If the hood is surrounded by cabinet-like wood, or even materials like brick, one buys an "insert." These are hoods without a finished exterior. Rules about distances to combustibles in the range/cooktop installation manual have to be met.

Ah! Is that the under cabinet hood?

picture didn't attach

and another

wow! good to know!! thanks! we will leave it as is!

The picture appears to be a ceiling mounted hood installed in a dry walled furr down, which is an interesting concept. It could work as long as the minimum vertical and lateral distances from burner to wall are met.

I had to google Furr Down to make sure it was not some winter wear reference. ha.

it's beautiful but maybe for the day I move to England. thanks!

Purpleproject, are you getting that range ( or similar)? Wouldn't you do a hood that complements and enhances that statement piece ?

Waverly... we are getting a Bluestar 36" range not that one. I just liked how the hood looked enclosed. I am not so fond of hoods.

sorry to revisit. but if I buy a vent insert and liner such as the zephyr monsoon Tornado II Insert, can I then get the GC to build a plywood/drywall enclosure?

There are required clearances to flammable materials that are much greater than those shown in the photos you linked, especially for a high-output unit like a BlueStar. Yes, something could be built, but you will need MUCH wider clearances on either side and NOT plywood (or other wood) anywhere in the exclusion zone. This includes framing behind the range unless you have adequate clearance.

thanks guys! this worries me too much. we will readjust to having an exposed chimney range hood with exposed stainless steel. I don't like the under cabinet style so it was either this or not!

it's crazy how many bloggers and such do these kind of renovations without explaining the fire hazard issues. placing the unit too high would make the whole purpose of the hood moot...we need it to clean the odor and grease first and foremost and reducing the efficacy of that for a structure for aesthetics isn't worth it.

@Purpleproject, yes it is crazy. It's crazy that amateur (okay some are professional bloggers) bloggers post their head-scratching, kooky projects, pimping out themselves and their families for the sake of internet fame and free stuff.

Read your Bluestar specs. You need clearance to a combustible surfaces. 6" to horizontal combustibles. Including your rear wall. Just covering wood studs with tile won't make it non combustible. You'll need the tall stainless backguard, sold separately. Or you will need to rebuild your back wall and get rid of the wood studs inside it.

For kitchen reno's, it is always best to review the installation guides of candidate appliances to know what has to be done before they are installed. This not only influences the construction, but also possibly the selection of appliances.

thanks guys. I just finished reading the Bluestar manual. That was fun (not). anyway, it did bring up a good point about the wall behind the range being fire safe or using a SS backguard. I'm not 100% sure what all this means but at least I can badger the GC about it to make sure it's all up to snuff.

I wanted to update this thread in case anyone searches for it in the future. this was the email from Bluestar engineering team -

"
BlueStar ranges are intended to be installed with 0” clearance at the rear of the unit given con-
sideration to non-combustible surfaces.
An island trim can be installed either in an island or against a wall with zero clearance as long
as the following conditions are met. When the unit is installed in an island condition, the is-
land trim itself should be kept a minimum of 6” from combustible materials at the rear. When
the unit is installed in a zero clearance condition, non-combustible/heat resistant materials are
to be used in a vertical plane for a minimum distance of 6” below the top horizontal plane of the
unit and 6” above the top horizontal plane of the unit where the unit meets the back wall.
When a unit is installed with any other back guard in a zero clearance condition, non-
combustible/heat resistant materials are to be used in a vertical plane for a minimum distance of
6” below the top horizontal plane of the unit and at least equal in height to the back guard being
used.
The non-combustible material need not extend horizontally past the initial barriers
thickness. The initial barrier should consist of materials such as ceramic tile, cement backer
board, stainless steel (.032” Thick) or other non-combustible material. Non-combustible mate-
rials are defined as non-combustible as in the form in which the material is used and under the
conditions anticipated, the material will not aid combustion or add appreciable heat to an ambi-
ent fire or materials that are in compliance with ASTM E 136. Refer to the appropriate instal-
lation manual and/or local building code for additional information."
"

That doesn't jibe with National Fire Protection codes, or real life. If 6" of clearance to horizontal combustible objects is required, it's 6" on all sides.

Covering a combustible surface with something non combustible doesn't make the combustible surface non combustible.

It's why a metal pan sears meat. The metal isn't damaged. But it sure conducts heat to the meat. Or the chunk of wood, if you use a stovetop smoker. Those wood pieces in the smoker will actually catch on fire with the pan on high. So will your wood studs if too close to a heat source.

Repeated exposure to high temperatures causes wood's ignition temperature to lower. Over time, pyrolysis takes a wood that might ignite at 500 and lowers that temperature down. So it might ignite at 350 now.

http://www.warrenforensics.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Low_Temperature_Ignition_Wood.pdf

https://inspectapedia.com/chimneys/Pyrolysis_Definition.php