I just put down a deposit on the new Asko compact model W6424 which replaces the discontinued W6222. I don't expect to take delivery for at least a month but will write a review in the future. According to the specs on Asko's web site, the dBA level for the wash cycle is 54 and 75 for the spin cycle. The main difference between the 6222 and the new model is that the drop-down door on the washer has been eliminated. But the 6424 has the 24-hour delay start feature which is something I wanted. Incidentally, Asko's web site indicated that the 6222 had this feature, but it's an error that I brought to their attention. I saw the 6424 at a home show recently and talked to the regional distributor. He said that the new model has a slightly larger capacity than the 6222, and then went into a discussion about differences in the advertised capacities and the real capacities. Without mentioning the name of a competitor's compact model (he was talking about the Bosch compact) he said their advertised capacity of 3.4 cubic ft. is misleading and for a true apples-to-apples comparison to check the Energy Star web site. Below is a link; click on "Qualified Clothes Washers" on the right hand side for an excel spreadsheet comparing all current washers. I hope this is is helpful. Here is a link that might be useful: Washer comparisons on Energy Star web site

Hi Miami Beach The washer is 120V. The different model numbers seem to just be newer versions - but the specs on the latest versions seem indentical. We are happy with the washer. It does NOT have an internal water heater - so you will have to be sure that the water reaching the washer is hot. I'm thinking of adding a simple instant water heater, about $200 like the kind commonly used under a kitchen sink - to make sure that washer always draws hot water when it wants to. Right now - I tend to just run a nearby tap prior to wanting a hot water fill. The washing machine seems to wash quite a bit better than our old top loader did. It's not the quiestest washing machine - but it is hardly a bothersome noise either. The sounds are less "boomy" i.e. less "bass" than what a top loader would produce - likely due to less volume of water or mass. Apparently the Maytag branded version has automatic temperature control on some water temp settings - which means is basically runs water down the drain for you - until it gets hot - then fills with water. Personally, I prefer my idea to install an adjacent, simple, easy, electric instant water heater. They maytag version was recalled and ultimately discontinued in Canada, as for some reason, Maytag's version had problems with potential fires from the motor - did not control itself as well. As a fix - Maytag simply sent people GFI outlets?? This according the web - and a good service tech. Speaking of service tech - my complaint about the pair would be about the dryer - not the washing machine. The dryer is slower - but I expect this of a compact dryer. It also has a very tiny heating element. The plus - it never gets too hot, so less damage possible to your clothes. My real complaint about the dryer is that the sensor simply does not work right. I set it to "damp dry" - the least dry setting, and the dryer still completely dries out the clothes - and keeps drying for about 20 minutes after the clothes are already completely dry. I have had the first dryer completely replaced, the second dryer a sensor replaced all under warranty - but they continue to act the same. Serivce tech who was over told me they use inferior sensors in the asian machines - more of a temperature sensor than a proper humidty sensor. Now with a reno going on - they dryer is in an unheated room - temperatures around 44 to 55 Farenheit - so perhaps when it is back at normal room temp it will be okay. Since we got the pair for such a ridiculously good deal - we have decided to live with it if need to - and probably switch to a manual timed dry to prevent over drying. Samsung customer service in Canada has been very good - they have been quite willing to address the problem - a cuple times - even though so far - no success. We'll have to wait and see when the room temperatures are back to normal. Our prior bottom of the line GE full size dryer, was able to accurately dry clothes, even in these lower room temperatures. As to the size of the machine - we can pack as much or more than we could is our extra large old Kenmore top loader - so no concerns there. The king size front load machines are quite unnecessary. They have only become so popular because customers IMO in North America, can't seem to grasp the concept that a front loader really does have a lot more room inside than what LOOKS like a comparable sized top loader. Good luck!

I understand your frustration over 2 inches and sympathize. I had a wall reconstructed with the studs sideways just to give me 2 extra inches and I have a bathroom closet that does not have any sheetrock inside, I used thin bead-board paneling just for the little bit of extra space. You might want to take the dryer down and see if you can have a hard, smooth, flat vent put in the original vents place. The metal vent should have less depth than the plastic tubing. For fire safety and efficiency it is usually recommend that the corrugated flexible aluminum and plastic vents be replaced with smooth metal vents. If you still need a little more room for the door I would consider removing the sheetrock if it is an interior wall and pushing the dryer back into the wall cavity. Good luck with however you solve this problem.

Sarah, no worries at all! Believe me, I belabored this myself. You're exactly right. The units could move back in my setup. In my photo above that says "see the hose back there," it's showing the hose not entirely tucked into the space that is designed for it. So Miele has correct dimensions, and that drawing is exactly as they are built. The thing is that I put the box with plumbing on the right (as you're looking at the doors of the machines,) and I believe it's a shorter route to put them on the left. See the Miele drawing of the back of the machine and that will make more sense. I was going to ask you anyway, since you're space is tight but you can move a wall, where do you want the shutoff to be? I remember you said you really needed a plumber/contractor to work it all out, so I wonder if you have found one. Truth be told, you'll be able to work it all out in terms of the dimensions, but knowing where your existing electrical and water supply/drain are will be necessary. I think I told you before that I was sold on the Miele because there's no issue for access when maintaining the machines. Whirlpool evidently had the brilliant idea to place the lint clean-out in the back for their HP dryer, which means paying a tech at least 2X per year to pull the thing out just to clean it. Anyway... Also remember you're referencing in your first image the requirements for putting them in a closet. If you're not doing that, don't worry. And if you need more photos of the setup I have, please don't hesitate to ask. As I hear the laundry humming now, I think about all the questions I had before making the leap. It was a lot of work, and certainly expense too, but it's all worth it, and I hope it will be for you as well :-) p.s. Do you have a local dealer? That might help your questions. I asked mine to stop by while we were in construction, which he gladly did. In retrospect, I should have asked earlier. Those are the people who will be installing and servicing (hopefully not) those machines. And yes they're pricey....you do get some extra help for that. Good luck and keep me posted.