Thanks a lot! I was looking at similar sites, but without nearly as much material. Will see if I can find what I'm searching for then shoot her a message if I'm still empty handed. Thanks for the excellent link.

A PE will perform a detailed set of calculations for the exact application. All the codes have margin built into them based on the worse case for the conditions defined. In many cases these conditions can be changed to allow for a different answer. Wood species, wood grade, and actual loading conditions (snow, wind, seismic, structral differences from the assumed design used for the code tables, etc.) for a location can be exactly accounted for. Even a 20 PSF snow load is not used in most of Texas and the south. The fact that the tables in the IRC do not cover this case does not mean you cannot design for it. It means they saved space in the code book for more important things. Table R502.5(1) covers girder and header spans in exterior load bearing walls. It only covers #2 wood, assumes the lowest strength wood, and makes assumptions about roof type in load determination. While many (probably most) houses have gable roofs, a hip roof and a header near a corner have different loading parameters. Te code tables are designed to allow a non-engineer to use them and produce a structure that will meet the minimum code under the most pessimistic assumptions. An analysis by a PE of the exact structure and loads will need to be stamped off to be acceptable to the AHJ, but changing any of the assumptions inherent in the code tables will change the final design. The code does not cover everything, including flitch beams, various engineered wood products (I-joists, gluelams in there many flavors, etc.). The manufacturers typically provide the design services to satisfy the AHJ requirement for an engineering review and a PE stamp. Many of the early I-joist long spans had problems. The code allows 1/360 deflection. A 30 foot I-joist with this deflection moves 1 inch at mid-span and maximum load. Structurally fine, but the complaints of bouncy floors poured in. The deflection must be reduced below the code to crate a decent floor. Most quickly changed the Ârules they use. The codes do not even address 'more than minimum' requirements that can arise from the use of large ceramic tiles, stone, etc. The normal floor deflection limits are not suitable for these materials. Joist must be spaced closer, have additional height, or be stiffened in other ways to provide a stable installation base. Closer is usually not a very good solution. If you have a standard gable roof house of 1 or 2 stories with no oversize openings in bearing walls the code tables will allow you to build something without paying a PE. Change from 'standard' and you will need a PE (or architect in some places) to seal off the plans. I have a PE and perform a lot of these design reviews. A recent one was an owner who wanted 16 inch sidelights on the front door. This requires a larger header, but there was not enough height to use a plain wood header (it was heading towards 2x14 size). A 2x10 flitch beam with #8 steel neatly solved the problem for a pretty minimal cost. The AHJ will inspect to the drawing for bolt placement and jack stud requirements (3 per side), along with checking that the installation is in accordance with the drawing.

Forgot to add that Walmart has the cutest foam stamps for 27 cents each. Things like footballs, scoccer balls, images of a little girl and boy, flowers, stars, hearts, moons, pets, animals, etc. They look to be just the right size for scrapbooks and are a LOT cheaper than rubber ones. They are located in clear canister type bins in the fabric dept. Penny

Postage is postage, use them wherever you need postage. I've never had an issue. AFAIC we've been getting ripped off for a long time. Prepaying postage meant we bought the delivery of a 1st class letter and if you didn't use it for a few years shouldn't mean there's an expiration on it. It's about time they did the "forever" thing, which was done to sell more stamps anyway since people got sick of postal increases and started buying smaller amounts of stamps. I've been using the online and bank for bill-paying for years now and it's great. My bank will also send a check if they can't do electronic transfer for me so they pay the postage, check fee and envelope, rather than me. Very convenient and it's certainly a savings on postage using online. 10-15 payments per month means nearly $5-$7.50 per month just in postage, plus there's a small cost in envelope and I often tape the envelope shut for extra security, again a minimal cost but a cost nonetheless. Plus the gas and vehicle costs to take them to the mailbox or post office since I don't like putting them in the house mailbox unless I can keep an eye on it for safety. There has been too many times where kids and even not-so-kids have messed with the mail and I don't always get out and about every day. And for me it's not worth keeping 22¢ stamps around so when I need additional postage I sacrifice the cost of another stamp. In any case, I've quit sending Christmas cards, and use fax, email and instant messenger for a lot of communication so I use very few stamps these days. Even mail-order purchases are usually credit card or PayPal so my mail system use is very little and I'm very pleased about that. I got totally disgusted with the Post Office when they couldn't get a newspaper to me in less than 10-15 days so I don't want to give them any more business than necessary.