Where would you put a W/D in this layout?
Nelly Bluth
4 years ago
My basement is scary (dark, cobwebs, damp) and has a beam just of the base of the stairs that I hit my head on almost every time I go down there to do laundry. I would like to move the washer and dryer upstairs, but I don’t know where to put them. My place has very few closets and the bathrooms are tiny. I’m trying to determine if there is any place I could put them that wouldn’t require a major remodel.
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Sherry8aNorthAL
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
Where would you put the kitchen in this layout-open to FR or not?
Comments (9)I am going to make some kinds of generic comments based on one of my favorite remodeling columns as well as a well-known architect. The remodel-column guru always hit home to me with her proposed solutions because they were based not on adding so much square footage, but on identifying why certain rooms in the house weren't used much, and why folks gravitated to one area, and then flipping or re-orienting the spaces and traffic flow to use all of the home to best advantage. Whereas so many typical remodel solutions seemed to involve converting a garage or adding yet another room when the original home had significant sq footage already. Of course the innovative re-purposing solutions still might have involved some additions, bump outs, wall removal and so forth, but quite often involved taking into account the best views or adding great windows, French doors when needed to access the deck or yard, flipping the kitchen so it was oriented to great views rather than a less-used dining space, and so forth. So an example of a common "mistake" is that someone might add a large sunny family room or sunroom to the back of a home that already has kitchen, DR, FR, LR, etc ( at high expense)in order to have light and air, but not connect it well to existing spaces, and then the whole family crowds into the sunroom and drags meals out there ("we spend all our time here"), but still does not like being in the existing kitchen and DR and FR, which still must be heated, cooled, and cleaned, instead of getting the right design help to remodel the existing spaces to work together and have the light and views and connections needed to "feel good". That would just be an example, and is not to say that one can't add a terrific sunroom that was the best thing they ever did! You're already thinking along some of those lines. Continue with evaluating the light and views and what your family expects to do together and apart; as noted, screened porch provides access to fresh air, but the effect on light entry is to be looking out into shade and dimness ( unless you add skylights to the porch, which is also an option to consider in remodeling,for just that reason). You would know more about how you might use the kitchen-FR connection (this was a useful combination for my family in order to allow kids to be on computer, do homework and feel connected to the kitchen). As another form of inspiration, you might also like to read The Not So Big House. It also speaks to the features of home design that contribute to the "feel" of the spaces so that we create spaces that are really used and enjoyed every day as opposed to lots of "rooms" that are not. I think many architects and designers are more comfortable with "additions" rather than the idea of re-arranging existing space within the home....See MoreW/D in kitchen, where to put stuff?
Comments (19)I have the same situation as you except in my master bath instead of my kitchen. I have a small shallow linen closet directly across from the w/d closet (like you have a small pantry). I put small versions of everything in there: all free&clear (super concentrated, 42oz), tide w/fabreeze (50oz), dryer sheets, solid stain stick, liquid stain stick, bleach, bleach pen, and a package of front-load washer cleaning pucks. I'll have 2 All containers in there if one is running out (you know, upside down). That takes up a little less than 1/2 of a shelf (12"w x 11"d x12"h). That's a lot of laundry supplies for such a small space. They're at 'hand height'. They're easy to get and see, but not what smacks you in the face when you open the closet (which I want to be towels). I refill the Tide container from a large one I keep in the garage. I usually just go ahead and just buy the small All containers. They only come in tiny and super-huge. Sometimes I have the gumption to buy a huge one, but refilling from those huge containers is messy. I refill my bleach too. Since you say that you're going to have a satellite laundry in the basement, I suggest that you go buy tiny versions of what you already use (I don't mean travel-size) and see how they work out in your pantry. This won't work out so well if your family stirs the pantry (at least that's what it looks like my sister's family does to her pantry!)...See MoreWhere to put AC handler and W/D?
