Hi there, You just described one of my hillsides here in the sf bay area, right down to the old Montery Pine trees and horrible packed clay soil underneath that few things will grow in, and a previous owner who actually thought ICE PLANT would survive on a full-western exposure sloped hill. So we have a couple patches of this ice plant that clings to the hill, blooms a couple weeks a year, and the rest of it annual dry grasses (read: weeds) that either get weed whacked or pulled by hand in the spring after the risk of a mudslide is past. (Our hill isn't that big so hand weeding isn't impossible.) We just repaired the retaining wall for this hill, which means our next project will be to finally plant something there to keep the soil from eroding that won't need to get whacked each spring. Our landscaper recommended 2 plants: manzanita creeper, and a low-creeping ceanothus, I think it's called Carmel something. I think both are drought tolerant and natives. And low to the ground. Another thing that grows well on our hill but seems to do better when it has partial shade is vinca minor. It grows really well in moderately shaded areas. It's also deer proof. And finally, one thing that grows well here, even right below the pine tree right under where all the pine needles fall, is juniper. It's not as pretty, but it sure as heck holds the hill. Have you gone to your local independent nursery? Tell them what you're working with in terms of your slope and soil and that you need a good ground cover... they'll steer you to something(s) that will grow well in your own little microclimate. Take advantage of their expertise, and then once you have the names of the plants you want you can start sourcing them out at the best prices. Good luck, -kristi

I can assure you that pine needles change the pH of soil so very very little and over such a long time, that they should never be considered a factor. The shade, of course, is a problem. Without plenty of direct sun, this tree is having even more problems manufacturing energy. In your climate, I'd guess that your tree was watered very little by your neighbor's accidental over sprays from their irrigation system (did I guess right?) and went into decline after three years of the heat and dry climate. It can take quite a bit of time for a healthy woody plant to show signs of severe stress. First, the roots stop making new roots....then the plant will typically try to recycle stored energy reserves into keeping roots and the rest of the plant alive. After those reserves are depleted, the plants has to get rid of top portions, bit by bit. This is purely speculation, mind you. But without more information, all we can go by is what you've told us and a tiny bit of understanding about your climate. If you live in a part of Arizona that receives plenty of natural rainfall, then my theory can be tossed out.

Mat, yeah I have 2018 and 2019 to write up. I have all my notes. Just have to find time. I checked out Pepiniere casse noisette website. They do not list their rootstocks anywhere that I can find. What rootstocks are your pears, peaches, apricots on? Honestly, a lot of what they are selling, at least in apricots, peach, nectarines seem to me to be VERY marginal for their climate. In many case they mention useful for growing in pots but if that is the case how are they propagating for sale? I don't want to disparage them without information but my impression is they might be reselling . You absolutely need to be buying based upon root-stock. For apples I am not only buying on Bud118 as it has best cold hardiness and is vigorus for our short seasons - Bud9 is just too slow. Train and prune to keep the size you want. Pears on OHxF87 or 97 and prune/train. I have found PAW-PAWs to be marginal in 4b - still 3' tall after 5+ years. Blueberries don't like my soil so Haskasps and Currants are much better. You have better options than Indigo Gem, Aurora is good though. Pink Lemonade is like a zone 5/6 plant, I see little chance of it surviving. Both Whiffletree and vigneschezsoi are good options. Be aware that a 1-2 year old bare root grape vine will bear fruit 1-2 years faster than the same year rooted cuttings you will get from vigneschezsoi. If you are only buying a couple might want to spend a couple extra $$ to get fruit a whole year or 2 earlier. Somerset and Trolhaugen are good. Had a couple Brianna this year, not enough to really say. Get Bluebell as well. I suggest 10-15' between vines. Can go closer but I am of the hack back 90% every year and then let grow. Trollhaugen can put out 12-15' of growth in 1 year alone - plant closer and you have to keep on top of canopy thinning to avoid overgrowth. Apples and pears will benefit from bagging with ziplocs. Grapes I bag with Organza bags when starting to turn color. So far I am loosing 99% of stone fruit (plums) to plum curlico and the rest to birds/racoons (can't bag plums - they rot). All peaches die. Trying apricots but no fruit yet. Don't get too caught up on types of fruit. Buy something disease resistant on a hardy, vigorus rootstock then topwork as you get enough branch structure. You will then be able to test fruit to see what you like or not within 3 years of grafting. My crabapple is now up to 65+ different apples grafted to it.

I have contacted probably 10 companies in Atlanta and only 2 have called back. I have done this twice. The price is accurate. It appears we would spend that much. The two that have given quotes have different ideas on how it would be installed. *So far the old landscaper that installed the last sod installed a small drain and said that we didn't have an issue because the water drained out within a 24 hour period. *The first turf installer said that she would just have a lot of decomposed granite laid down and the water would just run under the layer and drain out fine. *The second said he would install a larger drain and then a bed around the drain to create a dry bed area. Obviously, I don't mind a little grading for the water but I did want it to be as flat as possible. The water is worse now. My husband says that it has washed a lot over the winter causing more issues. We just aren't sure how to repair it all. Seems like everyone has a different solution and we aren't sure who to believe. We have at this point considered installing a french drain ourselves and then putting a sod back in. I wonder if the dry well would be easier to install or work better than a french drain? The turf, while expensive, would solve the dog bringing in dirt and grass. This would be ideal but if I can't get more quotes I don't feel comfortable choosing that option since the first two are completely different in opinion on how to install it.