New construction: architect vs design/build
jkw218
4 years ago
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
Design/build vs. separate architect/designer and builder?
Comments (28)There were two separate contracts with the design build team. I only signed one for the design. I think I had them modify the design contract not to include final construction plans. We did not move forward to the construction plans as I opted not to go forward with them. All I got from them was a few 8x11 sheets of papers with sketches for the design plan, most of which were my idea as to changes I wanted to implement in the house. The quote for the build phase was very expensive. The architect has a design phase and a construction drawing phase. I am paying as we go along. I have changed course with the project from what I initially wanted to do with the design build team. I started off wanting to do a master bathroom remodel, but have decided to do a master bedroom/bathroom addition. The architect has produced large architectural drawings for every change in the design phase. We are now in the construction phase of the drawings. I took the design plans to a contractor who gave me a ball park estimate. Since it was in my budget (and I know the ctr. cannot give me a true estimate without seeing the final plans), I had the architect move forward with the contsruction plans. That is where the project is now. So far, I am much happier with the architect/ contractor route....See MoreDesign/Build vs Architect and Contractor for Finishing an Attic
Comments (2)There are advantages to both project delivery methods and if done well they should have similar results for a similar price but there are a lot of variables. To me the decision depends on how much control you want to have in all phases of the project but especially during construction, and how much you are concerned with custom detailing. Even if the design-builder is fair and competent, he will always have a conflict of interest since he can't represent both sides of the contract at the same time. Of course, it would not be as critical for an attic renovation as for an entire house....See MoreLooking for an Architect / Designer recommendations for a new build.
Comments (71)Honestly I think what you'll be doing is like jannicone and sophie said, over improving for your neighborhood. I don't have a good feeling about what you're getting into with what you want to upgrade. As Sophie mentioned your neighborhood is $400k houses and that's about where you want to stay. Even if you put in an expensive kitchen, it won't appraise for what you invest in it. The appraisals will come in at what the builder basic is. This is not by any means a custom house. It's a development or tract house. The builder is giving you a number of choices and as jannicone said, if you upgrade you'll pay through the nose. As she said, if you decide to go with your appliances, you'll get maybe a credit of $500-$1000 if that. Same if you upgrade anything else. Like I said earlier, it's how tract builders make their money. If you can find a house you like that works pretty much as is, I say go ahead and buy it, but don't go upgrading. It's not worth it. Or if you do upgrade, do it for things that are important such as heating and cooling. Let's take your list and explain: Blueprint Review with Builder Um you said you haven't met the builder Framing Inspection with Builder ditto Full limited Warranty Coverage What does that mean? 24-hour Plumbing & HVAC Service What kind of plumbing and HVAC service? Distinctive Kitchen Features Schrock Oak/Maple front These cabinets are probably one step above Ikea cabinets, although personally I'd probably prefer Ikea. Plus I'd prefer to design a kitchen the way I need it. My guess is if you want to change anything you'll pay a fortune for it. Cabinets w/Dove Tail, Self-Close Do they have soft close drawers or just soft close? Are they full extension drawers? Are they Blum hardware? Granite countertop with 4” Backsplash I'm guessing you are getting a bunch of level 1 granite choices most of which will be ugly. Level 1 granite nowadays is almost considered builder basic. Plus nothing about backsplashes. The 4" backsplash is only done in tract homes nowadays. Double-bowl 8” Stainless Steel Undermount Sink What brand? What gauge steel? What double bowl configuration? Delta 470 single lever faucet Not to be rude but this faucet looks like what my Mother had in her kitchen back in the 70's. Recessed Light over kitchen sink What about recessed lights in the rest of the kitchen? Over the stove, countertops, the island? What about under counter lighting? Let me guess. All are upgrades. Frigidaire FGEF3041KF Smoothtop Electric Range- S/S, Did you know this range is discontinued? And that's what he's putting in all the houses? Granted you want to upgrade to a Wolf, but this range that he has sold for under $1000. You are