The appraisal was low so we're into cash more than the usual 20%. This part is well over that point. The re-appraisal for the conversion may go better, but we wanted to keep the loan kinda low anyway. It helps to remind myself it's cash since there's not any of the normal advantage of the attic being something you could finance in a first mortgage, as compared to other types of improvements (pool, outbuilding) that would be cash or some other loan vehicle if you wanted to borrow. The drawing shows it as unfinished. We didn't intend to finish the space right off, just have better storage and potential to finish, so there's no repercussions on the loan for not finishing. It costs $30k to have the potential to make it living space later; it'd be a fair piece more to actually finish the space, and we're not really sure we ever would. We designed the downstairs to meet all our real living needs. If finished, the attic would be used only by the people with good knees (kid/kids/me?). And it would be a rather tunnel-like space. I'm amazing myself how unenthused I am by it after a good 6-8 weeks of thinking I just had to have it. Good idea on the script for a lap pool but he's not a fan of doctors and wouldn't convey enough to a doc to get the script anyway. He's lived with the knees for years, and the back is intermittent. But-for realizing that he can't carry the baby upstairs to bed safely, we'd probably keep living as we do where he climbs the stairs exactly once a day very slowly without complaining. We've talked before about putting an infinity pool in the garage to help with his knees but since he doesn't complain it doesn't rise to the top of the to-do list.

Non of this "requires" an arch. that would be your choice. When you said, "My husband has actually completely designed the space." I made an erroneous assumption, made obvious by "we will have to move some utilities (ie: plumbing) as a result of moving the stairs, will the engineer be able to plan for that? Or does that require an architect?" However, it does sound like you are headed in the right direction. There are required parts to a formal Plan document prior to submittal for plan check review. 1st The plot Plan, which is a birds-eye view of the legal property, showing all structures.(1"=20') 2nd The Floor Plan/s are all of the walls as they exist with all doors, windows, and openings shown and all of the rooms labeled for their legal use. Since you are working on both floors, use separate sheets to indicate the existing configuration as well as the proposed changes for each floor. (1/4"=1') On a separate sheet you can detail specifics both in plan view and elevation. (1/2"=1'). 3rd Framing sections and details will take some expertise, mostly in the determination of how the existing structure is built, and how the proposed changes will affect it and any remedial action which will need to be taken. Those details will be contained in a series of documents provided by the civil eng. When these details are incorporated into the Plans, 2 copy's are returned to the eng. as a completed and assembled formal Plan Document, to which he will affix a wet stamp and two copies of his calculations, also stamped. 4th Building elevations are what you want the finished product to appear "from the street". Additionally there should be a sheet containing a complete list of specifications, IE. if you want a wall paper whose pattern is a three legged green and purple nuthatch, this is where it goes. This is where you remove, as much as possible, "assumption". All of this can be accomplished by someone with a CAD system (computer assisted drafting. You can purchase this system. There is a learning curve. Here is a link to a resource for ENG. in your area; http://www.thebluebook.com/ FYI, Eng. is an exact science, based upon assumptions. Knowing the language always helps; http://www.netfunny.com/rhf/jokes/91q2/contract.html http://www.schererbros.com/homeowners/terminology/A.php http://www.ownerbuildersolutions.com/glossary_index.htm Enjoy

June - I'm not trying to turn it into a Victorian, I just would like to understand if it's possible to improve the window aesthetics at all or would it really be throwing good money after bad. There are two houses in my neighborhood that are from 1953 (I'm assuming the windows are original from what I can tell by looking at the whole house [doesn't look like it got a 1980's "upgrade" like so many around here]). And they are not too depressing (meaning I could live with it). I'm wondering if the third house could have looked closer to the first two if it had windows with depth, sills, aprons. This third house has a positive trait (why I'm using it as an example)I don't usually see with window replacements in that it is taller (extended further down/"cut down" I believe is the term), than what I usually see. They got half way there, in my opinion. I understand the third doesn't have nearly the same in overhang as the others (which isn't my favorite anyway). But they are all roughly the same era of ranch homes, the third being representative of like half the inventory of homes here.

@plan2remodel, This is an issue about trusting your remodeler to be fair with you once you're under contract. I completely get that. Trust is something earned over time and you probably have no prior experience with any of the firms you're talking to. We do a fair number of bath remodels. Sometimes we need to replace a portion of subfloor. Unless it's a really large area, I just do it because it's not worth the cost of the paperwork or a delay in the project or a customer relations issue. One option you might propose is to include in your contract a cost allowance to replace subfloor, if needed. The allowance could state the labor rate and mark up on materials, but in a 60 SF bathroom, it's not going to involve a big cost. In any case, make sure the process for change orders requires your approval prior to execution. That way you can understand the scope involved, and question the cost if it seems unreasonable.