BP, that's correct. Buffalo grass will need as much light as bermuda in order to thrive. Sethramesh, with 6 hours of direct sun light, Fine Fescue (if no foot traffic) or Tall Fescue will work better than any other grass. Zoysia Shadow Turf claims it can survive on 2+ of direct sun light (I don't believe it) You can try it by buying some plugs, expect to pay top $$$ for those. Centipede will be a poor choice at your site with those light requirement, althogh Centipede does have more shade "tolerance" than Bermuda and Buffalo grass. Dchall, that bluegrass lawn looks like Tall Fescue... WAY too tall for my taste. I bet it's cut at 4 inches... The recommended mowing height for Kentucky Bluegrass is between 1.5" to 2.5" with 3" to 3 1/2" MAX during the summer months in the Transition zone. Areas with cooler/mild/wet summers can keep the height to 2.5" and down to 1.5" during the Fall/Winter. When you mow Kentucky Bluegrass higher than those recommended mowing heights, the top of the grass blades beging to lay over and turf loses density - very similar to what happens to Bermuda grass and seashore paspalum. Tall fescue has thicker and stronger blades that can easely handle 5 or even more inches before it starts to lay over. Perennial Ryegrass is very simmilar to Bluegrass in that regard.

I don't know about too stressed to fertilize but I would wait until I was sure the roots were working right. Do you see runoff when you water? If you do, then stop watering immediately and let the water soak in. Then restart in 15 minutes until you get runoff again. Cycle like that until you get an inch of water. Thank you so much for the picture. It really speaks a thousand words. Also out of curiosity, what direction were you looking when you took that picture? Please don't say north.

Before you do anything, where do you live? Zone 7 is very deceptive. For most of it, fescue is inappropriate and St Augustine should be used instead. But there are some locations in California where fescue would be perfect in zone 7. If you live in Calif, then specify where, because some parts of zone 7 in SoCal are not good for fescue.

We both know your first post was not an attempt at humor. Yes it was, you cannot read my mind. My first comment was directed at the members of the forum to quit sugar coating the facts. They know me and my since-of-humor where as you are new here and do not.. Your first paragraph has very little merit if you had read my entire initial post. Nothing had been overlooked, I stated I wasn't planting fescue this year, so there was no boat to miss. Incorrect IMO. Look at the title of your post and your comment in the initial post: That is, until somebody told me I could build a nice fescue lawn since I have a sprinkler system. They seem to think I can keep it green all summer long and still enjoy the benefits of a fescue lawn (green lawn well past the Bermuda dormancy). My lawn is already starting the transition into dormancy, so I was wondering what you people thought of my query. That leads me to believe and many others I assume from their responses that you were considering a to replace the Bermuda with Fescue. You may think I like to belittle people before offering advice but that is just your opinion not based on historical facts of my performance over the last two years. I offer no apologies, you are free to take or reject my advice, doesnt make me one bit of difference one way or the other I still don't understand why it makes no sense to kill off what I have now and seed with Yukon. Because it is a waist of time, money, and effort to do so on a project this large. What ever you have will come back unless you use soil sterilizers and remove all the sod plus a few inches of top-soil then replace it. I suspect since you said you plugged the existing Bermuda 27-years ago it was U3. It has pretty good cold tolerance; it just needs more water and fertilizer than Yukon to look nice. If maintained U3 will look better than Yukon with equal cold tolerance. You are on the right track looking at Yukon as it has pretty good cold tolerance among the common varieties. I still recommend a blend of at least two or three of the top varieties, because one will dominate and take over. It is like playing 3 numbers on a Craps Table, your chances are 300% better of winning. The top seeded varieties for cold tolerance are ranked in order for your area: Riviera SWI 1014 and 1046 Yukon Contessa Veracruz Now dont come away thinking common or seeded Bermuda varieties are the best cold tolerant of the Bermuda grasses because they are not. They are just the most inexpensive and easiest to obtain. The champs are hybrids like Ashmore, OKC 70-18, Patriot, and Aussie Green, Midlawn, and Premiere. However finding one of these is not likely in your area, you can find Patriot and OKC 70-18 south of you in Oklahoma City area sod farms and the cost are about $1.50/ft2 if you pick it up. Up to double that if delivered.