@WoW Washington That makes sense. I went to your website and couldn't find a list of brands you sell. I'm looking for aluminum framed sliding windows with narrow sightlines. I'm aware of the uber luxury windows by Vitrocsa, Styline, and Skyframe, and their frames are about 1" thick. Gorgeous. But of course, the prices are as much as my entire home cost. I'm wondering if there's a narrow frame out there, maybe 2" thick, from a more economical standpoint. Milgard and Andersen are thicker than that. What brands do you sell on your site that have the narrowest frames, could you share? It's funny because I live in a old, modest beach house in Florida that JUST SO HAPPENS to have come with super narrow 1.5" frames. Even on my 6' x 5' sliding window. The frame is just 1.5" thick. Love it! But the company went out of buisness.

I'd by lying if I said this wasn't a challenge. Windows come tinted in a range of colors - most people assume all windows are just clear because some tints are so slight. A blue tint is -typically- one of the colors that allows a broader bundle of visible light wavelengths into the space. Which is a good thing but still not easy be cause it adds a heavy does of blue tint to the character of natural light source. The easiest solution might be to repaint. Keep in mind that in order for wall color to be a "color" the wavelength has to be dominant in the quality of inherent, natural light. Take a tan that shows in a room as tan but with strong green undertone. The undertone of green wouldn't be there unless the quality of light had a hefty does of green for the tan to reflect back to your eyeballs. The only reason you see a green undertone is because the light is green. The same tan in another house - or even room within the same house - might show pink or fleshy. That's because the quality of light in that space is heavier with red wavelengths. Same paint color. No mythical undertone code to analyze. It's simply the effects of different qualities of light. The tan paint color intrinsically has pink and green that reflect accordingly to the quality of inherent light source --- that also has green or red/pink characteristics. In other words, an apple is red because that's the wavelength of color it reflects - all the other colors are absorbed. Paint color undertones and how they actually work with light qualities is one of the most misunderstood aspects of architectural color. That's because it's complicated. And no one likes complicated color. Mother nature didn't get that memo so unfortunately the reality of color is that it is often complicated. i.e. blue tinted windows. One could try to solve the 'what paint color will work in blue tinged light' by mentally trading reflected and absorbed wavelengths. Personally, that's like trying to do long division without pencil and paper. It's easier to work with physical paint chips then sample in the space. In the process of selecting new paint colors remember that any blue color characteristics will be magnified in the blue light - like the reason an apple is red thing. It's going to be a process of paint chip elimination. The goal of viewing batches of paint chips is to discover what OTHER colors of wavelengths are there to work with. So you can partner those wavelengths with paint colors that share the same color characteristic. Hopefully diluting the influence of blue. The issue of rooms with light that leans blue is discussed kinda often on the www. For example, to counter cool, blue northern exposure natural light choose warm paint colors like terra cotta. Fundamentally, that recommendation is about countering the blue with its subtractive color complement, orange. If you get what I wrote above, you understand why that's not the right answer. And if you REALLY get the color and light relationship, that kind of crap makes you want to bang your head on your keyboard.... several times. Like I said, this whole ball of wax is definitely complicated and a bit of a challenge. The other option is, if possible, just ignore it.

The CCC stands for China Compulsory Certification and the number under the CCC tells who made the glass and the specific certifications the glass meets. Curious if you have a safety logo on any of the glass? Since it's laminated you don't technically need one, but an inspector would normally require a certificate stating that you have certified safety glass in the door. Typically in residential applications the glass labels (logo's, bug, etc) are on the inside glass surface of the window, readable from the interior of the home. These may very well be installed backwards if all of your labels face outward. On the pictures that I sent, labeled side 1 would be intended to face outward, exterior of a home. Conversely, labeled side 2 in the picture (which in glass-speak would be called laminate surface 4) would face inside the structure. Most LowE coatings are designed to be applied to glass surface 2. Glass surface 2 is inside the laminate (or IGU) opposite side 1. Glass surface 1 and 4 are "touchable" while glass surfaces 2 and 3 are inside the laminate (or IGU) and when using any 2, 3, or 4 silver layer coating, the coating should be on surface 2. And this the same for both laminated and insulating glass (and that changes when you have a triple pane IGU or a laminated IGU, or especially a laminated-triple-pane IGU...but not going there). And yes, coating application surface does make a difference both in performance and aesthetics, and this is a consideration in both laminated and IGU applications Make sense?

Do you have a style that is already present in the home? Anything will work, but something with a color in it will likely minimize the appearance of the greenish hue. I will also add that while some customer do note the appearance of the float glass green, most admit that they don't notice it after about 2-3 weeks.