My car worked great as the transition from the house to the garden. Use plastic totes for easy unloading when you need to haul around people instead. Also keeps my car seats clean. I spread a towel or blanket just in case because on some days I was able to put the plants directly out on sheets of cardboard for some direct sun as I increased the amount of daylight. I try to give them 2 weeks at least to harden off, but I might be too cautious. I coddle the tomatoes & cucumbers a lot because we have a lot of cloudy 50 degree days yet in spring. It's tricky to have the starts ready, but not pot bound by the time the soil has warmed up enough.

Okay. Last year, farmerdill gave me his planting schedule for fall gardens. I copied it all into my garden journal so I wouldn't forget. Here goes. Mid July: Start collards, brocolli, cauliflour, and cabbage from seed. Sow it into pots, barely covering the seed with a light dusting of potting mix. Set the pots into dappled shade and water daily. Dappled shade for me is on my deck under the deck benches. Underneath there, the plants get full sun in the morning until approximately midday and light to full shade the rest of the day. It works. This year too, remarkably. Also, in July, I pull most of my first crops: tomatoes, beans, squash, etc. which are now finished and replant them, beginning to leave room for cool season crops. This year I have successfully seeded okra, cowpeas, cucumbers, and squash, though last year mildew got the squash and cucs. Also, it's helpful to keep the squash under row covers to keep squash vine borers away from them at least until they begin to bloom. August:Late month direct sow turnips, rutabagas, mustard greens, and Asian greens. You can also sow carrots and beets, though I have yet to get a good stand of beets. Septembmer: set out your seed started brassicas from July around the middle of the month. You can still direct sow leafy greens too. Mid month, start onion seeds (short day) in flats. And in the third or fourth week, plant lettuce, garlic, spinach (tough), and red mustard. Plant the onion seedlings into the garden in late November or early December. It helps to get better germination in extreme heat if you cover the sown beds with fabric row cover and water through the fabric. I guess it holds the moisture in the beds longer. You certainly need to water daily until germination, which is really fast, 3-4 days for most things. I have only had a fall garden two years now, but it's wonderful! I keep all my greens and lettuces under floating row covers draped over fence wire hoops and both years, absolutely everything lived and produced all winter long. (Temps above 10 both winters.) I also mulch the beds well with pinestraw. This is for freeze protection, but it also has a benefit of keeping the greens perfectly clean. If you harvest the leaves with scissors and don't pull the plants out by the roots, cleaning the greens is a snap. I hope this helps you!

high tunnel will help with the heat. You need to make the hoop house so you can roll up the sides. kind of tricky and can be expensive. there are different ways to do this. The higher the sides the cooler inside. you want the sides probably 4 ft high if possible or higher. Then you have an umbrella top to keep the rain off. this keeps the veggies in great shape. less mold and problems. real good for flowers etc. With a high tunnel you do not have to use a fan to cool and they are generally set up without heat. You can use a cheap plastic for the sides since they roll up. They work well where you get a little breeze to keep the air moving inside. The quality of the veggies inside is very high. you try to water without wetting the entire plant. try to water the soil. it keeps the morning dew off. it stays nice and dry inside. really helps. Here is a link that might be useful: U of Penn high tunnels

Will the air temps be different than where they are now. Will the sun exposure be different than what they have been exposed to? Odds are the answer to both is yes. Then they need to be hardened off first. Hardening off is nothing more than providing for a gradual adjustment to any change in environment. If you can't move the plants to allow for that gradual adjustment then modify the new environment somewhat - rig up some temporary shade in the hoop house and monitor the day/night temp extremes carefully for a few days. You may have to lightly cover them on cool nights. Dave