Thanks for the reply Blondboy. Lots of good info to work with. I was at first confused between "panels" and some other attachment stripping. I see now that you are refering to the bubble wrap itself. The immage of the single wirelock with wiggle wire inserted still has me concerned about your "sandwich". Do you just rely on the inner and outer plastic film pressure to hold your bubble wrap panels in place or do you attach them at the ground level in the wire lock. I assume that you would need to smash the bubbles to compress the bubblewrap enough to wire lock attach three panels of thickness. I know you can buy a double wire lock base but I purchased a large quantity of singles to get quantity discount and planned to screw 2 bases parallel to eachother. You can normally put 2 wiggle wires on top of each other in each base channel (seperately secure 2 plastic layers) so I was planning to use the bottom base for the outermost sheet of plastic. The muffin fan is a good idea. I had used an old bathroon ceiling exhaust fan for the last 11 years in my GH for an inflation fan. I can't believe it lasted that long and I don't know the electric draw it had but now I bought 2 inflation kits at an auction and I plan to use at least one of them. I may just inflate the outer layer since the other responses don't support all that much benefit from inner and outer inflation. I know that the snow doesn't accumulate on an inflated house as readily. I was always told by our GH salesman to install the plastic on a 60F day to get the perfect stretch on the cover. For oue 30 foot GH I had to loosen the wirelock and redo the single layer of plastic because it sagged so much that water laid in upper areas. Overstretching is my main concern with the inflatable system. Thanks again for all the input and my appoligies to Stanc for not starting a new thread for this side topic.

Yeah, I looked at the channel and wiggle wire cost yesterday, and a small blower and battery is cheaper; I'm glad you brought it up, tho, as my thought was clips holding the inner poly to the arches, and I can visualize the outcome as being suboptimal after picturing what and why you did what you did. Not to mention high school kids dinking around with the installation - outside layer will be enough for my blood pressure... Many issues to overcome yet -my concern is running electric to the site as backup to solar, as we want to avoid any school district paperwork. Fortunately Denver area is hot for emerging green energy companies and panels shouldn't be the show-stopper. If it all works out, this will be a nice project for others to look at for education and business purposes - many more of us will need to remember how to grow our own food when oil stays over $150/bbl., and I appreciate your site and the pictures there (regardless of currency) as an example of what we want to get to here. Thank you for spending time thinking about my project folks. Dan

froggy; Try the spray-on shading. True it might peel off over the winter but sunlight intensity is less in the wintertime. Walk in the woods in the winter and contrast that minimal shading with what you see in the summertime. I had a place I would drive to that in the wintertime you could just open your side door of your car and reach out and touch the moss. Drive by that same location in the summer and (a) you can't open your car door because of the weeds that have grown up above the moss and (b) you can't see the moss even if you try because of the dense weed undergrowth. Goerge Schenk's book is elegantly written and I too was frustrated by his seeming lack of details but after reading it again and again and reading Fletcher's book I have come to the conclusion that in some ways you have to know the moss and it's native habitat and since neither book is very deep on taxonomic identification then it can seem puzzling just what conditions apply. Also Moss Gardening is a small book of 260 pages with over 100 pictures. No other book has such pictures. Mosses of the Great Lakes is 590 pages with only taxonomic information but if you can identify your moss that book will describe the moss's habitat and it's idiosyncracies. Only black and white line drawings in that book though. Schenk's book is the travel brochure and Fletcher's book is the cookbook. Schenk particularly mentions taking some of the soil the moss is growing on. This forces you to at least consider what types of soil or surface the moss favored in the woods. Have you found Leucobryum glaucum the silver cusion moss or white moss or sometimes called the pincushion moss? You should be able to find this moss and because of it's unique features it is easy to identify. Schenk seems to indicate that this is one of his favorites and I have to agree. You can look at the picture on page 48 or go to the link. The funny thing about this moss is that I could put six different samples in front of you and you would swear that there were six different types of moss. The pictures at this site are pretty good but this is the problem with moss id; different growth stages and growing under ideal or minimal conditions may look quite different Rick Here is a link that might be useful: White cushion moss

I have HEPA air filters in multiple rooms of my house but it is still very dusty. I thought it was because the windows were open earlier in the year, because this is a dusty environment (Sierra Nevada mountains) but the windows have been closed for a month. There isn't forced air here, so it isn't the ducts. I vacuumed an entire bag's worth of dirt out of the carpets the first two months I lived here with a brand new Miele vacuum. I fixed the dryer vent which leaked. The dust still appears overnight! Help! I like the idea of a filter before the box fan although I am going to have to come up with something more attractive than duct tape to make that work in my bedroom!