Comments (12)They can go in a closet. They just need clearance for ductwork and maintenance. In my area, the closet models are typically done without return ducts. That creates a problem in an internal closet. You might have different standards and certainly your reno has separate returns. In my rental townhouse, the handler is in a hall closet with venting above the door but it also has a return downstairs (one unit zoned for 2 floors). In a beach house we have a louvered door and it is in a hall closet - no additional returns. So the closet is fine but you need to get air in there - either through ducts which can take up room or vents which might not do well in a isolated closet. If both your returns and supply are in the ceiling, then you need room for the turn around in the closet. Air handlers take in typically from the bottom and exhaust to the top. So if your returns are in the ceiling, it is either upside down (no big deal) or the ducts need room to make 180 degree turn. In my area, they typically sit on their side in a large area - attic/basement/crawl. When you go in a closet, this isn't a good option. 900 ft onto 4000 in a typical scenario could be done without an additional unit. Average units are about 30% oversized and 900 new feet does not equal a corresponding percentage increase in load. I realize that ship has sailed for you but for other readers. I am fairly convinced that HVAC contractors have no business doing load calculations - there is an economic conflict and their motivation is to oversize. I put them on par with congress for credibility....See MoreLarge wall over W/D - what would you put there?
Comments (22)The big reason why I would get that pipe out of the way is because I just know that after the novelty of having a 'new' laundry room wore off--like within a year--I would be kicking my own butt for the next five, ten, fifteen or however many years I lived with for not having dealt with it at the get-go. I love your laundry space & wish I had something like it to work with! (Love that door w/ lites.) Mine is in an expanded closet in the basement with HVAC ductwork and the breaker box in the way of doing much of anything with it. Those fold-out drying racks are awesome but I've nowhere to put one. The most important thing with butcher block is to coat both sides & all edges equally & with the same product. Top coat with poly? Not if you have already applied a non-drying oil (mineral oil, for example). The top coat won't adhere. IF you used a drying type oil (tung oil, boiled linseed oil, etc.), with proper prep, you can top coat after the oil has fully cured. If you used mineral oil, be mindful that oil can leach out of the wood onto clothing if left laying on the surface. You should be OK w/ incidental contact if not freshly oiled. Just don't leave anything you care about laying on it. Again, IF you used mineral oil, you can use a penetrating drying type oil finish that should sufficiently seal the wood and prevent any leaching. Equal parts tung oil, oil-based varnish and mineral spirits. Multiple coats flooded on, let set a bit, wipe off. Let dry and repeat. You'll need at least three coats, probably. Depends on the wood & how porous it is. Keep applying until it has the sheen that you want. (I buy real tung oil & mix my own because many of the 'tung oil finishes' on the market don't actually have any tung oil in them.) Avoid linseed oil like the plague in a moist environment like a laundry room because linseed oil can support mold & mildew growth. Another thing--I use gloss varnish because it is more durable than the reduced sheen ones. The addition of 'flatteners' in semi-gloss, matte, etc. makes for a softer finish. If the finish is too shiny for your taste, you can use steel wool or the 3M 'scotch brite type' sanding pads to reduce the shine. Last thing--if you use the home made oil finish and it starts to dry & get too sticky to wipe off, coat it with fresh finish & wipe. The solvents will soften it up and make it easier to wipe down. ***Last, last thing--very, very important. Any rags with finish on them should be hung to dry or burned immediately because they can spontaneously combust. I hang them outside on the edge of my firepit and either burn them or put them in the garbage after the rags are thoroughly dry & stiff....See MoreSherry8aNorthAL
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
Sammie J
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
bpath
4 years ago
katinparadise
4 years agoNelly Bluth
4 years agokatinparadise
4 years ago
Larisa Batchelor
4 years ago- PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
4 years ago katinparadise
4 years agoHelen
4 years agobpath
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
Dslane78
4 years agoYou’re 17x15 bedroom. The door moved to over by the bathroom and the two closets plus could easily become a deep laundry closet along the long hall. You could place another closet for the bedroom behind. You’re dryer venting will be the only issue.
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