A couple of side notes before getting to my issue. 1. I'd love to get all the posters here and the OP in a room together with Nerf Guns and Whiffle Ball Bats. 2. I realize this post is 5 years old, I'm curious who's still here contributing. 3. All y'all a hoot. Now. I have a 1275 sq ft 2 bd house built in 1991. The bathrooms are both traditional lay out, 1 sink, toilet and a prefabricated fiberglass tub/shower enclosure. The original electric 49 gal water heater is still in the home and starting to experience running out of hot water 12 minutes into a shower experience. (Please note: I shave my scalp several times a week in the shower, leading to longer than usual man showers) Gas is not an option. Eventually I plan to renovate both bathrooms, add a 3rd bedroom that shares one bathroom "Jack &Jill" style with the existing jr bedroom. There are 2 adults and at the time of writing a 3 year old and a part time teenager. In the master bathroom I'm currently using a rain head attached to the existing shower arm with a cheap hardware store extension. The renovation of the master bathroom will involve giving up a portion of vanity space to have a wall hung toilet (saving space) so I can use the area the existing tub and toilet are occupying to make a very nice walk in shower with a rainhead and two body sprayers. I'm seeking tips, advice and even specific products for my venture. I'm thinking of putting the absolute largest residential grade w/h I can find (50-75 gal), I have plenty of space for one, possibly enough room for 2 smaller. My big concern after having ample water is utility cost per month. So, let the rabble rousing begin.

**What are the indoor and outdoor design temperatures used in the calculation?** Winter: outside 42 F/inside 70 F Summer: outside 97 F/inside 75 F **What are the sensible, latent, and total cooling BTU numbers?** I'm trying to attach a picture on the calculation that was done, but this is what I see Sensible Cooling Equipment Load Sizing: structure 48078 BTU, ducts 11989 BTU, equipment sensible load 61268 BTU Latent Cooling Equipment Load Sizing: Structure 494 BTU, ducts 314 BTU, equipment latent load 808BTU, equipment total load 62076 BTU Cooling Equipment Summary: sensible cooling 0 BTU, latent cooling, 0 BTU, total cooling, 0 BTU (The calculations actually WERE done by the Carrier contractor, but I'm feeling a little concerned now about them. I noticed the footnotes say the front door faces N, when it is NE. Not sure if that's a negligible difference or indicative of sloppy work.) **A temperature drop of 10-15 degrees on the bedroom supply is significant. Does the duct work travel through unconditioned space?** Yes **How much insulation is in the attic? You want at least R30. Increasing the attic insulation is going to help the temperature differential.** There is no attic space. The roof is basically right above the upstairs ceiling with maybe a foot of space between the two. There is no crawl space or access to this area unless you open up the ceiling drywall. This is where the upstairs ductwork is located. It is probably the original 1976 ductwork, 5" diameter. A camera inserted in one of the grills for a very rudimentary visual inspection showed that this main upstairs line is not in the best shape. When we settle on a contractor we were planning to try to get a more thorough inspection and expect that this ductwork should probably be replaced. I'm not really sure what our insulation options are, but the Carrier contractor (who is an approved Energy Upgrade CA contractor) seemed to be hinting that our options are expensive and limited.

I would use the full mirror. I can picture your kids being teens (if girls) and having a sleep-over where three girls could get ready with a full mirror. Though my son as a teen could spend a lot of time fussing with his hair, so maybe it's not so gender-specific. Pottery Barn has large framed mirrors like the one in your first photo for a few hundred dollars. I know they have 60", not sure about larger. But I'd get a frameless beveled mirror from a glass shop. They can cut holes to mount sconces, and I think it's a good idea to use three because you have a wide space between sinks with that style vanity. You might consider bar style sconces so that you can put them on both ends and in the middle. They're 4-5" wide and won't impede the view of someone at the sink. Side sconces provide the best lighting--no shadows fall on the face from overhead lights. Mounting lights on the mirror will also bounce the light, nice to have in a windowless room. A new look for full-length mirrors is a short mirror about 30-32" high, framed or unframed. I love this look for a long vanity. Less mirror, less cost from the glass shop!

Sorry, the pics not that great... only thing I have at this point. Cabinets will be white chrome hardware/faucets, white rectangle sinks and fantasy brown granite. Floors medium-light wood look tile planks. Hope this helps. Thanks for your thoughts.