Evaluating CMU construction for cost savings?
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Construction Management Question
Comments (11)Thank you all for the replies, and the clarification on the terminology. Just to give more detail the project we are undertaking will be a pretty sizable one with 1000 sq ft two story addition, and renovation of another 500 sq ft. To clarify my original post then using the correct terminology we are definitely going to have a general contractor but we are debating between "A Cost of Work Plus a Fee" contract or a hard bid. We haven't yet reached out to general contractors yet but will be doing so shortly. Our architect is really design only, he doesn't get involved in the construction end of things other then to ensure that the plans are being followed. He would not be able to manage/schedule the construction, and my wife and I do not have the skill set or time to take it on as a full time project. I do like several aspects of the "Cost of Work plus a Fee" contract as I feel that a fixed bid can incentivize cutting corners to maximize profit and can also incentivize building in extra profit as a GC doesn't know exactly what they are going to run into at construction. However, I do like for the fixed fee that there is a balance with the competitive bidding process where you know you aren't severely overpaying. I guess where I struggle is identifying the quality/cost balance of each general contractor and the subs they use without a fixed bid. I will know the relative quality they provide by checking references and looking at past work, but I won't know their relative costs. I guess as macv pointed out you make up for that in the sub-contractor selection process and understanding all of the mark ups for the general contractor besides their overall fee. And as Thull and macv mentioned there are ways of structuring contracts to incentivize cost savings. Thank you all....See MoreEvaluating Heat Pumps and Air Handlers
Comments (20)Nonsense about oil heat adversely affecting sale of my home in my area. As I have previously explained, I live in a relatively affluent subdivision of early 1970s residences in the MD suburbs of DC. The homes built in 1970-1972 all have gas heat. In 1973 a moratorium was created preventing any new gas hookups and thus the second half of the homes all have oil heat. I do follow property values in our area quite closely and the selling prices have no apparent correlation with heating fuel type. As a retired military service member, I have bought and sold many homes - likely more that most here. Heating method, while an item of immense interest in this forum was not at the top of the list of considerations re any home my wife and I bought. Schools, yes. # BRs and # baths, location, age of home, location, commute, condition, perceived re-sale, all yes. (And likely many other considerations, including working heating. lol) I'm a bit of a TV junkie now that I'm retired. I do watch "House Hunters" and I have NEVER heard a house hunter identify heating fuel as a consideration in their search. There is a lot of bad advice given here due to not "doing the math" - all things being equal, I would prefer to have NG heat rather than oil. Cheaper operating costs, not concern about deliveries, etc. However, I have done the best I can to insulate, reduce heating set point, shift the heating burden to heat pump, and closely monitor costs. I don't have NG available, but based on the costs to bring in NG (based on the experience of a few of my neighbors that were able) it makes absolute no economic sense IN MY CASE. If you don't use very much of an expensive product, your absolute costs may not be that great and the incentive to convert may well be lessened. If you visit the roofing forum, I suspect they'll identify the roof as the most important factor effecting price... in the landscaping forum it will be the grounds, in the kitchen forum, the kitchen and bath. Heating is certainly an important concern, but we need not cry wolf about it....See MoreEvaluating window performance U value & cost savings
Comments (5)If you are interested in other resources in evaluating window performance and human comfort then the rest of this might be of interest; sorry it is such a long post. Thank you both, as I find it of interest and value to understand and then seek input from trusted professionals about window choice. @Windows on Washington I used 1,000SF in my calc just to make it easier for anyone else to do mental math to do an approximation say if they had 600SF of windows. @Ikbum_gw thanks for info. It was actually my quoted comment from Windows on Washington in an old thread on Air Infiltration performance that got me researching window performance stats and how absurd it is that AI stats are not required to be easily available to consumers. I agree that the minimum requirement of <0.3 CFM seems like way too much air leakage, and is perhaps a much bigger difference comparing window X and Y than other performance stats. In case it is of value to any one else delving into this area and evaluating their window options, I found this Lawrence Berkley Lab research study https://www.energystar.gov/sites/default/files/WindowsEnergySavingsAnalysis-LBNL.pdf on window performance/efficiency very helpful. For Northern climate zone and based on their assumed typical home (which might not closely match your own so YMMV) they found that annual energy costs were the same for a window rated at U 0.27 SHGC 0.27 AND one rated at U 0.28 SHGC 0.32 So the rule of thumb they suggest is 0.01U = 0.05 SHGC Personally I find this very helpful in comparing windows as often window X might be a bit better in U value but not what I think I want for SHGC. Here is a part of that article summary and my highlighting two windows with same annual projected energy costs as an example: And going farther if you really want some helpful and fascinating reading on window comfort is this 91 page study in a test lab attempting to understand human perceived comfort when a window is much colder (winter type condition) or much warmer (summer) than the air in the room. http://www.cbe.berkeley.edu/research/pdf_files/SR_NFRC2006_FinalReport.pdf An important take away for me personally is that people are less tolerant being next to a warm window than being next to a cold window. I will have a key sitting area within 3' of a window so the research is highly relevant to me, but perhaps many others....See Morehelp w new construction
Comments (18)We installed Marvin windows - the best - 8 ft. casement windows with custom grills. Saved some $ by not adding the grills on the sides and back. Also saved $ by making some of them stationary - meaning, they don't open. There are a few places in the house where a window doesn't need to be opened. We also went with the 16'x8' slider - It is AMAZING!!! $44k We are currently installing a standing seam metal roof. We live in a rural area and it was a huge issue finding someone to put it on. But it is gorgeous and practical. Added about $20k on to a regular shingled roof install. We had to have a 2 zone HVAC system. The house is 4036 sq ft - with a full finished basement. There was no way just one unit would be effective. Just double what a regular system would cost......See MoreUser
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