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The Long and Happy Life of Maida Heatter 1916-2019

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4 years ago

The Long and Happy Life of Maida Heatter

Maida Heatter always had brownies in her bag. Or biscotti. Cookies. You know, the portables. She handed them out to her mailman, people she ran into on the street, new friends, old friends, Wolfgang Puck. She flung brownies filled with York Peppermint Patties off the stage at the James Beard Awards in 1998 wearing Versace and a mischievous grin. Sharing her baked goods—straight from her bag, or through her recipes, published in nine cookbooks during the 1980s and ’90s—was the whole point. A self-taught baker, she became a household name, charming audiences with her saintly halo of white hair, her foolproof layer cakes, and her real-talk recipe instructions. Her recipes went pre-internet viral and inspired many of our current queens of desserts, including Dorie Greenspan, Alice Medrich, and Christina Tosi.

Heatter passed away at 102 this week in her Florida home. For the past few years, she spent most of her day resting in bed. This spring, her final cookbook, Happiness Is Baking—a compendium of her most beloved recipes pulled together by Maida’s niece and caretaker, Connie Heatter—came out from Little, Brown. The writing is Maida’s, tightened and updated here and there from previous books, but there are no new recipes or reflections on a life long- and well-lived. Sadly, Maida didn’t even seem to know the cookbook existed. That’s what Connie told me when I spoke to her recently. She had shown Maida the bright red cover with her name in big yellow letters, but there was no recognition from the baker.

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