each veggie plant, pushing some soil up against the pot to help hold it in place. The plant now is protected from the worst of the wind but still gets plenty of sun and rain. The pot also helps hold water right over the root when you water them. When the plant has grown up above the rim of the pot, it's a good sign it is well rooted and growing and I pull the pots off and save them for next year....See Moreoakhill (zone 9A, Calif.)
3 years agoJohn D Zn6a PIT Pa
3 years agohtwo82
3 years agohtwo82
3 years agoJohn D Zn6a PIT Pa
3 years agohtwo82
3 years agoekgrows
3 years ago
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