Have you tried curtain tracks vs. using curtain rod?

Curtain tracks are attached to the ceiling. Often, hotel rooms use this setup. You will have to research the weight limits of this style of rod.

IMO that will not solve the issue if the drapes are really heavy they will just pull the fittings out of the ceiling. How wide is your patio door? I have used steel rods over large spaces but i need to know what size the door is , I have also used wood like giant dowels for drspes. Is there a reason to have lined drapes ? A bit more info and some pictures please . IMO tabs will not make this easier to open and close I think I would be looking at redoing the pincch pleats and do grommets instead so so work is needed in this case IMO.

I don't have an answer about the rods, but I agree tabs won't work well. What might work are rings. I've sewn clip ring tape to the back of my draperies and they open and close well. By using the tape, you don't see the actual clips - my preferred way. clip ring tape

Do a google search for "C-rings". I believe they come in clip type and traverse. Then you can use support brackets with your rod.

Mary Elizabeth, I tried C rings with another patio door curtain. The openings were not big enough to go past the support bar, nor did the openings line up in the right place. The support bar wraps the rod on the bottom. about 3/4s of the way around.

This is the type I used on the other patio door:

https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/cambria-reg-premier-complete-replacement-bracket-in-graphite-set-of-2/1042048039?skuId=42048039&enginename=google&mcid=PS_googlepla_nonbrand_windowtreatments_local&product_id=42048039&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&adpos=&creative=232742510575&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&utm_campaignid=71700000037121875&utm_adgroupid=58700004142046834&targetid=92700034063840267&gclid=CjwKCAiAxeX_BRASEiwAc1QdkZtQd7IQC5j1Dal9K3nkoq2AgBWCjM885Nn5oSWwrEcAPohABuNaFRoCxH0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds: 

There's no way for any bypass C ring to go past it. Mine even has a screw on the top, to make it even more secure.

I can look for a different support for the new drapery rod I will buy. But if the rod just lays on a flatter support bracket, there's a risk the whole rod might pull down.

clt3, no clip ring tape at that site. Not that I could find. The link was tab tape. But it's a cool idea, and I'll look elsewhere for it.

I have the C rings on a 38 foot run of draperies. They're designed to slide over support "brackets". Not sure if that's the same of what you're calling a support bar.

Traverse rods can be repaired, however, you probably need an extra heavy duty traverse rod to handle all that weight. The drapery company probably didn't order the correct one. Le Fer Forge carries extra heavy weight traverse rods.

For a regular rod, you need a center bracket every 40", so you probably need to be looking at a solid iron rod using alligator anchors, so you can leave off center brackets and make sure the rod doesn't pull out of the wall.

clt3, this looks excellent! I think using rings with it will make it much easier to pull, too. Now I just have to figure out the rod problem.

I'm amending my original post to include the rod length in question.

re : support "brackets", Support bar: I don't know what they are called: just wanted to distinguish a piece of hardware in the center, versus the hardware at the ends.

shadylady2u, I ordered the traverse rods from the place that made the drapes, at the time I ordered them: a major drapery/upholstery custom store. They knew the weight. Regardless, I'm fed up with traverse rods.

I'd blame the place they got the hardware. They sometimes don't support the weight that the manufacture claims. I think I'd try getting in touch with them to see if they can get it repaired first and see if it might not cost you anything.

Otherwise, that length of rod will definitely need a center support unless it's a solid metal.

Solid metal I could do. I've been thinking of using electrical conduit, actually: that's how fed up I am with drapery rods. I'd have to figure out how to support it firmly on the ends.

@linnea56 (zone 5B Chicago) Electrical conduit works well. Comes in 10' or 20' sections. I used it to span the 38' of windows we have in one room. My drapes are lined, but not overly heavy, so I used the 3/4" conduit. Because of the long length, I had to use connectors and supports, but there are breaks between as it is 3 groups of windows, if that makes sense.

I also used the clip rings (and "C" clip rings for the ones that needed to clear the supports).

I open and close them with a wand.

The metal conduit comes in 3 different thicknesses & multiple diameters. I remember we had to use a special primer before we spray painted it.

Mary Elizabeth, I'd like to know how wide a span you were able to use without a central support. That might help me to assess the capacity of diameters.

The wand is a good idea, too.

What fittings did you use for the ends? Thanks.

My husband "engineered" it a few years ago. I will check with him & measure the width between supports later this evening. Right now, looking at the specs for metal conduit, it comes in "EMT", "IMC", & "Rigid". We used the EMT which is the lightest weight (10' weights 2 lb.). The IMC is at least 2X as thick, so much stronger, but weights 8 lbs.

Fittings? do you mean the finials?

I'm attaching a picture (during the remodel), that shows the stacking areas between the 3 banks of windows. This determined the placement of the support brackets. The drapes are made in 4 extra wide panels, so the only ones that needed the "C" rings were the 2 on each end.

My husband said a 5 ft span was the max before a support bracket, but we did use the EMT, which is the lightest weight. If I were you, I would start with the 10' mid-weight one to get an idea. Also, I used a 2" wooden cabinet knob for the finials.

A wood closet rod worked for me.

Mart Elizabeth, by fittings I meant how you attached the conduit to the wall.

The way my husband did it was to use different EMT parts (connectors, etc.). But if you only want brackets on each end, maybe something like this:

https://www.build.com/product/summary/1235285?uid=2956054&jmtest=gg-gbav2_2956054&inv=1&ds_rl=1281078&source=gg-gba-pla_2956054!c1045383044!a55115163721!dc!ng&ds_rl=1281078&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6Or_BRC_ARIsAPzuer8akr68BYUlE-IhCb2A5j-cypiEWOsrkp6earE-f6-kJvLmXPQaQAAaAjEBEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

or any name brand brackets that will fit your rod size?

https://www.thecurtainrodshop.com/ceiling-wall-bracket-for-1-1-2-curtain-rod-each-5425

The brackets will need to correspond to your weight requirements, as will the wall anchors. I assume there would be a header to go into.