Issue when changing filter in water filtration system
Eddie Gornish
5 years ago
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sofaspud
5 years agoEddie Gornish
5 years agoRelated Discussions
drip system filtration with ditch water
Comments (2)Hi Cramps, Please describe your ditch water take off system and filtering system in more detail. For example, do you siphon water out of the ditch or pump it out. How big is the ditch and is it a concrete lined ditch or more of a stream? How fast does the water flow in the ditch? Where is the ditch located in relation to where it is needed (elevation difference)? Is 40, 120 in microns units? Physically describe how the filters work? Is cost a major factor in your decisions? The pressure compensator emitters are the easiest to clog because of the torture track that the water must move through to get out of the emitter. Good for preserving pressure but lousy for keeping the emitter free from clogging. How much surface area does your filter expose to the water surface? Please start with this info and forum members can discuss some improvements or alternatives. If you don't feel like answering questions to fill in the info gap, then I suggest you do some experiments. Try a short run with 40 filter and put a container under a drip emitter and record the depth over time. In a month do it again and see if there is a or decrease in depth in the container. You can do it more frequently if you like. Do the same with an 80 filter and 120 filter. At the end of your experiment cut the tube and look inside and see what got by your filters. Also have a sample of water sent for analysis to a soils lab and they can tell you the sizes of particles that you are dealing with in the stream. What ever you do please post your result or decisions back here on Garden Web. thanks. JMHO Aloha...See MoreWhirlpool Central Water Filtration System--Good? Bad?
Comments (17)Andy, Send you water to be tested by a lab. You can do a search on the web for certified water testing labs. Based on the lab report, you can make a determination on what needs to be filtered out of your current water. Since you are on City Water, you can compare the results with the Water report issued by you local water department (this report should be on their website). On the plumbing forum, post a question once you have the lab results and someone will provide some guidance. You need to build a system that fit you needs. The systems are easy to put together and replacing the filters are inexpensive for most common contaminants. Culligan and Rain soft only sell products and have a vested interest in only selling you products they make rather than what works for you. For instance, you can purchase a whole house water filtration system for chlorine and sediment for under $400 in materials depending on the flow rate that you want. Good luck!...See MoreHot water and Everpure Water Filtration System
Comments (4)As it turned out, the unit was installed between the cold water intake and the water heater. However, now I wonder about the first plumber (highly recommended by the bldg manager) who apparently didn't realize that the filter could have been part of our problem. That wasn't his only deficiency. And of course aliceinwonderland is quite right about that claim by Evenpure that it might reduce scale buildup. What nonsense. This entire experience has been particularly galling because of the incompetence of various building managers as well as the dumkopff who did the initial installaion. What we have spent on repairs is really infuriating, not to mention the time we have spent without hot water (almost a month) or a dishwasher (six weeks -- that was a year ago). Anyway, I won't work there forever and I guess I just need to not worry about it....See MorePlease help us decide on a water filtration system
Comments (2)Is the water clear coming from the tap, but gains some rusty color after sitting for a while, or does it have color immediately? A little light reading regarding options for ferrous (clear-water) iron removal: Softener: A softener with specialty resin is capable of removing dissolved iron, up to 7 ppm (mg/L) but asking a softener to remove iron at those upper limits is really pushing it. In addition, a softener will become fouled with particulate iron, so if you iron is particulate rather than dissolved, a softener is not a good option for you. Oxidation/Filtration: An oxidizer such as ozone, air, or chlorine may be used to react with the iron and force it to become particulate iron that can then be removed via filtration. A typical setup would involve the oxidizing unit, a holding tank, then a media filter. This type of system works quite well, but takes some expertise in sizing - you would want a water treatment pro that you trust to help you with this option. Oxidizing filtration media: This type of treatment consists of a sealed tank filled with one of several media. Water passes through and is oxidized and filtered by the media. These are relatively easy to operate and what I would recommend for the average homeowner. There are several different media that can be used: manganese greensand: water runs through for treatment. The media must be regenerated with potassium permanganate. Care must be taken with dealing with potassium permanganate as it readily dies organic material, such as your skin, a purple-brown color. Some people are quite comfortable dealing with the chemical; others are not. Synthetic greensand: This is essentially the same as option (a) but consists of a coating of greensand on a silica sand core so does not require as much backwash flow. Service flow rate is 2 - 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash flow rate is 12 gpm/sqft. birm: This media acts as a catalyst to force oxidation of iron. While it does not need to be regenerated, it does need fairly high dissolved oxygen in the water. If your water does not have adequate dissolved oxygen (and it probably doesn't since it is well water), air injection would be necessary prior to the birm. Additionally, birm requires a minimum pH of 6.8.. Service flow rate is 3.5 - 5.0 gpm per sqft. Backwash flow rate is 11 - 20 gpm, depending upon water temperatures and desired bed expansion. pyrolox: an ore that oxidizes then filters the iron out. It does not need regeneration, but needs to be backwashed (to rinse out the iron) at a high rate. pH range is 6.5 - 9.0. This type of filter works very well, but backwash is critical. Service flow rate is 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash is 25-30 gpm/sqft. Backwash daily. Terminox: Similar to Pyrolox, but a proprietary formula . It does not require as much backwash flow rate and is more resistance to a low pH. The particulars are only available from the company that sells it. Backwash daily. Filox: Also similar to Pyrolox. pH range 5.0 - 9.0.......See Morekaseki
5 years agoEddie Gornish
5 years agovinmarks
5 years agosofaspud
5 years agoEddie Gornish
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