Yes. Yes, you can.

And I probably would start now. Forsythia blossom means (well, really, it's air temps that are coming up, but) temps are rising. Stuff's moving along.

Go now. ASAP. And start watering it to keep it damp. Fortunately, this early, that's easy.

I don't have any experience with the jute, but it looks fine to me, if you want to use it. Burlap's fine. I'd avoid straw unless you're quite certain it's clean of weed seeds. Hint: even "cleaned" straw is never completely cleaned of weed seeds. :-)

Now, a warning. Several, actually!

Spring seedings fail a lot, so let's try to get this one to be as good as we can. Keep it damp. Not soaking wet, but damp. As noted, that's relatively easy in April and May when it's cooler, rains a fair amount, and the sun isn't terribly strong yet (well, for April, anyway). Wait for all the grass seed to sprout, which is going to take a full thirty days at least, and that's going to depend on the weather. If there's bluegrass in your mix, it could even be a little longer. How will you know? ... You won't. But you'll note that there's no more sprouting and that'll be good enough. Figure Day 30 from the first sprouts you see, which won't be fast (it's still cold).

After that, back off from damp. S-L-O-W-L-Y. This is a baby lawn. You do not expect a toddler to cook dinner for herself.

Water every other day if the weather is pleasant. Keep an eye on it if it's hot and if it shows signs of wilting or burning, water it. The target is 1" of water a week, grand total (this will always be true, although you might go a bit higher in hot weather, and much lower in cold weather...and rainfall counts).

Keep that up for a while, say two or three weeks, then back off to twice a week watering. Still, target half an inch watering at a time. This is NOT normal lawn watering, this is doing it almost exactly the wrong way and inviting problems. Keep an eye out for fungal issues, and respond immediately if you see brown patches, white patches, or odd fuzzy growths on the lawn. Try to water early in the morning at least for one of those waterings so the lawn goes into the overnight dry--so, say, target one watering for Saturday morning.

Maintain that through summer. All of summer. Your spring-planted lawn is not going to be very stable its first summer and we don't want to stress it.

Then, August 15, seed in any holes and start over again, watering those twice or three times daily (the rest of the lawn, at this point, is still on twice a week).

Repeat. August 15. No, I am not kidding.

Once the weather starts to break, you can water the lawn less. Once a week as summer fades out, which will pretty much be as often as it rains, usually. Then winter and the following spring, it's on its own--just as the stuff you put in during the fall is.

Fall seeded grasses are far more durable. Spring seeded lawns are like rabbits having litters in October. Yes, they can survive. But usually it's because somebody (me) bought rabbit chow and left it outside in pans. Twice a day. For months.

With Milo, feed at bag rate on Memorial Day, Labor Day, and October 1. Finish off with a synthetic when growth stops--full rate if it's November 1 or later. Half rate if October 15 or later. Skip it if it's before October 15.

With synthetics and a new lawn, feed at half rate on Memorial Day. Then full rate on Labor Day, October 1, and then follow with the growth stop rules above.

You can mix it up, so if you can get Milo on Memorial Day but synthetic otherwise, just pick the rule for that type of fertilizer for that date. Or vice-versa. It's all good. And you can toss things on the lawn like coffee grounds, cracked corn, and so on at any time you like, although I might avoid July for large-scale applications of anything.

To clear up any confusion this is port2015; I am logged onto my wife's PC username ber79.

Thank you once again morpheuspa.

I'll post pictures as i go along.

Fingers crossed.

There are almost always alternatives to Milorganite. If you look at any (other) bag of organic fertilizer you'll see the ingredients from the following list: soybean meal, corn meal, alfalfa meal, ground wheat, cottonseed meal, ground flax seed, poultry litter, corn gluten meal, feather meal, and the list goes on. You can buy many of these ingredients at your local feed store. Call first for pricing and availability. I use alfalfa pellets and ordinary corn meal because the rest are not available at any price in my part of Texas. Morpheuspa uses soybean meal along with Milo.

And to clear up any confusion, I no longer live in San Antonio, but I'm not changing the screen name I've had for 18 years. I live about 40 miles NW from SA in Bandera, TX (Cowboy Capital of the World).

Morpheuspa,

With regards to the watering in the pre-emergent and early sprouting period of the seed (the first 30 days ) is there an approximate amount of water to be applied weekly either through rainfall or irrigation. ie. 1/2" per week; 1" per week?

You mention to keep it damp;

Is it to a certain soil depth?

Thanks for your patience in answering all of my questions.

Thanks again

Most pre-emergents say they should be watered in by around a quarter inch (or more) of rainfall. So one good rain takes care of that.

Through the sprout period, just keep the soil damp at the seed layer, so the top quarter inch as much as possible (that twice to thrice per day will do it).

Target for most lawns is about an inch per week. Target during sprout is "never let the seed go completely dry." Seed absorbs water and then evaporate it away. It simply can't evaporate everything off before seeing more or losses start to mount up.

Watering several times a day, lightly, takes care of that.

Thanks Morpheuspa for the explanation

April 16 2020 // The culverts are raked out and filled in, the seed spread and gently raked over for soil contact and starter fertilizer w/weed preventer applied; followed by the installation of the jute netting.

Although we are expecting 2" to 4" of snow tonight into Saturday morning (4-19-20); followed by a warm up on Sunday (60F).

Our fingers are crossed for milder temperatures and light and gentle rain showers.

Snow would be perfect to settle the seed and get everything going!

