I did tiling for the first time when I tiled my backsplash and I can give you some advice from one beginner to another (not meant to replace the advice of a pro, but just might be some things that a pro takes for granted since they are good at what they do). IMO the way to get a professional looking job is to: 1) take your time. It's not going to go quick, that comes with practice. It took me a week to do my backsplash, a pro would have done it in a day, but I got a professional look. 2) use spacers. If there are no lugs on your tile to give the proper spacing, use spacers. I will never forget watching some DIY show, maybe weekend warriors, where the guy was like "I don't need to use spacers, I have a good eye." Oh what a crappy install THAT turned out to be. Again this is a practice thing, someone who does this all the time might be able to do it without spacers but you don't have that much practice so use them. 3) never work with someone who doesn't have the same standards you do. Tiling is not necessarily a 2 person job. 4) Try out one of those cheapie tiling kits at home depot - the one that comes with a cheap, half circle shaped piece of tin for spreading thinset. I have kind of small hands (definitely smaller than the average man) and found that this tool was MUCH easier for me to control than the larger trowel. Sure, you can't spread as much at one time but see #1. Even with the trowel, the thing is notched to make sure you get the right amount of thinset on the walls. Use the right size notches (maybe bill can help you with that and also some tips for applying). 4) Buy more extra than you'd need for a pro and don't be afraid to use it... to re-cut anything that needs to be re-cut etcetc.

Couldn't you put some type of thick baseboard, wainscotting, built in benches or bookcases or a mixture of these to hide the unevenness of the wall and cover the tiles. I would square the room as best I could and get the vinyl tiles as close to the wall as possible and then decide on something to afix to the wall to hide the uneven edges. I think if the tiles are away from the wall they may tend to peel up and I think it would be more pleasing to the eye for them to go all the way to the wall. Do you have a picture you can show us? I used vinyl stone look tiles in my garden shop and some people have thought it was real stone. I put them as close to the wall as possible and then covered with baseboards (of course it was new construction and the walls are fairly straight). It was recommended to start in the middle of the room - but I laid mine out in a dry run and found that if I started at the entrance door with a full tile then only two walls had part of a tile and they are hidden with bookshelves, a counter and displays. Make sure the floor is perfectly clean before laying the self stick tiles. I used a sealer on my concrete floor beforehand too.

Hi brennajones1! Thanks for bringing this thread back! I'm actually prepping/priming my eat-in kitchen TODAY! Paint will go on Tuesday, after the primer cures. A second coat, if necessary, will go on Thursday, as well as any touch-ups. Saturday morning we'll put up the new curtains, and pictures on our accent wall. At 1:00 PM Saturday, my daughter Joy and I are hosting about a dozen women for a garden party! FUN!! We've decided to paint one room a month until the entire interior is done, even though at least some, if not all, the interior walls will be replaced some day. Originally, we had decided not to put any $$ into updates before remodeling. But our complete, subfloor to ceiling do-over is literally a ten year plan. So we've decided to put a few hundred dollars into paint in order for freshen things up. By the way, Iast January I bought an old, 1979 MH in dreadful condition due to neglect and the previous owners being hoarders. I have the dark, fake wood paneling throughout. In three rooms, they decided to paint, then quit part way through. No priming, no tape, no tarps, so lots of paint on carpets, etc. All hideous, super dark colors. And wherever their brushes were when they got tired of it is where they quit. Not in a straight line or anything, lol! Unfortunately, I don't have an answer to your question. You can do a search here because there are dozens of threads devoted to painting MH walls! And maybe try it in a small area where it wouldn't be noticeable. Good luck! I'd love it if you'd post pics of the project! :-) Sincerely, Debbie

Thanks for your reply poolguy - tanning shelf is an 18 " deep (10 ft X 10 ft) entrance to the pool (one step down), then there are 3 more steps after the 10 ft going into the pool. The rest of the pool is then 40 ft long (so the tanning shelf does not lessen the 40 ft length for swimming). Made of steel and covered with vinyl liner. Essentially an area for little kids to play or adults to hang out (I have several young children). Sorry I don't have a picture. The waterfall plumbing was explained as an additional pipe (rigid PVC is used everywhere) that is capped off at the location of future WF. We want a nice one, but it is not in the budget this year. On the cleaner - thanks for the info - DH actually said he did not know how that could really clean the pool - the other option they offered was Blue Diamond @ $1400 - is that comparable to the Polaris or Aquabots? We have nixed the spa and deep end swimout. We are confused too by the concrete charges - basically 3 ft wide regular concrete is included (no cantilever). Tan tint on 3 ft around pool is additional $583. If we want the cantilevered edge it is another $1500. If we want stamped concrete 1 ft perimeter it is another $1860. So in summary, if we want tan concrete 3 ft surround with stamped concrete 1 ft perimeter and cantilevered edge the Upcharge for that is: $3043. For comparison a bullnose TRAVERTINE edge was quoted to us (from a mason- not pool company) at approx $3600. The charge to add 407 sq ft of additional tinted concrete adjacent to pool area is $2950. Really appreciate your input!