upgrading to something that is over 5x the price of this range, including adding gas. It's overkill for the neighborhood. A better choice to upgrade would be to go with a GE or a Bosch if you must upgrade. I am building in an area where the houses are in the high 6, low 7 figure range, and I'm not putting in a Wolf! (I'm using Bosch) Frigidaire FGMV174KF Microhood (Non-vented)- S/SFrigidaire FGBD2432KF Dishwasher-SS Both of these are also discontinued. Frigidaire FFHS2622MS Side-by- Side Refrigerator- S/S This is basically one step above an entry level Fridge. Elegant Bath Features Schrock Oak/Maple Front Cabinets w/Dove Tail, Self-Close See comments from kitchen. Ceramic Tile Bathroom Floors Porcelain is better in a bathroom Clarion Acrylic Shower/tub In other words, your tub will have a one piece acrylic surround and not be tiled. One-piece Marbleized Vanity Top We used to call them cultured marble in the 70's. Kohler ‘Wellworth’ Commode Delta 2538 Double-lever Faucets Vanity Mirror Delta Chrome Bathroom Accessories Exhaust Fans – Per Code Kohler Pedestal Sink in Half Bath Final Touch Interior Finishes Bruce Dundee 2 ¼” Hardwood Flooring in Foyer, Dining Room, Kitchen and Kitchen Nook Area Bruce Flooring is HD quality. Superior Gas Fireplace Is this a vented or unvented fireplace. Hopefully it's not unvented. (do some research) Colonial Painted Woodwork What does that mean? What size are the moldings? Crown moldings? Baseboards? What? Smooth Finish Walls and Ceilings What level smooth? Sherwin Williams ‘Dover White’ Paint throughout Living Space Sherwin Williams like all paint manufacturers makes quality paint and builder's special which is garbage. Which is he using? 6-panel Masonite Interior Doors Are they solid core doors or I'm guessing they're hollow core doors Closet Maid Shelving System Also available in HD Solid Exterior Features Viewpoint Slider – Per Plan .Viewpoint Low ‘E’ Vinyl Windows Viewpoint are considered a lower quality window and slider. Near the bottom. Windows and doors really are so important Energy Efficiency & Comfort Central Air by Lennox Lennox Gas Furnace-up to 95% Which ones? All furnace and AC companies have different grades, from bottom to top. R-21 Fiberglass Side Wall Insulation R-38 Fiberglass Ceiling Insulation I agree with Sophie that this is probably minimum insulation and again you need to really check things out. Also what will be the insulation for the basement, the attic, etc. Pressure Balancing Shower Valves Personally I would want only a thermostatic shower valve, especially in your neck of the woods. Do research. The rest is out of my wheelhouse so I'll leave it to others. I can tell you that my specification sheet before I got my final bid was even a lot more specific than what you got....See MoreHVAC for architect-designed new construction in MA
Comments (11)We faced similar issues with our build (http://bamasotan.us/2018/11/decisions-decisions-and-ducting/) that sounds like a similar 4 level with lots of steel and LVL's to yours. We did have a meeting with our Builder, HVAC, Architect, and structural engineer to work out these issues. Many issues were worked out (replaced an LVL with steel to allow ducts to get through, changed truss spacing, etc.) but some things didn't get resolved in that meeting that they still needed to work on and everyone said that they would. We talked about a number of alternatives but the trade-offs were all such that sticking with standard forced air was the better decision. We do have in-floor heat (minimal cool if needed) throughout the lower level in addition to forced air. We were quite unpleasantly surprised to find ducts run up a corner of our dining room and through my master closet. We had a couple of meetings to look at alternatives but in the end the recommendation was to keep them and work around them. I'm still quite concerned and unhappy about what impact this will have on the dining room and the loss of space in my closet. The only other 'issue' is that one of the HVAC systems is located above my closet and so nearly above our master bedroom. We were assured by the HVAC folks that they'd be able to isolate everything enough that it'll not bother us with noise or vibration when sleeping. I'm quite nervous about it but for now am relying on their word. * BTW, I didn't look over the structural drawings in much detail but was quite surprised when framing began that there were trusses over non-structural walls. Typically this is avoided (and usually not difficult to avoid) since it creates problems for getting HVAC, plumbing and sometimes electrical in to those walls....See MorePatricia Colwell Consulting
4 years agoDesign Girl
4 years agoDavid Cary
4 years agoCharles Ross Homes
4 years agoNorwood Architects
4 years agoJeffrey R. Grenz, General Contractor
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
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