I am starting to see signs of seed germination.

Please clarify watering needs.

Currently I am watering for 7 minutes per zone at 6am, 11am and 4pm daily unless it is raining.

My area is expecting an inch plus of rain on Friday.

Is that enough rain for the week for seed germination?

Or should I start watering again when the soil starts to dry?

Thanks

Water again when the seed dries. An inch is nice, but only the surface counts here--so it can dry in just a few hours of sunlight.

Thank You morpheuspa once again.

Your help is deeply appreciated.

After two weeks I am seeing more signs of seed germination; and with a warmer week ahead with temperatures during the day in the upper 50s to lower 60s, with night time temperatures in the upper 40s I am hoping for some really good results.

As I plan ahead to the Memorial Day fertilization.

I was wondering if I can I re-apply the Scott's Starter fertilizer with weed preventer?

The manufacturing label states it will prevent weeds for up to 6 weeks.

I was hoping to suppress the weeds as long as possible with a second application while the grass seed continues to germinate and grow.

The Memorial Day fertilization is just about 6 weeks after the first application of the starter fertilizer with weed control.

The Scott's Starter fertilizer with weed preventer contains the following instructions / ingredients:

Where to Use:

Apply to newly seeded, overseeded or newly planted Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, centipedegrass as well as fine and spreading creeping red fescue Apply this product before watering newly planted grass for the first time. Apply when temperatures are consistently between 60°F and 90°F

When to Apply:

Apply this product before watering newly planted grass for the first time. Apply when temperatures are consistently between 60°F and 90°F

Note: I applied the product for the first time when planting of the grass seed and the temperature had not reached the 60F that is recommended.

Fertilizer Analysis:

21-22-4

Active Ingredient:

Mesotrione

This product applies 0.15 pounds of Mesotrione per acre per application. The maximum application rate of Mesotrione per treatment per year is 0.45lbs. This package applies 4.3 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft.

Thanks

Theoretically, yes, although I'd be inclined to see if you can find something without the nitrogen in it. A second shot right now is a bit of overkill.

I am getting ready for a second application of fertilizer with weed preventer on Memorial Day which will be 6 weeks after seeding and the first application of the The Scott's Starter fertilizer with weed preventer

Recommendations Please

My choices are:

The Scott's Starter fertilizer with weed preventer contains the following instructions / ingredients:

Where to Use:

Apply to newly seeded, overseeded or newly planted Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, centipedegrass as well as fine and spreading creeping red fescue Apply this product before watering newly planted grass for the first time. Apply when temperatures are consistently between 60°F and 90°F

When to Apply:

Apply this product before watering newly planted grass for the first time. Apply when temperatures are consistently between 60°F and 90°F

Note: I applied the product for the first time when planting of the grass seed and the temperature had not reached the 60F that is recommended.

Fertilizer Analysis:

21-22-4

Active Ingredient: Mesotrione

This product applies 0.15 pounds of Mesotrione per acre per application. The maximum application rate of Mesotrione per treatment per year is 0.45lbs. This package applies 4.3 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft.

or

Jonathan Green's

Crabgrass Preventer plus New Seeding Lawn Fertilizer

PRE-emergent control that can be spread at the same time you apply grass seed & new seeding lawn food.

Contains Tupersan* for weed control (Active Ingredient Siduron)

N-P-K 10-15-10

GUARANTEED ANALYSIS

Total Nitrogen (N) ................................................ 10.00%

5.87% Ammoniacal Nitrogen

4.13% Urea Nitrogen*

Available Phosphate (P2O5) ................................ 15.00%

Soluble Potash (K2O) ........................................ 10.00%

Plant Nutrients Derived From: Diammonium Phosphate, Urea, Potassium Chloride and Polymer Coated Sulfur Coated Urea. *3.00% Slowly available Urea Nitrogen from Polymer Coated Sulfur Coated Urea

Which chemical will give the longest lasting weed control and which chemical does a better job in suppressing the weeds?

Suppressing of the weeds being the priority.

Can I over-seed again in the bare spots that did not germinate and do an over-seed again in the fall ?

Thanks

Both are about the same as both will be around 30 day doses to avoid too much interference with new grass seed. So use whichever is cheaper, really.

And don't apply the stuff until Memorial Day. You're going to want to extend your crabgrass coverage further into summer rather than jumping the gun. CG sprouts more when it gets hotter, not the other way around.

Given the time of year, skip seeding spots. It's doomed to failure and practically exactly the wrong instant in time. Hold out and let existing grasses grow in and let whatever's going to survive the summer do so (you're going to have to water it...)

Seed thin or unsprouted spots in fall.

Thanks morpheuspa,

Is one better than the other as far as N-P-K; with regards to and new grass seed germination and growth?

Scott's is 21-22-4

Jonathan Greens' is 10-15-10

I'm going to assume application rates approximately even out the nitrogen levels, so no. May apps also aren't that critical and tend toward the low side anyway; spring lawns aren't particularly peckish.

This year, what with the whole Coronavirus thing and my area being in Code Red probably well into June, I'm stuck with what I can get delivered contactless to my doorstep (I could go traveling as the places I use are open, but consider it an unreasonable and unnecessary risk, so I skipped it this year). I'm going with 0.8 pounds organic N per thousand square feet this year in May. That's sufficient.

I'll either do the same in fall and fill out with synthetics for 2020 or, if events change, make the trip if things are better at the time. No huge damage--fall's the time when you want the full pound of nitrogen per thousand, every month.