Full sun is not a problem for Fescue, the lack of water can kill it if drought persist. If you already have Bermuda invading it, you can let that take over. But don't expect miracles, the growing season for Bermuda in Central NC is rather short, so that can take several years. If your front yard still in good shape except for the invading Bermuda, then keep the Fescue and spray roundup on the Bermuda once it greens up in mid to late May; then re-seed with Fescue/Bluegrass in the late summer or early fall. If you don't have too much bermudagrass invading your Fescue, then you can probably dig it out and re-sod a few pieces (cheap) I hope this helps. BTW, I'm in Cary. Take care, Auteck

Since you mention the use of Kentucky Blue I'm going to assume you wish to use a 'cool season' type grass. Generally, if a type of lawn turf has problems....i.e. turns brown when water is at a premium, or tends to die out during heat spells, or some other problem that is perplexing a homeowner....the usual advice is to try to overcome the problem by planting a seed that is not affected by what troubles the one type....so, and I'm sure the seed dealer will agree, plant a combination of grass seeds so that each can give its best when times are tough on one. A good combination for cool season type grass is 40% Kentucky Blue, 30% perennial ryegrass and 30% red fescue. Combinations approaching those percentages are found anywhere and everywhere so you shouldn't have any trouble finding. Its generally agreed that before you overseed an area that has already a lawn, correct any imperfections the ground might have...i.e. fill in with topsoil any depressions, any mounds that can be rolled and thus levelled, any bare patches that are best fixed with plugs....etc etc. A toplayering of 1/2" to 1" topsoil or compost or triple mix...you decide...is laid either before, or after the scattering of the seed. Sometimes seed is administered with the fertilizer spreader...a starter fertilizer can be considered and applied with the seed. Scattering by hand is easy as long as you apply a generous amount to the area. Seed is not inexpensive....but for a good turf it is recommended that you apply the best seed you can afford...it pays dividends in the end. If you are having to buy the topsoil...and your area is large...you can trust this formulae to find out exactly how much soil you would have to purchase. If the amount is large, then buying IN BULK is the least expensive. Measure the area you intend to work...length times width... IN FEET. That gives you square feet...multiply that times the depth IN INCHES....then multiply that figure times 3....and divide by 1000. That results in the number of cubic yards of soil you have to buy to cover the area. example...if the area is 25 feet by 50 ft..equals 1250 sq ft times depth..1" = 1250 X 3 = 3750 divided by 1000 =- 3.75 cubic yards of soil. Such amount is best bought in bulk...delivered by truck to your driveway--then by wheelbarrow to the area. If the area is wanted to be leveled first, then rolling can be done. Rolling can also be done AFTER the seeding process to better put the seed into contact with the soil. Overseeding is ..for me anyway...a ritual I follow every fall. It encourages strong turf that stands up to adversity...disease and pests. Generally, if you follow a regimen of fertilizing...the high nitrogen content can speed up filling in bare spots and greening up. Going cheap on the feeding program encourages weak growth...and if winter throws a hard freeze early, it can make for spring problems. Watering is also not cheap. But again watering is necessary for the grass roots to grow strong...so the usual recommendation of 1" of water (rain notwithstanding) per week is the norm and helps grass grow lushly. Only by experimenting with how you apply water can you learn about what your lawn needs.

You're far enough north in the transition zone that a tall fescue lawn would probably stay green year-round. Maybe mix in some KBG for its spreading/self repair ability. Of course, a green lawn will be higher maintenance and cost than a brown one.

I've also seen on here that Roundup, a tiller, time and patience will also get rid of the bermuda grass. I'm pretty sure you didn't see that here. The only way I know that works to kill off bermuda is shade. You might be able to get it out with Round Up, time, Round Up, time, and Round Up. It has to be growing for the Round Up to work, so that limits you to spring, summer, and early fall to kill it. For the average home owner, seeding rye for winter green will weaken the bermuda the following year. Why? Remember the shade mentioned above? The tall rye in the spring provides enough shade to prolong the sleep time for the bermuda. In many cases the bermuda will have died back (not died out) and will be thin and weedy the rest of the season. The reason golf courses and some other sports fields overseed with rye and get away with it is they have access to an herbicide that home owners cannot buy. They kill off the rye before the bermuda awakens leaving a brown yard for a couple of weeks, but then the bermuda is not weakened. Sodded bermuda is one of the best lawns you can have. The secret to keeping bermuda immaculate is to mow at the mower's lowest setting 2x per week, water deeply and infrequently, and fertilize monthly during the growing season with a high N fertilizer like urea.