Looking @ a home in Colorado. Chime in & critique!
nicole___
6 years ago
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Help please! JM for Colorado?
Comments (22)Hi Christina & David! Sorry, I don't know anyone on the DBG horticulture staff. You might want to stop in the Library first (or call them in advance)--the head librarian (Deb) is very helpful. There used to be a gentleman named George Brinkmann, a retired horticulturist with many years of experience in this region, who held public "office hours" in the library a couple of days a week on Tues & Thurs early in the afternoon. However, I think he had some health problems and had to give that up last year, but maybe he's returned, or else maybe they've found a replacement for him. Other than those people, you might just get lucky and run into somebody knowledgeable about maples while you're in the gardens near those plants. I meant to mention before that my garden soil tests as very close to neutral Ph. I have heard the statement that soils here are quite alkaline, but I think that's a generalization. In addition, I personally favor making moderate amendments with peat and compost to tip things a bit more toward acidity if that's favorable for the plant. Almost any plant's roots will eventually spread into "native soil" but I'd rather the new plant be a little happier when it's first getting established, and I don't think I overdo the amendments. (I know there are other "camps" on this issue.) Yes, I'm going to take that magnolia back to Tagawa and get a refund. I'm not sure how they can sell trees at 50% off and still give a year's guarantee, unless many people don't bother claiming their refunds; I think they do ask you to bring them the dead tree! BTW, I'm sure there are various other places that sell JMs near here, and at more attractive prices--esp. "big box" stores, but they're less likely to have the unusual we sometimes need and crave. I'm fascinated by microclimates myself, but unfortunately I've been able to find very little written about the subject. From what I've been able to gather, there seem to be two aspects to plant hardiness. The easier one to deal with, probably, is the root zone temperature environment. I've read that damage starts to occur there at temps lower than 28 F. A good mulch layer can protect against this potential damage, and a nice layer of snow can do even better. However, cold air temperatures below some point will damage stems and branches, the point depending on the hardiness of the species. I think that's why some marginally-hardy trees are sometimes referred to as "stump-sprouts"--most of the above-ground parts of the plant die but the root system doesn't (at least for a number of years). Of course dessication is a separate problem for above-ground plant parts, especially in this sunny-winter climate. Other than the most general principles and trial-and-error, it seems difficult to predict microclimates. There are so many factors involved besides topography. For example,the influence of a building to the north of a plant may be very different depending on the building's height, mass, color (solar absorption) and configuration. Also, if one is depending on stored solar heat being radiated at night from a building face, it will make a big difference whether the days following the initial cold wave are sunny or cloudy, still or windy. Another aspect of the problem is how far away the influence of a building is felt and how fast the influence drops off with distance. I know of a student who is investigating this question at the U. of Denver near some of the larger buildings on the campus, but I haven't heard any of the findings yet. Christina, if you go, I'd like to hear your reaction to the various maples at the DBG!...See MorePlease critique this floor plan by Max Fulbright
Comments (3)It's a very pretty plan! But the kitchen could use some work and the dining room looks a little small. Are you sure you want to pay for stairs and all the extra living space on 2nd floor, just for a loft? If you eliminate the bedrooms, your roof lines sound like they would be changing. And where is the 4' you plan to add to the great room going to go in the front of the house? Bigger foyer? Have you considered taking these plans in as a starting point and having someone draw up a new home plan....just for you? It might be better in the long run. Also think about the kitchen layout (which could be better) not to mention the corner range, the angled island and what looks like sharp corners. My hips hurt just looking at that kitchen! Sorry, but I'd be banging into those island corners all the time :) My advice...take this plan over to the kitchen forum, before you do anything else....See More95% done with ~6000sqft plan - please critique
Comments (115)I would also consider a large storage closet somewhere for Christmas decorations. (Maybe I am projecting!) but I love having a large tree / trees, lots of decorations, etc - and it's nice to have some dedicated space. Storage seems to be a little lacking here. I agree that -- except in the kitchen, where the storage is ample and just needs tweaking -- storage could be improved significantly. Also consider making those baths have a shower only instead of a tub. No one take baths after a while and having a glass walled shower with a flat floor (or even zero threshold) eakesthe showering experience so much nicer. Eh, I don't know. The bathtubs in my house get a pretty good workout. With so many bathrooms "needed", I'd vote for making some of them shower-only and others shower-over-tub. If one kid ends up being a bathtub kid, you switch rooms around so he gets that bathroom. The bigger problem, though, with the