You could plant it in a hanging basket, or you could plant regular Catnip in an area away from your Catmint. It has a stronger scent than Catmint and would attract the cats first. However, Catnip is sometimes called Catmint, so you need to determine if what you have is really Catmint. Catmint will indeed have a more minty scent, whereas Catnip will have an almost skunky odor. Find some Catnip(that maybe a friend or neighbor has) or go to a nursery that has both and do a scent comparison.HTH

I know this is an old post that I started nearly 4 years ago. But I wanted to let Y'all know how things turned out with my Buddy. I had him fixed a few months after the first post. He kept on hunting and became an indoor/outdoor cat. He never made a mess, always used the litter box from day one or went outside to relieve himself. We became the best of friends, he was like a dog! He cuddled, slept with me, followed me everywhere, and ate breakfast with me on weekends. He loved scrambled eggs!! When I would come home from work he would run to greet me if he was outside. If I didn't get right out of my truck he would be on the hood looking in and meowing! If he was inside he would be looking out of the window waiting on me, then greet me at the door. He was so adorable!! And he still loved the garden, he was by my side every day, doing his part in the garden! But sadly he died last November from leukemia. If only I had known that he should have been vaccinated for it he would probably be with me now. He was very protective of his territory and fought with a lot of cats that were invading his territory. That is probably how he got the disease. I had my other cat tested and vaccinated a week after he died.

newhomeseeker, I do not think the mom will keep the kittens in two separate places The first few days a mom cat wont leave her kids for long, but as they are growing, they take longer sleeping breaks during feedings, during which time the mom cat would walk away, looking for food I think the best thing you can do is provide, if possible, a nice waterproof shelter...Maybe since the hay is wet, make another box for her? Mom cats do not want the kittens to be touched much and to be disturbed either....They are protective and paranoid, and reasonably so... Try offering a different box... And feed her really well - she needs extra nutrition. Get some goat's milk (canned is fairly cheap) and offer it to her, and lots of wet food... Get her spayed please, once the kittens can eat on their own! See if any rescue groups in your area do TNR - and if they can let you borrow a trap. Once she is trapped, maybe there are low cost spay neuter clinics in the area? A LOT of vets will give a price break to S/N a feral cat in a trap We are very lucky in Hillsborough County (Tampa, FL) We have a feral cat program and two low cost S/N clinics...Feral cats can be fixed for 10-25 dollars, depending on whether there is a grant available (with grant money, a caregiver pays 10 dollars per cat)

Hi. Wow, I feel for you dear. I agree with Laurie about ending the pregnancy. That may be the only option for saving her. I wonder if her body has enough strength to even deliver these babies much less to make milk for them. I do have some other suggestions though. 1. Heat - give her a heating pad or heating throw. Heat is very very important to cats. It is absolutely the first thing I do when I get a sick, injured or young animal,( dog, cat or wildlife,) is get them on heat, get that body temp back up. Normal house temps are cool to cats. Winter and summer I have a heated throw and warming pads that I leave on all the time. It allows the cats (and dogs) to go to it when they need heat. I have also found that my cats ( I have 16 indoor cats-no I do not breed, they are strays. All spayed/neutered.), when they are not feeling good, they will go to it. Remember a cat's normal body temps is higher than our own. A normal nursing kitten's rectal body temp is about 96*. Lower than that, and they stop feeding. You can apply this to your cat as well. If she is very thin and weak, she may not be able to regulate her own body temp. Give her the heating pad and also a place she can get off of it if she begins to get too warm. Also, new heating pads have an automatic shut off after 2 hours. This does not work for warming animals. You can find heating pads without this feature on Ebay or even Goodwill. If they are not available, check local pet stores for warming pads or even with your Vet or local wildlife rehabilitationist. You may be able to rent or borrow one. 2. Fluids- Most cats don't drink like dogs do. It is easy for them to get dehydrated. Being dehydrated makes you feel really bad so giving fluids under the skin can be a big help. Your Vet can teach you how to do this, it is really easy. It will also give you another chance to help bring her temp up, by warming the fluids. 3. Nutra-cal - is a brown paste sold at the Vet clinic. It is usually given to animals that are weak and lethargic (sp?). It is very dense in nutrients and high in sugar for instant energy. 4. Kitten replacer milk - The A/D that Laurie spoke about is an awesome food for animals in distress. Side note: It also works well on predatory wildlife. I used it on a Redtailed Hawk with a head injury last fall, to get him to start eating again. Anyway, if she will not eat on her own, you can water down the A/D so she can lap it up. It smells really good. If she will not go for this, you can also offer her kitten replacer milk. It will not give her loose stools like cow's milk will. It is also nutrient dense. 5. Steroids - I am NOT a Vet, but I know steroids can sometimes boost the appetite. I don't know if this can be used during pregnancy, but it is worth asking the Vet about. 6. Other foods - I have had some luck with offering meat baby foods, cooked chicken and cooked chicken liver to cats that would not eat. Warming the food helps. Again, we get into the notion that she is shutting down, ie dying. The appetite goes and they have trouble regulating their body temps. Cold food just takes more energy, they may not have, to heat up. So warm the food. Have doubt about the temp? Put the food to your lips. If it burns your lips, it is too hot. Last thoughts: I hope some of this helps. I can't see your kitty, but my gut goes back to bringing her body temp up. You can use a childrens rectal thermometer to check her temp. The Vet can also teach you how to take her temp. Remember to use a lubricant like KY jelly. Also, if you can afford to do it, a blood work panel is good window to see what is going on, on the inside of your kitty. Have you done a feline lukemia/FIV test? Both diseases could play a part in her condition. Both are spread by sexual contact (if I remember correctly). From what I know of the diseases, the FIV is workable. Actually, I have two "AIDS" cats. They live with my other cats and do just fine. We have had no transmission of the disease as we do not allow breeding or fighting. But unless they have gotten something new since I worked at my Vet clinic, I don't think there is much they can do with the Lukemia. I may be in error here, it is worth exploring. One more last thought. Financial help. I an in Indiana and locally in the city we have a group called IndyFeral. They work with feral cats and the people that are trying to help them. The provide food, shelter, traps, spay/neutering and Vet care for the wild cats. You might check locally if there is anything like this around you that might be able to help you if this is causing a financial strain. I really do understand being "animal poor". Thanks! Susan Below is some additional info copied from the Merck Veterinary Manual. 1. Body Temperature Feline "normal" body temperature range is 100.5 - 102.5 Fahrenheit (38 - 39.2 Celsius). A body temperature below 100 or above 103F warrants a call to your veterinarian. Cats may become stressed in the veterinary office (or car ride to the office), creating a higher-than-normal body temperature temporarily. Gauging body temperature by the moistness of the nose or how warm the ears feel is not reliable. 2. Respiratory Rate 16 - 40 breaths per minute Respiratory rate is the number of breaths per minute. Normal respiratory rates are assessed when the cat is resting. A cat that is in pain, having heart or respiratory problems, suffering from heatstroke, or stressed will usually have increased respiratory rates. It is important to gauge the overall situation and condition of the animal to assess the respiratory rate. 3. Heart Rate 120-140 beats per minute When stressed, heart rates will increase. This will normalize as the cat calms down in healthy animals. Cats that suffer from heart conditions (cardiomyopathy) or diseases such as hyperthyroidism will have increased heart rates -- over 200 beats per minute in some cases. 4. Duration of Pregnancy On average, feline pregnancy lasts 63 days, but can vary from 57 to 69 days.