The idea of a double sink, I think, is that each side can be used for different tasks. Wash dishes in one, wash veggies in the other. Defrost meat in one, soak pots in the other. Etc. However, for me this is like saying two hands are better than one, because you can use one hand to rub your belly and the other to pat your head. It just isn't a common ''use case'', you see. In my so-called-life, a double sink always gets used as follows. Dirty dishes are piled in one side, and everything else gets done in the other. So, at the end of the day, it's like having a single sink plus a pile of dirty dishes. Now, dirty dishes are a fact of life, so maybe it's not the worst thing for them to have a snug, welcoming home. But I find that extending hospitality to detritus comes at a price, which is that the side of the sink that actually gets used is Just Too Small. Which is, too small to soak the half sheet pan that got black goober scorched all over it. Too small to wash two stockpots at once. Too small to bathe the new puppy. I would far prefer one Great Big Sink. You can always put a square plastic tub in it, should you ever really need a multi-chambered vessel. Better yet, a Great Big Sink and a Useful Little Sink somewhere else. Even better, my fantasy of a stainless steel darkroom sink, six feet long and two feet wide and only six inches deep, an endless counter that can be flooded with water and hosed down as needed. Add a deep end and a diving board, and Olympic Barbie has her swimming pool. On a perhaps more practical note, my friend has a sink I covet. It is a slab-built slate farmhouse sink extending all the way to the wall, with wall-mount faucet. Without taking up much counter width, it can swallow a half sheet pan with room to spare. Compared to a ''standard'' sink, she loses only the ledge of counter between sink and backsplash, which has to be the least useful part of a kitchen counter.

I do have the rounded front copper sink and love it. It's best if you can plan to have it pushed forward to show off the the sides. The front of the sink at the top of the curve is 29" from the wall and the sides are about 3" from the cabinet face. The sides curve around full height and stop about 3.5" back so you can support it from the underside. You will need to build a frame before installing the countertops. If you have an island or narrow kitchen make sure you have room for the curve. The deck at the back of the sink is 9" deep. I posted one picture on your other thread, but I'll add some detail photos here. Mine is 10" deep, I did consider the 8" but ended up going with the deeper and will use shorter doors from a bathroom vanity to replace the original ones which were in bad shape. This one is undermounted, but you will probably need to flush mount an 8" deep sink with the counter if you are trying to limit modifications to the existing sink cabinet. The sink and cabinet before Yuck, glad it's gone! The modified cabinet with 2x4 frame for the sink. We did have to cut a 1/2" off the face frame to fit the sink. Test fitting the sink around midnight before the new counters arrived in the morning. The flange of the sink needs to fit over the top of the 2x4 frame along with the sides slipping back enough to hide the edges so you have to plan the placement of the screws not to interfere with the sink. Detail of the granite rounded to show the top of the sink. This required a lot of thought and negotiating with the granite crew because if the granite goes straight you would have an odd shaped gap there. The installed sink and faucet --Yay! There's a lot more to do to finish the cabinet, but I'm really pleased with the result so far.

The sink is resting on a .75" piece of plywood that is screwed into the front horizontal piece. Going by what the rest of the cabs look like, they may have used dadoes on the side vertical pieces for that plywood to sit on/in Those pocket screws in the photo are most likely attaching the face frame to the cabinet. There will be more attachment points but they will be hidden and you can't access them after the cabinet is installed. From what I see, removing the sink looks do-able and pretty straightforward. Remove the drain pieces--not just the drain pipe but the basket flanges that the drain pipe connects to. Use a razor blade to cut through any caulking/ silicone, etc. sealing the sink to the countertop. And that puppy should slide right out the front. You'll need some muscle-ly help because that sink weighs north of 100#s.

"Overwhelmingly, single bowl sinks are the more popular option. 200 sinks a year, 190 are single bowls. 7 are low divides and 3 are fully divided double bowl sinks." Joseph Corlett, wow, this is really valuable information! I had no idea the division would be skewed this strongly! And I previously thought a fully divided sink was standard. Is my generation-assignment showing? Oh, and I didn't know it was possible to get an apron-front sink that didn't have that "farmhouse" vibe to it. But the example you provided looks like it could fit in a contemporary setting. And from your other posts with people complaining about the counter seam being dead in the middle of their sink front, I can see the advantage of an apron front. I follow you, because I am learning so much from your responses. Thanks! Bio.... My stainless steel sink, installed by the builder in 1979, is 21" x 6" and I think it's fine, very easy to clean, possibly because it is stainless steel though. My daughter has an extremely deep sink that makes my back ache when I babysit and wash the dishes. Only on occasion do I wish I had a deeper sink, but even then, I don't think I would want a sink deep enough to to wash my big soup pot, which I only use now to cook down fresh greens. Maybe it's time to give the soup pot to my daughter.  You should get what YOU like. I hope you enjoy your new sink. But I really don't think the dimensions of your current sink are as horrid as you currently feel. I hope you can de-stress about that a little. :-)