secondary bathrooms is that they're all minimal in size. None of them have any storage space -- not even space for a hamper. I'd give up some hallway space for better bathrooms; I'd rather see a jack-and-jill or a hall bath with a comfortable amount of space ... rather than a minimal bath for every bedroom. Overall, I think that the house focuses more on the show features than it does on improving the lives of it's occupants. Definite a show house, not a place built for comfort or function. I don't want to finish the basement, there's plenty of space already. I don't live in the land of basements, so I feel somewhat out of my element commenting on them, but since the OP says he's building this oversized house so as to be prepared for the occasional family gathering ... it seems to me that a basement would be a sensible choice. It could be closed off when not being used. Baths - I've been torn on this. I drew drop-in acrylic tubs for the kids because I didn't want to drop $$ on more tiled/glass showers just for the kids. Might ditch the tub and just do a nicer stand-up unit though. The Guest Room bath is drawn with a stand-up acrylic shower - haven't brought myself to put a full tile/glass shower here because in my head it would rarely get used. This makes no sense. This is a multi-million dollar house, but you're going to cheap out on tile? I just still think there is extra backlash on my design because the garage is ridiculous for other parts of the country (while it's normal here) The garage is part of it, but I really do find it hard to believe that the average person in your part of the country has a 6-car garage. I'm sure that's super high-end for anywhere. Even if you do decide you want to build a garage this big, you're ignoring some pretty important details: This giant garage is blocking natural light, and it's eating up space on a modest-sized lot. The idea of a separate building makes sense. Use of garage lifts might make sense. If you do think I'm battling too many architectural styles (all I was going for was a Queen Anne/Traditional blend), I'll also make an effort to shy away from a Queen Anne look so that's less dramatic. You should stick with the look you like. Queen Anne style isn't the problem with the exterior; rather, the problem is that the exterior just has SO MUCH going on. It's overly busy. There's nowhere for the eye to rest -- you've heard the "less is more" thing; this is a perfect example. Multiple focal points fight with one another. on the showers - don't get me wrong. The reason I was avoiding tile/glass for kids because they're such a pita to clean. I have a large one now. Periodic grout sealing, unavoidable mildew/mold growing in corners, glass door that is impossible to keep clean... I love it, but I wasn't too enthusiastic about keeping 3 of them clean and current every week. It's not the $ part, I just didn't think it would be wise to do multiple tiled showers for kids. So you're already concerned about upkeep of this giant house. This is a hint that it's too much. I've often seen that one of the main tenets of "good" home building design is to reduce room complexity. This will reduce exterior wall complexity and carry into reducing roof complexity. Agreed. Here's a quick layout of these same rooms ... as a center-hall traditional. Look how the wasted space disappears. Look how the rooms are better connected. The stair hall could still be large and gracious, with a showstopper of a staircase. Also this plan costs nowhere near $2mil to build in my area, not in a big city. But I think you're getting the wrong idea on this topic Honestly, I live in one of the lowest cost of living spots in the country (and in a rural area) ... but I don't think this house could be built for two million here. Even with acrylic showers. You're talking about two full floors plus a basement, including five bathrooms and a large kitchen and an oversized garage. Fancy ceilings, French doors, bump-outs, and more. And the rotunda itself will be over-the-top expensive. You know what they say about curved items in a house? They're shaped like a money sign....See Morecritique my "peanut butter and jelly sandwich" floorplan
Comments (11)Thanks for replying! Yeah, that downstairs bathroom is awkward. It's 4ft wide, which I'm not even sure is up to code, but I've seen smaller ones in my life. What I was imagining is that the shower would have a curtain rather than a door and you could walk past the toilet straight into the shower. I think that shower would rarely be used. Maybe if a kid was a huge mess and I didn't want them to track the mess up the stairs, or if hubby waits until 5 minutes before we have to leave to take a shower ( he does that) and the kids are occupying the upstairs. Also, if someone in the family is no longer able to use stairs or we have an aging parent live with us for a time, I thought we could use the office for a tiny temporary bedroom and the downstairs bathroom would be adequate for them. I was also thinking just today that if someone was residing in that room due to mobility issues, it would be great to have a door directly into the bathroom. Like 2 doors to the bathroom on opposite walls, one of which would be locked most of the time. Also... Next to the downstairs shower is a 3ft x 1ft black space. It continues up to the second floor next to the toilet. I don't know if it would work because I am certainly not a plumber, but that is where I imagined the wood stove pipe, shower fan exhaust, and plumbing being put. As it is a wood stove it doesn't need a real brick chimney, but I would put a fake chimney surround on the roof....See Morenicole___
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