Nicole: If the end pieces I pictured above were missing, you'd be looking at an exposed cabinet style and the top and bottom rail on each end and a hole between the three. The drawer end covers the void and makes your eye continue the line from the doors upward. A flush piece in the void would have to fit perfectly, be finished matched, would not continue the line, and would therefore look stupid. You're not going to find any pictures because no one would ever go through that much work for something that's not going to look good. Here's a full size 33" apron sink properly mounted in a 36" cabinet. The distance from the cabinet end to the sink apron end will be 3" on your job, not the 1 1/2" pictured here which I admit doesn't look too bad. That sink was replaced by this short apron Elkay Quartz Luxe. The bottom of the apron now lines up with the adjacent drawer bottom, and there is virtually no cabinet face exposed which I think looks better. I made the customer find a factory painted color match trim (you provide, you agree color matches) which I installed above and flush with the top of the middle rail to fill the gap. That didn't have to fit nearly as nicely as flush side fillers would have to, because only the person reaching under the sink will ever see it.

mount, yes, I do feel the same way about ranges as well. My feeling is that, esp. with things with moving parts, you want to go as simple as possible because the more moving parts something has, the more there is to break. Simplicity is always better, IMO, when it comes to appliances. I could be completely wrong about this, but my instincts tell me that the industrial/professional types of ranges everyone seems to "need' at a cost of $10,000, or more, are probably made very, very differently for residential customers than they are for restaurants and other commercial entities. IMO, they are an enormous waste of money and are about ego and narcissism rather than about anything practical (spend $2K on a good GE Profile range and give the $8K you'd save from buying a Viking range to a charity if you have that much to spend on a stove!). In addition, those professional ranges, the real ones, are powerful, and they are because cooking in restaurants is very different than cooking at home. They have to cook very fast and large quantities, so they need a lot of heat. That is NOT the case at home, and so many of my clients have those ranges and they are TOO hot and difficult to control. In addition, most who have them barely cook and cook mac and cheese with hot dogs for their kids. That can easily be done on a regular oven! But mostly I suspect they're not made nearly like the actual professional/industrial ranges and are in fact a big waste of money. That said, you certainly don't want an eyesore for a range. I got a hand-me down from a friend who restores old homes and gave me a GE profile he pulled out of a house in Cambridge, MA. I love it. And I got lucky in that it was black with SS. My dishwasher is black, my sink is SS, and my fridge is black handle with SS door fronts, black surround. So the GE was perfect. However, ultimately, I think what you should care about with appliances is the quality and reliabilityâ¦which I also think has become very difficult to achieve. I was away today. I"ll take a pic tomorrow. Promise.

6 11/16 apron minus 7/16 thickness of the rim that will sit on top of the cabinet equals 6 1/4 inches. 6 11/16 - 7/16 = 6 1/4 6'' faux drawer front + 3/8" reveal equals 6 3/8" Assuming all of the figures given are very accurate, then you should have 1/8" space between the bottom of the sink apron and the top of the doors. Too close for comfort. So...possible remedies would be to mount the doors just a little (1/4'') lower...but that will probably not look too good as the bottom won't line up with the rest of the cabs in the run. Better option--add a little height to the top of the all the cabinets in that run...whatever you need...1/4 to 3/4'' thick boards so the sink will sit a little higher and give you the clearance that you need. (effectively, what you're doing here is increasing the '3/8" reveal) Get moulding finished to match the cabs that can be applied to cover the boards that are raising the countertop. If you're at least average height, raising the countertop just a tad shouldn't make much of any difference comfort wise. (Probably lots less expensive solution vs having a cab custom made.)

I too want to give a shout out to Kimmy for her detailed instructions. I just installed a whitehaven following them. I will add this the curve for the cutout is 4" so a 4" hole saw on your drill will give you the perfect cut then you can use your circular saw up to the holes on the sides and bottom. I don't own a jig saw so I used the same hole saw that I got to cut my butcher block with a reveal (also 4" obviously). In addition to Kimmy I want to thank Joseph for recommending Pete's sink mount. I realize most on this thread have already installed using Kohler's instructions but Pete's sink mount makes getting everything in and level super easy and you can adjust up or down with the sink in place unlike Kohler's 2x4 method. This is an FYI for anybody that comes upon this thread later. Steve - Ikea sells a kit to attach a door to a drawer that has a template to drill the holes. I realize you don't need the hardware but it might be worth it for the template. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00280755/