Bmore's second pic shows how the materials you mention would look together. It shows dark to me... I think with a lighter counter and bs, it would look nicer. You own the cork and it is pretty and functional. Our experience with Marmoleum was and continues to be not good. I'd try not to panic and work with what you have. The style of cork you chose is pretty and there any many ways you can use it. We had 5 years to plan (not on purpose, lol) and our plans changed dramatically right up until the final moments. I even changed the size of 2 cabs at the moment of ordering without having any inkling that morning when I woke up. It hit me from out of the blue and I am glad I changed it as I did. I didn't even discuss it with dh and just made an executive decision on the spot, lol Some of what we changed is the 100% better choice and some we could have gone the other way and been probably just as good. The hard part is you get get everything into just one kitchen. I'd have been happy with several counter choices, paint colors and bs looks. The layout was the best we could do at the time, though I might tweak a tiny bit more now that we live with it. You don't have to aim for perfection as it is a room that you cook and possibly eat in, at the end of the day. It is not brain surgery and your life won't be radically different no matter which cabs or counters you choose. Try not to pressure yourself so much ;)

Have you looked at Alabaster? Different rooms are going to show differently with lighting by day then by night. Best thing to do is select a couple of the colors you favor and get a couple of poster board cut in to 4's and leave the outer edge of the poster board white so your eyes don't play tricks on you. That is really the only way you will know if it turns green, blue or other in your particular space. I do love Shoji White. Shoji White is the perfect warm white with a gray undertone; it looks beautiful with wood or metal finishes. Yet, you need to see how it looks in your space even though it's under construction. If you have lighting in then you can see your picks placed on a few different walls so you know they don't change AM to PM lights on and off. Modern Gray is very pretty and if you find it a hint too dark given SW sells larger sample cans you can have them lighten it 25% (25% will be a very, very little bit lighter or you can do 50%) after testing it by taking the can back to them and telling them to lighten it. Concerned it might be cold, but do love the color. If you google Modern Gray by SW you will see it changes a lot in different rooms.

Thank you all for your comments. hollybar, I wanted to powder coat the stove because I think a mint green stove would look cute in a 1950s kitchen, and because it's not very expensive. I hope that my current tenants (who have lived there for less than a month) enjoy living in the house and stay for several years. My husband wasn't very excited about mint green, and it sounds like nobody here is either, so I'll probably stick with the more universally appealing white. I hadn't considered burn marks, but the tables were a DIY project meant to last 5-10 years until we get around to changing the window and adding cabinets on that side of the kitchen. The hickory for the butcher block tops only cost $50, and hopefully I can turn them over or plane them between tenants if they are burnt. I agree with you that table height looks wrong next to the window, but it's done now and there is no way my husband could be prevailed upon to change it!

Neutral colors are a mix of different colors, so depending on what you have next to your neutral the neutral color appears to pink or blue or green or yellow. It really isn't a foreign concept to most women, we just haven't thought about paint color the same way we look at makeup and clothing. My sister has an olive skin tone and medium brown hair, I have an ivory skin tone and dark hair and my sister in law has blond hair, blue eyes and a fair golden skin tone. We don't look good in the same colors. Your home is full of colors. What looks good next to my purples and purple reds and smokey teals won't look good next to my sister's greens and golds and orange reds or next to my sister in law's cornflower blue, peach and butter yellows. We each had to pick neutrals that went with the decor and flooring and woods that fill our home. Can you imagine my purples, reds and teals with a moss green neutral a yellow tan or is it better with a taupe that has slightly purple undertones? Below is a demonstration of how neutrals can look very different based on the colors around them. Both sections have one color in the center of each block. It is the same color in each block all the way across the page, yet the color appears more pink or green or yellow or blue depending on the color next to it. If edgecomb gray is picking up purple you probably have yellow undertones around it. Edgecomb gray is a pretty solid neutral with just a hair more pink and less green than revere pewter. Baby Fawn or tapestry beige may work nicely - just a bit less pink/purple undertones and a hair more yellow. I would recommend that you pick your flooring before picking the paint color because it could also change the perceived wall color. If you can gather together samples of the colors that are staying and lay them out on a white sheet in natural daylight (I like to do this outside on a clear day) and look at a bunch of neutral swatches next to the colors you will start seeing the patterns. More yellow looks better or grayer looks better a little more green looks better.